Mine came with Alibre way back.
I think it costs money now but I don't know how much.
-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
What's Paul up to?
- Thread starter PaulL
- Start date
I think it costs money now but I don't know how much.
Here's a program on LMS for milling/drilling/turning speeds, it's been my goto since I came across it a couple of years ago.
littlemachineshop.com
Speeds & Feeds
The premier source of tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists.
Here's a program on LMS for milling/drilling/turning speeds, it's been my goto since I came across it a couple of years ago.
Speeds & Feeds
The premier source of tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists.
Thanks! I'll check it out.
Yesterday was a much better evening in the shop. I got the holder holder remade:
Ditched the aluminium, found a short piece of 4140 that used to be a guillotine tool in my forge but hasn't seen use since I re-did that tooling for the power hammer.
Much easier to set up and feels properly solid.
Ditched the aluminium, found a short piece of 4140 that used to be a guillotine tool in my forge but hasn't seen use since I re-did that tooling for the power hammer.
Much easier to set up and feels properly solid.
It runs alone but does appear to have been linked to Alibre.I can't find it alone. Apparently it comes with other software you buy.
View attachment 29377
Ok, It appears that I'm now sharpening with that thing:
Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:
For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:
I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.
Paul
Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:
For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:
I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.
Paul
I think you need a finer stone. I'd also take a look at a brand new mill with the same tooth profile and see if they don't tilt the cutter for a different angle pass with the stone.Ok, It appears that I'm now sharpening with that thing:
Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:
View attachment 29531
For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:
I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.
Paul
DPittman
Ultra Member
You might try buffing the burr off the sharpened edge of the endmill with a cloth wheel or maybe even a wire wheel?Ok, It appears that I'm now sharpening with that thing:
Drills seem to work well enough. I'm wondering if there's a finer grain of wheel I should be working with.
Next was the ends of an end mill, which worked but has some issues:
View attachment 29531
For one thing, the stone now looks *very* coarse for the work. The second is that this end mill has these little extra flutes at the outside, which in a single-pass grid wind up a bit lower than the adjacent part of the face nearer the center. This leaves tracks:
I'm not sure what the solution is. Use a much steeper aproach angle so the adjacent face is lower? Pre-grind some back clearance?
The bit works better than before I attacked it, so that's a positive - I can certainly use it for hogging material again. But I'd like to do a better job.
Paul
Anyone have any experience with these: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...and-wheel-dressers/76621-cbn-grinding-wheels?
I'm honestly not too sure what to try for a better grinding wheel.
I'm honestly not too sure what to try for a better grinding wheel.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
@PaulL CBN wheels are better at some stuff, and not as good on other stuff. For instance, I understand that you cannot grind soft steels on them. They are good for grinding carbide and HSS.
If you are grinding hard stuff a lot, I'd choose silicon carbide (green wheels).
For grinding HSS drills and end mills I'd choose a 100 grit AO wheel with open structure, vitreous bonded (Present terminology may differ)
If you are grinding hard stuff a lot, I'd choose silicon carbide (green wheels).
For grinding HSS drills and end mills I'd choose a 100 grit AO wheel with open structure, vitreous bonded (Present terminology may differ)
I think you have a rigidity issue between your jig and the grinder. I added the simple HH endmill sharpener jig to my grinder and haven't seen that kind of surface finish with the standard wheel that came with my PA grinder.
Sharpening End Mills 1
Design for, and method of making and using, an attachement for the Off Hand grinder for sharpening the end cutting edges of an end mill.
Last edited:
Ok, tomorrow's plan is increasing the rigidity of the grinder itself, which is just on a rubber pad. I'll tap the steel bench it's sitting on and report back.I think you have a rigidity issue between your jig and the grinder. I added the simple HH endmill sharpener jig to my grinder and haven't see that kind of surface finish with the standard wheel that came with my PA grinder.
Sharpening End Mills 1
Design for, and method of making and using, an attachement for the Off Hand grinder for sharpening the end cutting edges of an end mill.homews.co.uk
Yeah, that flat thing is exactly what I have. And I see the star type are cheaper than my time typing this. I'll try one.
Am I missing something here? I use a diamond embedded in the tip of a steel bar. I put a war hold on it and run it back and forth guided by a flat edge.
best thing I've read today. Thank-you for the smile.