Jswain's active projects

[Susquatch]

Vise will also have to move over 2-3" and I'm thinking I'll permanently leave the vise off to the side so when I put the rotary table on in the future I don't have to mess with the vise. Won't hurt to put a little wear in the ways on the side either

I leave my vise in the center and only put my rotary table on the left side when I use it. I prefer not to ever move my.vise.

But your comment about lead screw wear makes me wonder if what I do it a good idea or not. I wonder what others do. I wonder if there is a commended practice. If no one posts here, I might start a new thread on it. It's a very good question and I'm glad you mentioned it.

 

[Jswain]

All worked out as planned. Kept the slots undersized & it took about 10 mins with a hand file to get a damn good fit. Just gotta clean up the handle and weld it together now

And re install my milling vise

 

[Jswain]

One more thing done

 

[Proxule]

Slick work, but I will be making one of these!

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/20190325_130104-jpg.307566/

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/20190325_130035-jpg.307567/

 

[Jswain]

Slick work, but I will be making one of these!

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/20190325_130104-jpg.307566/

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/20190325_130035-jpg.307567/

I seen that too, and it may be a future project. I like that it's spring loaded, I'm tempted to drill a hole in mine & the wrench so they come off together

 

[Jswain]

Got some stock cut for a new tnut for the qctp & a tailstock clamp.

The tnut I made before I had access to a mill, so did what I could with the South bend. Not sure if it will improve rigidity any but I'm sure it won't hurt it.

The tailstock clamp was obviously broken and previously repaired. While the braze is holding solid the "machined" surfaces aren't level and it doesn't grip like it should.

I figured instead of spending time fixing it I will make a new one, roughly an inch longer so hopefully the grip will be good.

 

[Jswain]

Got the tailstock clamp finished. Fits good, I went obviously ~1" longer than stock & slightly wider. I didn't want to go too wide and have it hang up as I move the tailstock but it slides 10x better then before and I'd imagine will clamp better too

 

[Jswain]

And one much better fitting t-nut. I threaded it all the way through because the stud doesn't even come close to the bottom of the nut

 

[Jswain]

Little redneck shelf brackets. Sliced up some rebar and welded some nuts where the screws go. If I did it again id either just drill through the rebar or heat it up and pound it flat a bit but oh well.

Have had this bench grinder sitting in the basement for awhile, mounted it fairly high on the wall & going to use this just for sharpening.

Put up a couple hooks for 2 lids, and after the pic I had a little Ikea lamp that I put on the shelf as well

 

[Jswain]

Got some t slot covers printing now. Designed & printed a couple 1" long to get the fit right.

Printed with TPU filament, snaps into place nice and doesn't move around but feels good and sturdy.

 

[Proxule]

Got some t slot covers printing now. Designed & printed a couple 1" long to get the fit right.

Printed with TPU filament, snaps into place nice and doesn't move around but feels good and sturdy.

Very slick !

 

[Jswain]

Still waiting on one tslot cover to print but I swapped them around for the pics so it looks finished

Have the end caps designed and will start printing the first one tonight before bed.

Spent some of the day messing around with the South bend. Turned a brass shim for the cross feed leadscrew which took the backlash from ~.050" to .013". The rest must be mostly in the nut as the leadscrew itself looks good but I think I will live with that, at least for now.

 

[Jswain]

1 outta 2 finished, happy enough with the fit so I have the 2nd one printing now.

 

[Proxule]

1 outta 2 finished, happy enough with the fit so I have the 2nd one printing now.

Looking sharp. Stl file avail ?

 

[Jswain]

Looking sharp. Stl file avail ?

Yes of course. I can post it on thingiverse and link it here?

Do you want it in another format so you can adjust length of tslot covers or just STL?

 

[Jswain]

RF45 Milling machine T slot covers by SwainJ

RF45 T slot covers & dovetail covers, & endcap covers. Printed with TPU for oil/heat resistance @ ~30mm/sec. Included 1inch tslot & dovetail to test fit & 6inch.

www.thingiverse.com

Just uploaded so it may take a minute, included 1 inch tslot cover so you can print & test fit, 6 inch tslot cover, and the end cap. Also a STEP file for the tslot & endcap so I believe that will let you modify if needed in fusion360 but I've never tried that.

I printed ~30mm/s, 25% infill, & 105% flow with the TPU. They are flexible but very strong.

My first with the PETG was too tight of a fit so if you're using something stiffer you may have to scale it down a touch.

With all the printing I'd say it was ~ 1/3-1/2kg of filament ish including the test pieces

 

[Jswain]

Made some new rests for the bench grinder & took the lamp off its base & mounted right to the table. Left the one on the right uncut as it will eventually have a grinding disc on it as well.

All so I could grind a bit for the flycutter I will take a pic next time I'm outside. Need some longer carriage bolts then I'll bead blast them and black oxide

 

[Proxule]

RF45 Milling machine T slot covers by SwainJ

RF45 T slot covers & dovetail covers, & endcap covers. Printed with TPU for oil/heat resistance @ ~30mm/sec. Included 1inch tslot & dovetail to test fit & 6inch.

www.thingiverse.com

Just uploaded so it may take a minute, included 1 inch tslot cover so you can print & test fit, 6 inch tslot cover, and the end cap. Also a STEP file for the tslot & endcap so I believe that will let you modify if needed in fusion360 but I've never tried that.

I printed ~30mm/s, 25% infill, & 105% flow with the TPU. They are flexible but very strong.

My first with the PETG was too tight of a fit so if you're using something stiffer you may have to scale it down a touch.

With all the printing I'd say it was ~ 1/3-1/2kg of filament ish including the test pieces

Thanks for the link and explanation, PETG is my go to as of late. Its cheap and very strong.
Will keep you posted!
Thanks

 

[Jswain]

I initially set everything for a hopefully 12 degree cut, but I think my rest was too high up on the wheel so it took a lot of material off. So I adjusted and then took enough off again to get it a little closer.

I think this would make a good rh lathe bit, but I think front & side cutting edge angle should be adjusted including the 30degrees of the flycutter angle?

I'm not opposed to starting over, or on the opposite end, I have 3 pieces of the 1/2" that have been sitting doing nothing

I may try it as is, but I have some leather material coming to make a new y axis way cover tomorrow so mayswell leave it clean for now

 

[Susquatch]

I may try it as is, but I have some leather material coming to make a new y axis way cover tomorrow so mayswell leave it clean for now

I think you will find that HSS is more forgiving than you might expect. I would not start over.

However, I do see an edge that might need a bit of work. To my eye, the side of the tip looks like it will rub as the tool advances into the work.

I've tried to highlight the problem but it's not a great markup. Just remember that the edge cannot be followed by a surface that sticks out more than the cutting edge.