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You guys are a bad influence

Chicken lights said:
View attachment 6310
There’s three holes in the tailstock, the third ones kind of hidden closer to the wheel. I’m guessing, as an example, all three need to be oiled?

There are oil points with little flip caps in other areas, I’m guessing those need more frequent oiling?

I didn’t see any drain plugs or fill plugs near the headstock, so I’m not sure if there is really a headstock oil to change and refill the oil
Click to expand...
In your picture, the hole at the bottom appears to be the oil hole for the tailstock ram. Check one of the parts lists though. I'm surprised there isn't a Gits oiler to prevent debris getting in there.

On the upper right, the lock for the tailstock will only need a drop of oil very infrequently.

On the upper left, that hole is from when there was no such thing as a ball-bearing live centre! Old timers filled that with white lead or some other grease and there was a little dauber that fit in to cover the hole. A little grease would be applied to the dead centre before engaging it with the work. I don't think I saw a ball-bearing live centre in your pile of goodies so that is something else that you'll want sooner or later.

Craig
 
You can place a single phase 1hp or 1.5hp motor on her for next to nothing. For 3ph motors are almost free in that size range used. Expect to pay around $10 CAD for 3ph.

You can go with a smaller motor but I don't see a problem with just putting something bigger on her - are you worried about damaging gears under heavier load? I would expect the belt to slip first unless you make it tight.
 
Brent H said:
Hahahahaha!

true that Dave!!!
I am leaving in a couple days. If you want the stand I can arrange it with my son to help you load it up.

the motor that came with my lathe should suit you well - change the bearings. This is the motor:

View attachment 6321View attachment 6322
Click to expand...
I’ll be in touch about the base and motor, as always, thanks for the kind offer. Maybe I’ll have time to slip up there before winter sets in
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Well.... If a professional trucker and a ships chief engineer both agree using drive belts as slings is A-OK, who am I to argue. Just seems a little risky to me and if those belts didn't need replacing before they probably do now LOL.

Beyond the getting off the ground stuff, like a motor, belts, bench, and tooling etc Lathes spawn other things like bench grinders (got to keep your tools sharp), bandsaws (hacksawing 2" RS gets stale real fast), drill presses (stuff you can't drill on the lathe), dial indicators, faceplates, lathe dogs, live centers, clamping kits.... MILL and the list goes on.

You're on a slippery slope my friend. Welcome to the fold.

Craig
Click to expand...
I’m slightly confused why my dial indicator is wonky. It’s a Snap On base with a Fowler head. But the Fowler head doesn’t tighten down well on the Snap on arm

The annoying part is I ordered the head from Snap On, as my base was missing the head in the case when I got it. I assumed they would’ve ordered me a Snap On head
 
Johnwa said:
The RIGHT oils or the oils I use?
I use automatic tranny fluid for the spindle and a 30 weight non detergent from Canada Tire every where else.
Most people are now using serpentine belts between the flat pulleys. You have to disassemble the headstock to get them on, but they run quite and will last a lifetime.

I’d look for a 4 way or quick change toolpost. The rocker style aren’t very stiff.
Click to expand...
Alright, I’ll see if I can get some non-detergent oil ordered in
 
trlvn said:
In your picture, the hole at the bottom appears to be the oil hole for the tailstock ram. Check one of the parts lists though. I'm surprised there isn't a Gits oiler to prevent debris getting in there.

On the upper right, the lock for the tailstock will only need a drop of oil very infrequently.

On the upper left, that hole is from when there was no such thing as a ball-bearing live centre! Old timers filled that with white lead or some other grease and there was a little dauber that fit in to cover the hole. A little grease would be applied to the dead centre before engaging it with the work. I don't think I saw a ball-bearing live centre in your pile of goodies so that is something else that you'll want sooner or later.

Craig
Click to expand...
E80EB6E0-B0CF-44A9-9E8F-877EE54497E8.jpeg


I’m confused by the ball bearing live centre being tapered, but the drill chuck is not. It’s a Jacobs #2 chuck

Are one or both incorrect to use in the tailstock?
 
