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Mazda 6 doesn't like Canadian winters

Elektrishun said:
I have used a resistance battery tester and a test with a Innova OBDII tester. The Innova has a test for both the battery and alternator.
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The obd is just polling the computer, I wouldn't rely on that at all

Checking voltage without any draw doesn't really tell you the condition unless it's totally fubar'd, key on position isn't enough load, and running, the alternator is masking and battery troubles

I would crank that guy with a multimeter on it and see what sort of voltage drop you get at the terminals, and again at the solenoid, that should eliminate bad battery, bad grounds/power lead

When I say the resistance tester, I mean the one with a big coil that smokes like a banshee because you have inadvertently gotten oil all over it...that's probably the best although not perfect tester
 
phaxtris said:
The obd is just polling the computer, I wouldn't rely on that at all

Checking voltage without any draw doesn't really tell you the condition unless it's totally fubar'd, key on position isn't enough load, and running, the alternator is masking and battery troubles

I would crank that guy with a multimeter on it and see what sort of voltage drop you get at the terminals, and again at the solenoid, that should eliminate bad battery, bad grounds/power lead

When I say the resistance tester, I mean the one with a big coil that smokes like a banshee because you have inadvertently gotten oil all over it...that's probably the best although not perfect tester
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I have the classic BT-100 load tester.
 
Elektrishun said:
I have the classic BT-100 load tester.
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After checking the voltage drop difference from what you see at the battery while cranking vs what you see at the solenoid to rule out any bad connections or bad cabling my next step might be to just replace the starter, it could just be a weak starter (it's what, 14 years old at those point?
 
Susquatch said:
And this is just one reason why I hate those pinch connectors! LOL!
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This is also why LED test lights are useless for diagnosing any circuit meant to carry more than say 50mA. They don't load the circuit enough. I use incandescent bulbs of various current draws as test lights.
 
Darren said:
This is also why LED test lights are useless for diagnosing any circuit meant to carry more than say 50mA. They don't load the circuit enough. I use incandescent bulbs of various current draws as test lights.
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Ya, I hate those LED testers too. I laughed out loud when I read that.

I confess I have used regular bulbs too. But I also have a drawer full of shunts I have made or purchased over the years. A few of them are even calibrated so I can use them with a regular multimeter to measure high currents. I got one just recently on Ali that I have not even tried yet. Shunts are a great tool for testing automotive/agricultural electrical systems.
 
Well, the car is in the driveway, it's been sitting plugged-in since early last evening (block heater and new on-board charger powered up).

It's only -15 C but a little messy because of the wind and it's currently snowing. So the on-board charger did it's thing and the pre-start voltage was 12.7. Started the vehicle, push-to-start, and it turned over in 2 seconds. Sounded like a typical start. With the vehicle running voltage was 14.4.

What does this all mean? Nothing, except the car will likely start for the next few days as the temp. is supposed to eventually reach +1.

And it also means I can no longer put off getting that neo-angle shower back together. Spent hours removing old silicone and waiting for replacement hardware. Then the car thing. No more excuses. At least none that the wife will find acceptable. Although, there is some snow to shovel...

I will get back to proper testing once the opportunity arises as there is no immediate concern. And I will post the results. Thanks again for all the feedback, much appreciated!

Mazda 6.jpg
 
Elektrishun said:
At least none that the wife will find acceptable. Although, there is some snow to shovel...
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Thank God for shovelling. My wife NEVER COMPLAINS when I shovel. Even if I slip away to the shop between attacks. I love snow!
 
At the dealership, we would measure the available space for the largest battery possible. The charts are not always correct on fitment.
Pierre
 
pdentrem said:
At the dealership, we would measure the available space for the largest battery possible. The charts are not always correct on fitment.
Pierre
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In the old days of vehicle design, the battery compartment was often deliberately oversized to allow for an aftermarket battery warmer. That might explain your charts. Then again, different battery makers often have different sized batteries for same specs too.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
Now this is where I'd park this around Jane and Finch for a coupe days
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Funny.

OTOH, I once won an auctioned milling machine, then found I had to collect it almost exactly at Jane and Finch. I drove down in fear and trembling, and in broad daylight, but encountered no difficulties at all, not even a drive-by shooting.

Maybe I live right....
 
