I'm no electrician, but wouldn't a 220/240V motor plugged into 110V explain it pulling higher amps, especially during start up conditions & popping your breaker if there was any kind of load?
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Compressor Question
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
I'm no electrician, but wouldn't a 220/240V motor plugged into 110V explain it pulling higher amps, especially during start up conditions & popping your breaker if there was any kind of load?
I re-wired the motor for 110V (it was previously wired 220V for my mill) and the circuit is 110V 20 amp.
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Ah, ok. Does the name plate say what the FLA is using 110v? Its always more than the nominal running amps. Or if you have a clamp meter you could record max? Anyways this is pertaining to popping the breaker but sounds like there are some other mechanical? things happening in the background. I'm just not clear if you are just on the amp bubble simply starting the motor unloaded & any kind of additional mechanical load is enough to make it cough & die. But now it sounds like you are able to run for a while now & get pressure?
I can get to 120 psi but not without 2-4 breaker trips.... The last run up, the beaker tips occurred at 10 psi, 20 psi, 110 psi, and 120 psi. Makes no sense to me...
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historicalarms
Ultra Member
Breakers get weak after tripping a few times I've been told by a journeyman....but in all seriousness Craig, the last compressor i bought was $85 at Costco 3 or 4 yrs ago), for the house to run stapleguns & such, not for my shop, but it will reach 120 with a couple minutes run time. probably not enough tank volume to fill a tire at one go but 2 would for sure. And its light enough for the wife to cart around when she needs a staple gun for something
......What I'm suggesting is you've probably spent that much already and still on "square one".... sometimes I agree it's just good therapy to overcome a problem.....but I think this one has gone beyond therapy. LOL
......What I'm suggesting is you've probably spent that much already and still on "square one".... sometimes I agree it's just good therapy to overcome a problem.....but I think this one has gone beyond therapy. LOL
So go figure.... today she ran 0 psi to 120 psi with the only trip occurring at 120 psi
Is this thing fickle or what
Two observations..... the extension cord got quite warm and one reed valve stopped fluttering at around 50 psi.
@Johnwa has already suggested to me that I need a heavier extension cord. The reed valve phenomenon is just plain puzzling. I doesn't appear to be leaking air but maybe that piston isn't contributing anything either. Pulling the head for a look see will just be opening Pandora's box as I'm sure the head gaskets won't survive. If it will pressure up to 100 psi consistently without tripping the breaker I would call it good enough. 20 gal at 100 psi available.
Is this thing fickle or whatTwo observations..... the extension cord got quite warm and one reed valve stopped fluttering at around 50 psi.
@Johnwa has already suggested to me that I need a heavier extension cord. The reed valve phenomenon is just plain puzzling. I doesn't appear to be leaking air but maybe that piston isn't contributing anything either. Pulling the head for a look see will just be opening Pandora's box as I'm sure the head gaskets won't survive. If it will pressure up to 100 psi consistently without tripping the breaker I would call it good enough. 20 gal at 100 psi available.
So you are out in the garden shed with a 20A outlet & a “cheap” (meaning 14AWG?) 50 foot extension cord?
That will not work for your application. Yes, 12AWG wire is correct for 20A, but only for short runs. You need 10AWG for the longer branch circuits to carry the full 20A (that includes a 10AWG extension cord).
The breaker is doing exactly what it is designed to do: trip on thermal overload - which seems to be the problem with your application.
You also mention possible issues with the valves - that increases the run time of the motor and gives the wires more of a chance to heat up and trip the breaker.
That will not work for your application. Yes, 12AWG wire is correct for 20A, but only for short runs. You need 10AWG for the longer branch circuits to carry the full 20A (that includes a 10AWG extension cord).
The breaker is doing exactly what it is designed to do: trip on thermal overload - which seems to be the problem with your application.
You also mention possible issues with the valves - that increases the run time of the motor and gives the wires more of a chance to heat up and trip the breaker.
That about sums it up alright
I managed to get 220V out of the house from my basement shop. She pulled right through to 120 psi without tripping any breakers and the cheap 50 extension cord didn't feel warm at all. She does labor some at 120 psi.
Flogging a dead horse? Probably eh.
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I could live with 100 psi but I haven't figured out if this pressure switch is adjustable or not. Can't seem to get the cover off it and it's still on at 120 psi.
I would say at least 25-30 minutes. Things really slow down once that one cylinder drops out. I just ran it up from 120 psi to 140 psi, no trips but but I think the belt is starting to slip now.
I'll have to do this all again from scratch and time it. Maybe it just feels like 25-30 minutes but really isn't, watched kettle sort of thing LOL.
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OK, I timed it this time. 8 min to attain 0-100psi, another 2 min to reach 120 psi. At just over 140 psi the PRV let loose, it's rated for 160 psi according to what's stamped on it? At 120 psi the pressure switch hasn't closed but at 140 psi it has. I wonder if my gauge is out 10-20 lbs?
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It won't unscrew. it just spins and spins as if the threads are stripped? What about the PRV blowing off just above 140 psi as indicated by the gauge?
Pushing things a little further. 3 min to go from 120 psi to 140 psi and once again the PRV let loose at 140 psi and the pressure switch closed the motor circuit. If I was to believe the PRV then my pressure gauge is out 20 psi and the pressure switch has been fiddled with.
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The bolt just spins and spins in either direction, never tightens up?
So the switch is adjustable?
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