There is an immense amount of information on South Bend lathes at the following site:

http://www.wswells.com

From that site, there is a detailed brochure on what I believe is your model:

Pdf

Tonnes of information of the various configurations and accessories that were available.

Craig
 
Chicken lights said:
View attachment 6297

It came with a motor! I’m slightly skeptical about wiring a plug on there

Ok. Where’s the “ON” switch? :)
Click to expand...

I'd recommend getting a switch with an emergency stop paddle:

B2561_org.1435537495.jpg

Busy Bee sells them for less than $20:

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/switch-large-stop-button-2hp-cul.html

A standard light switch isn't designed for use with a motor. When a motor starts up, it draws well over the rated amps until it comes up to speed. Cheap light switches may eventually weld themselves closed--in the ON position!

Craig
 
trlvn said:
I'd recommend getting a switch with an emergency stop paddle:

B2561_org.1435537495.jpg

Busy Bee sells them for less than $20:

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/switch-large-stop-button-2hp-cul.html

A standard light switch isn't designed for use with a motor. When a motor starts up, it draws well over the rated amps until it comes up to speed. Cheap light switches may eventually weld themselves closed--in the ON position!

Craig
Click to expand...

You can get them cheaper from Amazon or Aliexpress. $20 is a lot for a switch. For around $30 you can get actual motor starter from China for 2hp that has protected relay and magnetic switch!
 
F3F7D6B8-0083-46BE-BF44-C11234F90012.jpeg

I noticed one of the chucks was smaller than the other two, where it would thread on the lathe.

Without an adapter the small one is worthless to me?

Man, there’s some SMART people on here, and HELPFUL!
 
The small one is a 3-jaw chuck, right? And you have another larger 3-jaw? You don't have the outside jaws for either, do you?

Probably you just want to sell the non-fitting one. My experience was that if you spend a little time and clean it up, somebody will jump on it. Personally I would not buy a used 3-jaw. Over time, the jaws will distort a little bit--usually into a 'bell mouth' shape. Then you can't count on them to hold a part coaxial with the spindle rotation. On YouTube, lots of people try to grind the jaws true again but it is just as easy to make things worse as better!

If you really want the small one, you may be able to fit a new backing plate to it so that it fits your lathe. You can either machine the plate from a raw round slug or buy a piece that already has the mounting threads machined. The following chart suggests 10 inch South Bend lathes have a spindle threaded 2-1/4"-8 tpi:

https://littlemachineshop.com/info/spindles.php

What does your 9 inch have?

Craig
 
trlvn said:
I'd recommend getting a switch with an emergency stop paddle:

B2561_org.1435537495.jpg

Busy Bee sells them for less than $20:

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/switch-large-stop-button-2hp-cul.html

A standard light switch isn't designed for use with a motor. When a motor starts up, it draws well over the rated amps until it comes up to speed. Cheap light switches may eventually weld themselves closed--in the ON position!

Craig
Click to expand...

This is something I should install on my machine as well. Thanks for reminding me.

What's the distance between centers on Dave's machine 22", 24"? 3.5' bed must refer to the entire bed length.
 
Hey Dave,

Here are some links to some youtube videos that may give you some information you can use - even seeing a lathe like yours all restored can be helpful.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz9pZfGE-U0

so much more info - hope things are going well for you!! the stand and the lathe bed for the Utilathe are now outside my shop (lack of space and my wife deserves the garage for her car -LOL) - Should not affect the stand much at all.
 
Brent H said:
Hey Dave,

Here are some links to some youtube videos that may give you some information you can use - even seeing a lathe like yours all restored can be helpful.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz9pZfGE-U0

so much more info - hope things are going well for you!! the stand and the lathe bed for the Utilathe are now outside my shop (lack of space and my wife deserves the garage for her car -LOL) - Should not affect the stand much at all.
Click to expand...
I’d say she deserves the space to park as well haha

I’ll watch the videos when I have some time, thanks!
 
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