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Quick change insert height

If you redrilled the tee nut , could the post be mounted closer to the edge? if so the nose of the compound, mainly the corners could be clearanced. I'd consider this first to maintain the 5/8 tooling, and not have to mill every block you buy, or buy xl holders.
 
I would take material off of the bottom of the tool holder. I would use a belt grinder. You don't need to take off very much, and you don't need to take off any specific amount - just enough so it fits. And it doesn't have to be parallel or perpendicular to any surface
 
I would take material off of the bottom of the tool holder. I would use a belt grinder. You don't need to take off very much, and you don't need to take off any specific amount - just enough so it fits. And it doesn't have to be parallel or perpendicular to any surface
One of the problems I've seen by having too little clearance between the top of the compound and the bottom of the tool holder is that a chip can get trapped under it and then your tool height is wrong, if possible, I'd remove enough so there is at least a little clearance.
 
One of the problems I've seen by having too little clearance between the top of the compound and the bottom of the tool holder is that a chip can get trapped under it and then your tool height is wrong, if possible, I'd remove enough so there is at least a little clearance.
Yes. I'm already in the habit of brushing or blowing off the area under the tool holder, when swapping holders.
 
One of the problems I've seen by having too little clearance between the top of the compound and the bottom of the tool holder is that a chip can get trapped under it and then your tool height is wrong, if possible, I'd remove enough so there is at least a little clearance.

This (and for other reasons too) is why I really like making and using a tool height standard. I use it virtually every time I change tools. It takes seconds to do and prevents all kinds of errors. It is my belief that the very first tool any lathe owner should make is a tool height standard.
 
Do the tool holders have removeable seats in them for the bit to sit on, maybe able to get thinner ones if so. In hand with that perhaps a thinner bit, but as bit sizes seem to be some what standardized may not be much for that.
Other wise as many are saying, remove 0.20"- 0.50" from the bottom of the tool holder, cheap, fairly easy, and will allow for on centre ajustment of bits. Can be a big help for setting h.s.s. bits as they are sharpened or modded for different jobs when you just don't have the rite shim.
It's always handy to have some different sizes of h.s.s. in the bit line up.
 
@Bandit, the discussion is centering around BXA tool holders and post. Shims are never needed, as there is a height adjustment.

What you are suggesting is common for 4-way tool posts. Even so, I have advocated for years to customize the tool holders for the 4-way so as to eliminate the use of spacers or shims entirely.
 
This (and for other reasons too) is why I really like making and using a tool height standard. I use it virtually every time I change tools. It takes seconds to do and prevents all kinds of errors. It is my belief that the very first tool any lathe owner should make is a tool height standard.
Does yours sit on the ways or crossslide?
 
Do the tool holders have removeable seats in them for the bit to sit on, maybe able to get thinner ones if so. In hand with that perhaps a thinner bit, but as bit sizes seem to be some what standardized may not be much for that.
Other wise as many are saying, remove 0.20"- 0.50" from the bottom of the tool holder, cheap, fairly easy, and will allow for on centre ajustment of bits. Can be a big help for setting h.s.s. bits as they are sharpened or modded for different jobs when you just don't have the rite shim.
It's always handy to have some different sizes of h.s.s. in the bit line up.
The holders do have removable insert seats. I’ll contact Accusize re lower insert holders
 
Does yours sit on the ways or crossslide?

I have seen both, but I prefer one that sits on the flat way. Sometimes it's difficult to set a tool tip if it sits too far away from the cross-slide. For example the cutting edge of a boring bar. I have not encountered a situation where a standard sitting on the ways didn't work.
 
If one has multiple lathes , using a flat ground bar and a height gage is easy after first establishing the height .
 
As a farmer, I have access to an unending supply of large old bolts. I used one to make my standard. The larger bolt head was easily converted into a larger flat surface that sits on a flat way, and turning off the threads left a really nice cylinder to machine to the correct length using a 1/4" endmill shaft as a gauge. I use the standard so often that I keep it on the tool rack with all my tool holders. It gets used every time I change tools because I simply don't trust my old memory.
 
