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You guys are a bad influence

9A5707F2-FC36-47E3-9EA4-77DC9B97E092.jpeg

You mean it didn’t come with a Honda timing belt from the factory? :D

I didn’t see a model number or serial number on it anywhere.

It’s a 1/4 hp motor now, I’m sure a 1/2 hp would be perfect

If you went to a shorter belt you’d have to change the adjustment arm as well, or do something different there anyway
 
With the right belt you just slip it off the flat pulley, put it in the v you want and then slip it back on the flats easy peasy!

The serial number of the lathe is on the top of the bed, right end, about where you have the tailstock sitting.


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I didn't get a chance to look at wear on the bed. Any obvious signs? Also the feed screw--near the headstock and tailstock. The acme threads will appear thinner if they're worn.

That's an open motor right? Might just have debris inside. Does it turn freely when the belt is off? They are generally pretty easy to take apart. Keep an eye out for shim washers if you do.

You got a great haul of parts and accessories but I'm not seeing too many cutters. Are there HSS cutter bits in the two tool holders? I have 3 lifetimes supply here--I should have thought to bring some along. Your lathe would be hard-pressed to work with carbide tooling. I don't think the RPM's go high enough and borderline rigidity.

Darn cool! With a bit of cleaning and fresh oil she'll look worlds better.

Craig
PS I got an awesome deal on a 6 inch milling vise from this same seller!
 
Johnwa said:
With the right belt you just slip it off the flat pulley, put it in the v you want and then slip it back on the flats easy peasy!

The serial number of the lathe is on the top of the bed, right end, about where you have the tailstock sitting.


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Click to expand...
D96B45D5-3C89-4FAB-B357-D7836EE83136.jpeg

Well that would be why I didn’t see them, thanks!
 
Here’s a link to a manual. It’s for the 10” gearbox version. It includes a drawing showing where to drill all the mounting holes. Double check them because they didn’t work for me.
http://www.wswells.com/data/9_workshop/CL670Z_army.pdf

somewhere on the web there’s a spreadsheet that cross references serial numbers and manufacturing dates.
Alternatively, Grizzly bought SB when it closed down. They will sell you the card for your lathe.
 
trlvn said:
I didn't get a chance to look at wear on the bed. Any obvious signs? Also the feed screw--near the headstock and tailstock. The acme threads will appear thinner if they're worn.

That's an open motor right? Might just have debris inside. Does it turn freely when the belt is off? They are generally pretty easy to take apart. Keep an eye out for shim washers if you do.

You got a great haul of parts and accessories but I'm not seeing too many cutters. Are there HSS cutter bits in the two tool holders? I have 3 lifetimes supply here--I should have thought to bring some along. Your lathe would be hard-pressed to work with carbide tooling. I don't think the RPM's go high enough and borderline rigidity.

Darn cool! With a bit of cleaning and fresh oil she'll look worlds better.

Craig
PS I got an awesome deal on a 6 inch milling vise from this same seller!
Click to expand...
Everything spins freely, motor, pulleys, lathe, gears. I didn’t see any obvious missing teeth or signs of abuse. The only thing that’s hard to turn is the wheel to go left to right.

I’m impressed with how complete it is, I thought for sure it’d be missing parts.

No, I only saw a couple cutters, and both tool holders have had a hard life.

Any idea what oil this thing takes?
 
Chicken lights said:
Everything spins freely, motor, pulleys, lathe, gears. I didn’t see any obvious missing teeth or signs of abuse. The only thing that’s hard to turn is the wheel to go left to right.

I’m impressed with how complete it is, I thought for sure it’d be missing parts.

No, I only saw a couple cutters, and both tool holders have had a hard life.

Any idea what oil this thing takes?
Click to expand...
Re tool holding, you'll have to decide which way you want to go. Quick change tool holding system, 4-way tool post or stick with the lantern style. QCTP is the most convenient and the most costly. Might depend on whether you see yourself using this machine for a long time or if you'll flip it for a bigger machine in a year or two.

Re lubrication, there are about 4 different publications on the Vintage Machinery site:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3

The lubrication chart has nice diagrams showing each of the lube points and the recommended servicing frequency.

