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Tool Vevor Drill Bit Sharpener Improved

Tool
I never noticed before but ZFZL store for some reason separated my 5 collets into 2 parcels WTF?

Parcel 1 arrived today. Parcel 2 appears to be lost and stuck at some airport in China... likely because it is such a small package. Maybe it fell behind something, or off a conveyor, or whatever. But why the hell not ship it as one parcel?

So I now have a ER20 collet in 1mm. Boy is that a small and one ER25 collet in 15mm

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I got a a shipping update, seems some of my collets are due to arrive today.

Mine are months away. I think they are going via the Panama Canal......

Love your model. Is that really how the motor is mounted?

FINALLY GOT MY STONE SCREW LOOSE! I bent the Allen key with my fingers first, then got my small M12 impact driver out with an adapter. Took an hour of brappp a pappp pappp, brappp a pappp pappp, brappp a pappp pappp, and then just suddenly it was off! I feared I was gunna be drilling out the screw. Holy Moses! Yes, it is a regular thread, the stone turns counter clockwise, and it is counter clockwise to remove.

Edit - I should add that it has a custom arbour on the motor shaft that is retained with 3 set screws. So it should be possible to make arbours for other stones.

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Mine are months away. I think they are going via the Panama Canal......

Love your model. Is that really how the motor is mounted?

FINALLY GOT MY STONE SCREW LOOSE! I bent the Allen key with my fingers first, then got my small M12 impact driver out with an adapter. Took an hour of brappp a pappp pappp, brappp a pappp pappp, brappp a pappp pappp, and then just suddenly it was off! I feared I was gunna be drilling out the screw. Holy Moses! Yes, it is a regular thread, the stone turns counter clockwise, and it is counter clockwise to remove.

Edit - I should add that it has a custom arbour on the motor shaft that is retained with 3 set screws. So it should be possible to make arbours for other stones.

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Oh yes, we can definitely make a custom hub/arbor and mount any wheel we please to the motor. This is why I wanted to buy another one.

but damn I modeled the hub with only two grub screws. revision required to the hub and motor shaft
 
but damn I modeled the hub with only two grub screws. revision required to the hub and motor shaft

I was looking to see if we could cut flats for a wrench. I literally bent a 5mm Allen key trying to undo that keeper screw.

Do we know if there are detents for the arbour screws? If not, removing the arbour might mess up the wheel position.

In my mind's eye I was seeing various plates to allow custom angles in variable planes. I started to look at endmill geometry but the nursing mafia I'm married to figured out I was out in the shop alone and that was that for getting anything else done.
 
I modeled up the grinding seat..

I'm pretty sure that I have the right anglular offsets and such, but I think they have made the 90 degree stops differently than I have. I'' change what i've done later.

They use a 35mm ID and 47mm OD bearing 6807-2RS with the tool holder pressed into the ID.

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You have mentioned suffering from arthritis before, and I have this issue as well. Having metal shoulders put in was a wonderful thing and lowered the inflammation and pain in other areas of my body. I wish you the best in coping with this.
I'm following along and saving this info to a PDF file. I do appreciate all your work and investigating on this. Once the designs are proven would it be possible to make the printer files available to us for a price? My son has a 3Dprinter and he could print a model for me.
 
You have mentioned suffering from arthritis before, and I have this issue as well. Having metal shoulders put in was a wonderful thing and lowered the inflammation and pain in other areas of my body. I wish you the best in coping with this.
I'm following along and saving this info to a PDF file. I do appreciate all your work and investigating on this. Once the designs are proven would it be possible to make the printer files available to us for a price? My son has a 3Dprinter and he could print a model for me.

Thanks for the well wishes surrounding my health. Multiple joint replacement surgeries are not an option for me sadly.

I don't sell files, I make them available for free. I'll email files to anyone who wants to help prototype parts up until we have proven files. Then I'll make them available on thingiverse and other sites. The same for the 2D drawing files. I may make

That said, I plan to make the final parts in metal where there are strength and wear issues.

I may make adjustment screws and locator pins in multiples when I make mine and sell sets for a nominal fee to people who don't have lathes and who plan to 3D print parts.
 
This is how I elected to limit the range of motion on the grinding seat and some of how I modeled the part (for the benefit of @Susquatch ).

