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What Size Hook/Pin Wrench Do I Need?

@PeterT , @YotaBota , @thestelster The problem I'm having is removing the whole assembly (chuck and back plate) from a threaded spindle. There are no flats to employ a wrench.
Could you have a couple of holes on the face of the backing plate?

Edit...never mind it looks like you've got your problem solved a better way. I just didn't read far enough ahead before responding.
 
Could you have a couple of holes on the face of the backing plate?

Edit...never mind it looks like you've got your problem solved a better way. I just didn't read far enough ahead before responding.

I considered that solution, but wrote if off. What did you have in mind?
 
I wonder if it would be better to drill a hole in the C frame & insert a dowel stub? That way it would be round peg in a round hole, be replaceable & maybe harder/stronger material
 

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So I use a morse taper collet holder in my little lathe and the lathe is belt driven so has no back gears or index pin I can lock to hold the spindle in one spot. The lathe also has a weird bolt on method of holding a regular chuck that comprises of the spindle having the backing plate that the chuck bolts onto. I simply made a pin wrench to fit those holes in the spindle plate to hold while I use the collet spanner.
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So I use a morse taper collet holder in my little lathe and the lathe is belt driven so has no back gears or index pin I can lock to hold the spindle in one spot. The lathe also has a weird bolt on method of holding a regular chuck that comprises of the spindle having the backing plate that the chuck bolts onto. I simply made a pin wrench to fit those holes in the spindle plate to hold while I use the collet spanner.View attachment 28078View attachment 28079

This approach occurred to me after I had started this thread. There are actually 4 unthreaded holes available on the front face of the chuck mounting plate. Maybe that's what they are for? So that's called a pin wench?
 
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How would you cut one? I have 3/8 and 1/4 plate but have been perplexed as to how to cut one out per say.

whittle it out with mill and rotary table....or I've chain drilled, hack sawed and filed stuff like that...but its about 1000x easier if you have a friend with a cnc plasma. Agree with Peter on the pin, no welding? just loctite it
 
Pin is .270x.390, should be close enough for the purpose

I don't think a hardened pin for something like this is a good idea, if anything you want the pin to deform long before the pocket, it's a lot easier to make a new wrench/weld on a new pin than it is to fix a warlord out hole, usually anyways

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I don't think a hardened pin for something like this is a good idea, if anything you want the pin to deform long before the pocket, it's a lot easier to make a new wrench/weld on a new pin than it is to fix a warlord out hole, usually anyways

I like the way you think. And I agree.

I think the only good reason for a hardened pin is to make it a bit stronger. And it doesn't need to be really hard to be stronger. In fact a very tiny OD increase would add significant strength.
 
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Don't pin wrenches usually cover 180º instead of 90º of the circle? The ones I have are like that at least. I think they would be easier to pull on that way. Cut it out with a vertical bandsaw? If you haven't made got this done yet Craig you're welcome to come by and use my bandsaw.

EDIT -> Oh i see you're already done. Very nice. simple and it works.
 
Don't pin wrenches usually cover 180º instead of 90º of the circle? The ones I have are like that at least. I think they would be easier to pull on that way. Cut it out with a vertical bandsaw? If you haven't made got this done yet Craig you're welcome to come by and use my bandsaw.

EDIT -> Oh i see you're already done. Very nice. simple and it works.

Hook wrenches are usually more than 90, but not 180, probabaly more like 120, probabaly cam themselves out if just 90


I don't know if you could get a pin wrench in if it were 180 and had a tight fitting pin

Anyways pin wrenches are sold 90
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