-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
What's Paul up to?
- Thread starter PaulL
- Start date
That's a word I don't know. A quick search looks promising - I was thinking about what it would take to jig up a single point cutter, but this seems much more reasonable.
I like the table. Is that an iron worker in the background? And a Fronius welder? Tell us more about those!
I wish! No, the photo is by the seller who has the most beautiful hobby shop I've ever seen. The table is sitting in a friend's works yard until I get some barge space to bring it over.
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
Nice score on the acorn. Always wanted one, but have nowhere to put it except outside behind the shop.
For flattening you could look into live edge slab flattening jig with a router to spur some creativity. Perhaps an angle grinder mounted that way with a flap disc. Won't be near as flat as with a blanchard, but you could make it very useable.
You could also borrow the technique from scraping, where you blue up the surface and take a print from a straightedge and spot grind the high spots. No reason that wont work, it would just take longer. At it's core it's simply measuring, marking, and removing material, just applied a different way than scraping. "Bluing" could be a light dusting of spray paint, and marking could be sliding a section of acceptably straight small ibeam/flat bar across the plate to take off the high spots of paint. Then just spot grind the shiney spots with a flap wheel, until you have a surface that is acceptable for you.
For flattening you could look into live edge slab flattening jig with a router to spur some creativity. Perhaps an angle grinder mounted that way with a flap disc. Won't be near as flat as with a blanchard, but you could make it very useable.
You could also borrow the technique from scraping, where you blue up the surface and take a print from a straightedge and spot grind the high spots. No reason that wont work, it would just take longer. At it's core it's simply measuring, marking, and removing material, just applied a different way than scraping. "Bluing" could be a light dusting of spray paint, and marking could be sliding a section of acceptably straight small ibeam/flat bar across the plate to take off the high spots of paint. Then just spot grind the shiney spots with a flap wheel, until you have a surface that is acceptable for you.
Last edited:
I'm with what @Dan Dubeau suggested. Use the same approach that you'd use with a router and a couple of rails clamped to the sides along with a carriage. But instead of a router some sort of grinder. It will be slow and tedious until the really high points are gone but then as you go over the table and the grinder is touching more of the table you will see more results.
A power feed on both axis would also make this much easier. There's no real load so a stepper motor to planetary reduction to chain drive. Z axis is the one that moves the carriage. X axis is the one that moves the grinder across. Manually set the height for each pass. I'd use my ELS for that.
Or just connect a PC with a parallel port and MACH3 along with a G-Code program to mill a large flat surface.
Grab a coke and sit and watch it.
A power feed on both axis would also make this much easier. There's no real load so a stepper motor to planetary reduction to chain drive. Z axis is the one that moves the carriage. X axis is the one that moves the grinder across. Manually set the height for each pass. I'd use my ELS for that.
Or just connect a PC with a parallel port and MACH3 along with a G-Code program to mill a large flat surface.
Grab a coke and sit and watch it.
Do you have more info - or a picture- of this angle grinder modification?
Tks
As I understand it, it's sort of grinding in the side of the wheel instead of its circumference or edge.
This is NOT a Blanchard Grinder but I think it's the basic idea that you are looking for when you ask about adapting an angle grinder.
Yes, I'd guess that this is a requirement. It's that or go shroudless. I don't think many of us have significant interest in that.
I'd bet that the real deal is lower rpm too so I'd be wanting variable speed too.
If you are gunna try to make one keep us all informed!
In the smithy this morning while thinking about Blanchard grinding setups.
Pretty chuffed at hitting my dimension on this corner. The overall length is 12 1/2", leaving 1/2" for the tenon on the other end for an overall 12" frame length. I haven't done one of these in probably 15 years, and even then just a couple bad ones.
Time for lunch.
Pretty chuffed at hitting my dimension on this corner. The overall length is 12 1/2", leaving 1/2" for the tenon on the other end for an overall 12" frame length. I haven't done one of these in probably 15 years, and even then just a couple bad ones.
Time for lunch.
No, I had Adam at South Island Lift pick it up and drop it. Sadly he's moving up-island, so it will be harder to move it to its next spot.
In any case, I think the surfacing is going to happen *right there*. I can catch the slurry in some tarp to keep from being too messy, I think.
Right, I recognize Adam's truck. Too bad he's moving
Exciting!It's here. It has a certain gravitas.
