It almost sounds like your check valve is faulty or somehow inverted or tube issue - something not allowing air to flow into tank normal? As soon as the piston sees any appreciable pressure build which would happen rapidly +/- some blowby & tube fill-up, it dead heads & locks up. That would explain low 20 psi pressure, breaker going & wheel locking up. Any way to just (safely) flow it through a regular hose into your spare tank with gauge to temporarily remove the check valve from flow circuit?
Here’s some pictures of my check valve.
This is the bottom(tank end) of the valve.
View attachment 16861
Here I’m holding the valve open with a nail. You can see the bleed hole on the flat of the hex.
View attachment 16860
And here is a #72 drill in the bleed port.
View attachment 16859
Maybe It’s the lack of a flywheel?
It worked well enough to determine the tank on it leaked. I actually picked it up just for the tank which is now my aluminum melting furnace.That's what I'm starting to think. Do know if the head you have is functional?
I don't know these units very well but (generically) isn't there a valve assembly in the head? If those were faulty, would that exhibit some of these issues?
What size breaker are you using it sounds like maybe go up one.
Do you have a picture of the motor data plate?
How far is the 20A plug from the breaker panel?
What size wire is between the 20A panel breaker and the plug?
A 2hp motor on 120V is pushing a 20A circuit - especially on a compressor.
Looks like the circuit is correct for 20A, 120V.
I think the breaker is tripping because of the internal thermal protection since you have to run the motor for some time.
You have a way to measure the current?
Any way you can connect to a 240V circuit (change the wiring in the motor to correspond) to see if that would work?