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Show us your shops!

•Floor insulation?
• Vapor barrier under sand?
• What are the beams for? Embeds for equipment?
Floor insulation is required if you have in floor heating so the heat doesn't just get sucked into ground. In BC anyways other provinces may vary depending.

Vapor barrier usually goes over if required. But in my case because it's a shop they didn't force me to put in radon protection being 6" of filter gravel with holey PVC that is vented to outside then layer of vapor barrier to seal everything up.

Beams are for frame straightening mostly but can be used to fabricate larger items and used to tack different components onto so they don't move around or can be held straight. Can even use to tack jigs to the floor for things like staircase hand rail or tack a column vertically to built spiral staircase.

Possibilities are endless sorta
 

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Floor insulation is required if you have in floor heating so the heat doesn't just get sucked into ground. In BC anyways other provinces may vary depending.

Vapor barrier usually goes over if required. But in my case because it's a shop they didn't force me to put in radon protection being 6" of filter gravel with holey PVC that is vented to outside then layer of vapor barrier to seal everything up.

Beams are for frame straightening mostly but can be used to fabricate larger items and used to tack different components onto so they don't move around or can be held straight. Can even use to tack jigs to the floor for things like staircase hand rail or tack a column vertically to built spiral staircase.

Possibilities are endless sorta
Gotcha

I was thinking more of moisture than Radon.

Glycol in the floor warming system?
 
FWIW, my shop at 25’x30’ 12’ inside height costs me roughly $150/year to keep at 59deg F electrical boiler heat. Zero maintenance. Not difficult to heat with wood fired boiler if desired. Easy on the feet and back when laying on floor in mid winter. Yes, more expensive up front, but worth it in my opinion. Not trying to beat you up if mind is made up, but the concrete isn’t in yet :-)

Totally understand not wasting money, and your priorities/intent for your shop are undoubtedly different than mine.

On edit for Chazz, I use 50%glycol/water. Is what Uponor rep suggested.
 
Gotcha
I was thinking more of moisture than Radon.
Glycol in the floor warming system?

Ye most systems use glycol mixed with water or some use straight glycol kinda depends how deep your pockets goes lol
FWIW, my shop
Ye In floor heating would be nice but I'm fine with radiant heater.

Between accidentally drilling holes in it and the municipality forcing more requirements. I'm ok with Luke warm floors lol my buddies shop is natural gas heated and floors are good enough to lay on lol

Cost is a factor too probably cost around 15k all said and done just to have heated floors which isn't a deal breaker as I'm saving good amount of money building the shop my self no contractors or employees but I'm also happy just to have a concrete floor to work on vs gravel floor pole barn lol

Maybe if I out grow my current property and look to move further into the woods I'll do in floor heat on the next shop lol
 
ost is a factor too probably cost around 15k all said and done just to have heated floors which isn't a deal breaker as I'm saving good amount of money building the shop my self no contractors or employees but I'm also happy just to have a concrete floor to work on vs gravel floor pole barn lol
I was quoted a price similar to yours for floor heat when I moved my house from Calgary to the farm....but me being who I am, a cheap basartd I did it all myself. Bought the pex (1/2 piping because we also have a furnace alternative heat source, If floor heat is only source use 3/4 hose) and the wife & I installed and zip tied to rebar in a weekend. I have 4 zones & made my own header from common Home depot parts bins. I used the same pumps as the commercial system would have from a pluming supply store...easy installation in minutes with the pex couplers.
The most expensive part of the commercial offering was the hot water provider, I circumvented that by using a gas fired hot water tank we already had...works excellent and has been continually "winter" used for almost 20 yrs since it was installed. ( I have changed the pilot lite controler once). The people that sell the boilers will tell you that a hot water heater isnt usable ....dont believe them one bit!!
I have less than $2000 in the total set-up.
 
Just for info- easy to avoid drilling hole in radiant pipes. Mark out their locations on the floor in January when they are hottest using a heat camera.
The company I worked for the last 15 years of my work life designed hundreds of industrial floor warming systems food Cold Storage facilities (without floor warming there is the very real danger of cold migrating through the floor slab into the ground and freezing moisture in the soil resulting in the slab heaving): continuous runs of tubing (no hidden joints) were laid out, accurately dimensioned and installed per the drawings in a “mud slab” (unfinished concrete sub-slab). This minimized the potential of drilling through a tube since the locations were documented and the tubes were well below the structural slab.
 
Just for info- easy to avoid drilling hole in radiant pipes. Mark out their locations on the floor in January when they are hottest using a heat camera.
I prefer to live on the edge and completely forget I had in floor heating during building my house.

Also found out later that I was aloud to just pl-400 my load bearing walls to basement slab.
 

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