I believe the manufacturer intended to allow a rotational travel between 0 to 45 degrees. I may very well be wrong. Perhaps others can examine their grinding seat and see what they think?


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I've elected to use a 5mm pin set in the tool insert as a stop.

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The tool insert in held in the base by the press fit bearing. Show here pressed on out of order, but you should get the gist of things.

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The base with milled slot to allow the 45 degrees of travel, and stop pin which is fixed into the tool insert.

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I don't think the factory has a good alignment technique for press fitting the bearing, or their stop mechanism is poorly designed/made, since my grinding seat has an imperfect alignment.


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I had to guesstimate a couple of criteria (by sketching a section drawing of the part) based on how and what I could measure at home without proper metrology tools other than my calipers.

I wanted to get the vertical offset angle thru the bore as precise as possible not knowing how critical this angle is. I measured the offset of the bore where it exits the protruding shaft on the bearing side. Shown circled below.

On my grinding seat I thought these were 4.5mm on top, and 2.5mm on the bottom, or a 1mm offset from center. The tricky part for me was to find out what angle that offset resulted in. I also measured the total depth of the insert from the thickest flat portion of the flange to the end of the shaft section.

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I used the dimensions to lay out a section drawing similar to what is shown above. From there I extruded the solid tool insert part perpendicular to the base and the width of the full width dimensions.

Then I cut the offset angle out of a portion of the flange. The green section remains perpendicular to the base while the red section is the offset. I did this by selecting that area of the sketch and extruding a cut thru the existing part.


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Then I cut out the 30mm slot thru the flange at the same angular offset as is on the face. I did this by selecting that section of the sketch and extruding it thru the part horizontally.

Only now did I have a reference to accurately draw and extrude a bore thru the tool holder. I selected the face of the cut out slot, and drew construction lines to find the center of the face. I then drew 28mm circle on the face and extruded the hole to create the bore thru the part at the correct offset angle.

Only one thing bothers me. The thinnest section of the flange at the bottom seems bigger than the actual measured part on my part. Everything else seems correct as far as I can tell.

Here is what my offset angle is... I'm thinking maybe that is 2.5 degrees in the manufacturer's design? I wont need to know for sure until I decide to make a grinding seat in ER40 size, or make more seats to use in end mill sharpener.

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My ER25 chuck arrived today...

Best packaged shipment I've ever received. It was a little pricier than I'd like but it is good to see where the money went.

Silky smooth threading.

It fits my grinding tool holders, a little snug going in then fine. I'm sure it will wear in a bit in use or when I buff the chamfers a bit

All four sides were like this, with a shipping label from local logistics company stuck over top on one side.

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Perfectly fitted foam padding.

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swaddled in bed and wrapped in a blankie

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One thing I have wondered about is the bearing. At the slow rotation and relatively stress free operation this goes through, why not have just a snug metal bore? Skip the bearing....I mean, it looks groovy and all that but what does it accomplish?
 
Slowly as I have time the model grows

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reality check, I modeled the part independently and then positioned it to align with the mounting holes in the base plate... and the result is this:

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here is the alignment, the pointer is 118 degrees..


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Seems to be perfectly centered. But the grinding seat will crash against the vertical motor mount where it has been extended... so I need to trim that back.
 

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The degree scale on the grinding seat doesn't match the actual scale...

I think I am right, maybe it is just the imaging that is off? I can test this...

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Mine at 90 degree angle looks correct... looks like the bit needs more projection. But I can see an issue. This is 14mm drill bit.

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Wider bits will need a deeper wheel to grind at 90 degrees. Time to check every other setting, but I expect the same
 
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When you place the drill bit in the collet holder into the sharpening fixture, the bit moves in a eccentric path around the sharpening stone.
This path is restricted and you can not do a full 360 degree arc. If you could this would produce an offset cone. When you flip the holder over to continue the operation on the other side of the bit this would form a second offset cone. I'm guessing the points of these cones is farther out then the tip of the drill bit.


From the article on the Quorn.
"Standard conical sharpening produces a point angle of 118 degrees, but it's not a cone. The actual tip is a straight line when viewed end-on, and an arc when viewed from the side. This is called the "chisel edge" This is an artifact of the sharpening process and is formed by the intersection of two conical sections."
 
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