As a farmer, I have access to an unending supply of large old bolts. I used one to make my standard. The larger bolt head was easily converted into a larger flat surface that sits on a flat way, and turning off the threads left a really nice cylinder to machine to the correct length using 1/4" dowel pin as a gauge. I use the standard so often that I keep it on the tool rack with all my tool holders. It gets used every time I change tools because I simply don't trust my old memory.
Picture time.
 
Perfect response @YYCHM ! Only you could do that though..... Assuming we even remembered it, the rest of us would still be looking for that thread a year from now!

I'll check and see if mine is there and post a picture tomorrow if not.
 
Perfect response @YYCHM ! Only you could do that though..... Assuming we even remembered it, the rest of us would still be looking for that thread a year from now!

I'll check and see if mine is there and post a picture tomorrow if not.

It's buried in there twice.....

20220721_164519-jpg.25118
 
It's buried in there twice.....
I have a cheap 12" vernier height gauge I can set in the cross slide, turn a part, measure height to the top of the part and subtract the radius and that's the tool height. Write it down and you have i and you can still use the height gauge for other purposes. That even works on lathe ways with an inverted vee as there are usually two flat ways of the same height you can use with a flat bar and a couple of shim CRS blocks. The good part of doing it that way is that there is no , or very little, feel left to determine if the tool height is correct.
 
Well, all 3 of us are right about the BXA tool holders, Dabbler, Susquatch, and myself. I use mine with h.s.s. a lot, and not always with the " right" size shanks. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8" square h.s.s., not held in a holder. Shims "under" the h.s.s. to bring to near on centre height, adjust with the height adjustment to fine tune. The few tool holders I had for carbide so far have disappeared when we moved, along with some of the carbide, and the tool holders and not all the bit holders were the rite size.
I like to have as large amount of engagement with the post as possible and I don't like the screws real long to hold h.s.s. or tool holders. As long as the adjuster has some justment, i'am happy. Just me and the way I like to do it.
I was also talking about the anvil under some carbide inserts, couldn't think of anvil at the time.
It can get a bit confusing at times, the carbide insert/bit is put into a tool holder, the tool holder is put into a tool holder, then put on to the post. I also have two different quick change posts, different sizes, different lathes. The last tool holders/block I bought for the small unit don't fit over the dove tail. Oh well, on to the shaper one day.
Sorry if caused some confusion. And I am still using the 4 post or the quick change as for what ever job as needed.
I also use lantern post or small shank shaper tool holders in the 4 post or the quick change as needed too. Ye ha, h.s.s. Yes there always is a place for it.( wheres the laser for lathes and milling machines,)
 
It can get a bit confusing at times, the carbide insert/bit is put into a tool holder, the tool holder is put into a tool holder, then put on to the post.

I dislike ambiguity too. In the old days, it was simpler. You had a tool post and a tool. The post was usually a lantern style. For me at least, clarity is achieved by adding words when they are needed. If I think my intent is obvious or doesn't matter, I'll often drop the extra words.

For example, on my current lathe, I have a wedge style tool post, then tool holders, then insert tool holders, then anvils, and then carbide inserts. Piston style tool posts, and 4-way tool posts are both popular too. I usually add "carbide" before inserts because there are also HSS inserts out there.

I know that different manufacturers use different names for some of these things, and I also know that other people use different names too. I'm not claiming that my way is the right way. I only suggest it because I believe that it works for me - most of the time.

The one that causes the most confusion is that anvil. Lots of people ask me what that is when I mention them because lots of people, and also many manufacturers, prefer to call them shims. I wish they wouldn't, but I can't change the world.

A few of my other pet pieves are indicators, test indicators, and dial test indicators..... And let's not forget Vernier calipers, dial calipers, and digital calipers.

So much confusion out there! LOL!
 
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