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Machine Considering Buying a King 1236ML Looking for Opinions

Machine
Jswain said:
If they are wobbly you could get/make a steel tube that fits over them and weld to the flat plate so only a small amount of rubber sticks out the bottom
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That is the approach that I took.
 
So I mentioned earlier I ordered a “machinist level” off Amazon but it was only a whopping 75 bucks hence the quotation marks lol. I obviously don’t have a Granite plate but to “prove” the level I put a piece of tubing in my vice and got it reading dead center after some effort. So after flipping it 180 degrees it was off center. Now I realize these are extremely sensitive but it still should be the same flipped 180 or am I missing something? Even many instructions state the way to prove a level is to find a level plane and then flip it. That being said. I figured I’d try it so I removed the compound for more room and put the level on top so it was “across the ways”and ran the apron from one end to the other and after some adjustments I managed to get the bubble to stay the same from end to end. That being said, it would seem there is no twist, but not necessarily level on either plane. I realize this is somewhat ok as you want parallel more than level but there’s no way I’m that lucky. Debating on sending the level back due to not being able to prove it. My next step is to check the tail stock offset. On that note I know it’s no where close to a ground test bar but I have a piece of 1” stainless shaft that I could put between centers and sweep it with a dial to get me close?? Sorry for the long post.
 
To "level" a lathe you're really just getting it close anyways.

Level the base and then align the lathe.

 
Megar arc 5040dd said:
Is the level you bought adjustable? Tom Lipton has a really could video on calibrating a precision level if it has an adjustment screw.
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Yes it is. I missed that part. So after I got it level in the vice and flipped it over and it didn’t read the same. I tried to adjust it by splitting the difference a couple of times to get a close and every time I would get it, it’d be off the other way. I’m going to try and calibrate it again. That’s the problem with them being so sensitive.
 
I bought a "machinist" level off of Amazon as well, when I got my new lathe a few years back. Sounds like I went through the exact frustrations you have been going through. Another issue I had with mine was that the bubble moved very slowly, and once it got going, it often kept going. So when an adjustment was made, my indication of it's affect was delayed. Recently, I was given a Starret machinist level. Night and day between using the 2. The Starret is much much easier to use, reacts appropriately to changes, etc. Maybe you can borrow one locally to give it a try?
 
Yeah I was aware of how sensitive they are. In one of the other videos I viewed of levelling the lathe the guy actually said stay away from them because they’re so sensitive and hard to get used to when you’re inexperienced. I just feel that by levelling the piece of tubing in the voice and getting it dead nuts one way it should read the same 180°. Should it not? That’s the thing that is throwing me off.
 
That $75 for machinist level likely too cheap. I paid over $100 for a Moore&Wright years back. That was with a discount at Malkin & Pitton. (sp) . Old Vancouverites will remember them. It was required on the tool list. I did use it work.
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
That $75 for machinist level likely too cheap. I paid over $100 for a Moore&Wright years back. That was with a discount at Malkin & Pitton. (sp) . Old Vancouverites will remember them. It was required on the tool list. I did use it work.
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Oh for sure, I agree. I read the reviews and they seemed ok, but can you believe the reviews? I was hoping it would be ok for what I needed just starting out. Even if it was half as accurate as it claims it’ll be fine. But unless it can be proven, there’s no way to tell for sure. Two tenths over 10” is crazy.
 
I'm a retired millwright. Leveling is painfully slow, tedious work . When my son and I went together and bought a 10x22 lathe, I got him to level it. It took him a day. He is also a millwright, BTW. It's one of the things we do for a living. When he moved out, he took it with him. That's what sons do. I bought a used 12x24. It was a heavier lathe, it still flexed. The old Taiwanese Generic lathes used a copy of the Colchester bed. They are heavier duty than current 12" lathes. Still was a pain.

As millwrights ,we have offcuts of shim stock. You can buy a pack of various sizes from machine shop suppliers like KBC.
 
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Jason Silliker said:
Two tenths over 10” is crazy.
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Yes. But it is the whole point of a precision level. That's the reason it is so useful.

Unfortunately, just because the seller says that's what it's good for doesn't mean it really is. That's why you have to calibrate it.

I'd still like to see photos of your setup.
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
I'm a retired millwright. Leveling is painfully slow, tedious work . When my son and I went together and bought a 10x22 lathe, I got him to level it. It took him a day. He is also a millwright, BTW. It's one of the things we do for a living. When he moved out, he took it with him. That's what sons do. I bought a used 12x24. It was a heavier lathe, it still flexed. The old Taiwanese Generic lathes used a copy of the Colchester bed. They are heavier duty than current 12" lathes. Still was a pain.
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I've been a Millwright since 98 as well, however we don't do much in the way of precision leveling in our facility. I'm doing Machinist as a second trade & on paper I have block 3 but haven't been getting the hours so I feel more like a block 1 lol. I've always wanted a lathe at home & even if it doesn't get used much it'll always be there. Unfortunately I haven't had a lot of time to level it yet but I find with guys input & help here, it makes it easier & speeds it up.
 
Susquatch said:
Yes. But it is the whole point of a precision level. That's the reason it is so useful.

Unfortunately, just because the seller says that's what it's good for doesn't mean it really is. That's why you have to calibrate it.

I'd still like to see photos of your setup.
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For sure. I think what that gentleman meant was the Starrett was not as precise but a lot more accurate to a lesser degree if that makes sense. The Starrett is still heads above the others but it measures .005" per foot where the other on is .0002" over 10". He mentioned to start with a Starrett as it's less finicky but in the end still gives a great result. An old thread on here mentioned using the Starrett to get it close then use 2 cut method to dial it in the rest of the way.

It makes perfect sense but I was thinking a $400-500 level for a $4000 lathe to start. Not trying to sound cheap because if you don't start off right you won't get the results, but it's also hard to judge just starting out.

I was fully prepared for it not to be that accurate but if it was even close to the accuracy if the Starrett , it would get me close. I'm not saying it isn't accurate either I just need to "prove" it & see it with my own eyes.
 
There is a saying "A shop without a lathe and welder is naked. " I have even shot machine levels using an optical micrometer level, much more pleasant than using a stinger. They use lasers now, They don't bend like light.

There are two grades of levels, that 5 thou like the Starrett or my M&W or those super precision . Which will drive you mad. A level is proofed by setting it down on something solid then turning it end for end in the same place. I went through a whole rack of levels at CT until I found one that was right. When I leveled my lathe I bought a new 24" Stabil to get me in the ball park, then used my M&W.
 
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Jason Silliker said:
For sure. I think what that gentleman meant was the Starrett was not as precise but a lot more accurate to a lesser degree if that makes sense. The Starrett is still heads above the others but it measures .005" per foot where the other on is .0002" over 10". He mentioned to start with a Starrett as it's less finicky but in the end still gives a great result.
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I had thought Starrett made two different levels with different precision. But I could be wrong. Mine is a Grizzly.

Jason Silliker said:
An old thread on here mentioned using the Starrett to get it close then use 2 cut method to dial it in the rest of the way.
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I'm glad you said that. I was going to say it if you didn't.

Basically, the level is only used to get the bulk of the twist out of the bed. Thereafter, you need to use the lathe's own cutting results to fine tune its alignment. In my opinion, calling the process levelling is misleading and inappropriate. Aligning or alignment is a much better term.

A picture would really help.
 
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