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4574

Note that these old machines want non-detergent oil. Engine oil for your truck really isn't the right thing! There is an online site in the US that has a good summary of the currently-available oils that match up well with what South Bend originally recommended:

http://bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_blog/product/sbl-a-b-and-c-oils/

I'm not saying you have to buy from them; just that they have a nice single page summary. I know that KBC in Canada has way oil available in the recommended weight. I'm using ISO 32 compressor oil (from Canadian Tire) for my spindle oil. I think they may also have ISO 68.

OTOH, any oil is better than none. If you have some light machine oil in a pump can, it won't hurt to squirt some on right now. Then switch to the "right" stuff when you can get it.

Craig
 
trlvn said:
Re tool holding, you'll have to decide which way you want to go. Quick change tool holding system, 4-way tool post or stick with the lantern style. QCTP is the most convenient and the most costly. Might depend on whether you see yourself using this machine for a long time or if you'll flip it for a bigger machine in a year or two.

Re lubrication, there are about 4 different publications on the Vintage Machinery site:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3

The lubrication chart has nice diagrams showing each of the lube points and the recommended servicing frequency.

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4574

Note that these old machines want non-detergent oil. Engine oil for your truck really isn't the right thing! There is an online site in the US that has a good summary of the currently-available oils that match up well with what South Bend originally recommended:

http://bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_blog/product/sbl-a-b-and-c-oils/

I'm not saying you have to buy from them; just that they have a nice single page summary. I know that KBC in Canada has way oil available in the recommended weight. I'm using ISO 32 compressor oil (from Canadian Tire) for my spindle oil. I think they may also have ISO 68.

OTOH, any oil is better than none. If you have some light machine oil in a pump can, it won't hurt to squirt some on right now. Then switch to the "right" stuff when you can get it.

Craig
Click to expand...
EE789B82-B5D7-47F2-8B11-C099AF3C3B80.jpeg

There’s three holes in the tailstock, the third ones kind of hidden closer to the wheel. I’m guessing, as an example, all three need to be oiled?

There are oil points with little flip caps in other areas, I’m guessing those need more frequent oiling?

I didn’t see any drain plugs or fill plugs near the headstock, so I’m not sure if there is really a headstock oil to change and refill the oil
 
The headstock needs oil every time the lathe is used. There is no reservoir or seals so the oil leaks out fairly quickly.


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9 X 42 Nice snag!!!!! I wish I had the room for that much lathe.

Please Please Please tell me you didn't hoist it using it's drive belts as slings!
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
9 X 42 Nice snag!!!!! I wish I had the room for that much lathe.

Please Please Please tell me you didn't hoist it using it's drive belts as slings!
Click to expand...
Why would using the drive belts as slings be a bad thing?
I doubt they’re the correct ones and are probably one of the first things I should replace

Well, motor, base, belts, tooling..... there’s a short list of things to don
 
Hahahahaha!

true that Dave!!!
I am leaving in a couple days. If you want the stand I can arrange it with my son to help you load it up.

the motor that came with my lathe should suit you well - change the bearings. This is the motor:

371A8035-EE83-4D14-B05A-D6161AE38D1C.jpeg
4107074F-4730-4B73-A2DF-6A84EC758728.jpeg
 
Well.... If a professional trucker and a ships chief engineer both agree using drive belts as slings is A-OK, who am I to argue. Just seems a little risky to me and if those belts didn't need replacing before they probably do now LOL.

Beyond the getting off the ground stuff, like a motor, belts, bench, and tooling etc Lathes spawn other things like bench grinders (got to keep your tools sharp), bandsaws (hacksawing 2" RS gets stale real fast), drill presses (stuff you can't drill on the lathe), dial indicators, faceplates, lathe dogs, live centers, clamping kits.... MILL and the list goes on.

You're on a slippery slope my friend. Welcome to the fold.

Craig
 
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The RIGHT oils or the oils I use?
I use automatic tranny fluid for the spindle and a 30 weight non detergent from Canada Tire every where else.
Most people are now using serpentine belts between the flat pulleys. You have to disassemble the headstock to get them on, but they run quite and will last a lifetime.

I’d look for a 4 way or quick change toolpost. The rocker style aren’t very stiff.
 
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