Ishmael said:
Funny.

OTOH, I once won an auctioned milling machine, then found I had to collect it almost exactly at Jane and Finch. I drove down in fear and trembling, and in broad daylight, but encountered no difficulties at all, not even a drive-by shooting.

Maybe I live right....
Click to expand...
I avoided that area when I lived in Mississauga, but one day I was there stopped at a red light and numerous cops simultaneously came out of nowhere and swarmed the car besides me in some sort of probably drug takedown. When the light turned green I was out of there in a jiffy just in case the bullets started flying. Funny thing was just before it happened I was thinking doesn't seems so bad here, I wonder why this place has such a bad reputation?
 
Lots of good advice. If you can't "find" something wrong, a battery blanket(as already mentioned) will keep a weaker battery starting fine in the winter.

Synthetic oil helps too, what type of oil is he running in it?
 
I have been dealing with Dodge’s messed up system used on maybe all their vehicles since 2014. An “intelligent battery sensor” and “battery saver mode”. Some of the dummer, stranger, WTF, set ups. Slowly more info seems to be showing up on the “net”.
Sometimes you turn the key, and nothing, so open the drivers door, wait 10 seconds, close door, it will now display normally and start, sometimes not. If the not, jump the dam thing.
When running and cold, uses a lot of juice to the grid heaters, keeps switching them on and off to warm up intake air, allowing faster warm up, and less emissions. This will often kick the battery saver mode in, which shuts down radio, seat heat, steering wheel heat, heater and defrost to minimal, and then never seems to go out of that mode unless a restart is done. Which seems to mess with the batteries!
This is with 2 large 12 volt batteries, batteries test fine with old style load tester and voltage drop.
Too many computers, not enough basic engine tech. Seems the colder temps start messing with these systems and if anything in the computers doesn’t like the signal from the various and many sensors you are out of luck. It’s not starting.
The sad thing is even some of the new vehicles are still using these setups. So now chase a wiring harness connector in a wheel well that has been found to be a problem with some vehicles not starting, when I can get to it.
The 2004 didn’t have these issues, but it’s gone.
Anyway, all the best for the season, keep warm, enjoy company, make a few chips if can!
 
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phaxtris said:
After checking the voltage drop difference from what you see at the battery while cranking vs what you see at the solenoid to rule out any bad connections or bad cabling my next step might be to just replace the starter, it could just be a weak starter (it's what, 14 years old at those point?
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Voltage drop test is coming soon...

The starter is old in age but not in actual wear. When the battery is charged it starts without hesitation.

A little more background about this car... My son bought it pre-COVID from the original owner. The KMs were under 60,000. Why? The explanation was that the owner was not a confident driver and drove minimally.

I think this starting issue has been around a long time and we have inherited it. The low KMs could be because the original owner parked it in the winter months because of the vehicle not starting consistently. Maybe.
 
When TorontoBuilder mentioned "Jane and Finch" the comment sailed right over my head.

Where I'm from someone might say, "Park it in the A,B,C's", neighborhoods that include avenues A through Y.
 
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Jswain said:
Take the battery to ctire and ask them to test it. If it tests good find the parasitic draw.

Lots of short winter drives in a row then leaving it parked in extreme cold can make a good battery crap pretty fast.
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If it's the battery it will be the third replacement since he got the car. Replaced the original with a COSTCO and replaced the COSTCO with a battery from Canadian Energy. Not an expert on testing batteries but I think at this point I have enough knowledge and test equipment to verify the battery.

Checked for a parasitic draw earlier this winter. Once I figured out how to put it in "full sleep mode" I was getting about 34 mA consistently. That is supposed to be within spec for this car.
 
Elektrishun said:
Voltage drop test is coming soon...

The starter is old in age but not in actual wear. When the battery is charged it starts without hesitation.

A little more background about this car... My son bought it pre-COVID from the original owner. The KMs were under 60,000. Why? The explanation was that the owner was not a confident driver and drove minimally.

I think this starting issue has been around a long time and we have inherited it. The low KMs could be because the original owner parked it in the winter months because of the vehicle not starting consistently. Maybe.
Click to expand...

a weak starter will still start on a fresh battery, its when the battery is low, or cold outside, bad windings/corroded windings cause to high of a draw and slow cranking or just straight up no start
 
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