General observations: 1) Don't care for the rear facing exhaust port. The reason this is an issue is because the barrel of the body is so short, it exhausts between your third finger & your pinky, which can get cold. You can rotate the port, but then it exhausts into the palm of your hand or into your face. I would have preferred a front exhaust. Not worth losing a point over, but an annoyance. 2) As noted above, it's quite noisy. I rarely wear ear protection on a die grinder unless I'm going to spend some time on it. With this, I wore hearing protection. 3) The guide plate that rides the material you are chamfering is small, about 1-7/8" diameter. With less than half of that on the material, it's sometimes difficult to keep it flat on the surface. The plus side to this is that you can get into some fairly tight places with no interference from the guide plate. 4) It fits well in my hand & the throttle is placed nicely. You grab the tool & it just works. 5) It was leaking a very small amount of air internally at rest. I'll have to watch that to see if it improves or not. 6) A hex wrench for depth adjustments, a Torx wrench to change out bearings (2 extra) & bits (4 extra), an extra o-ring for the air fitting and a parts breakdown accompanied the unit.
The good: 1) This thing works like a hot damn. Edged a 1/2" steel plate quickly & efficiently. That's what it's supposed to do. 2) As I noted, a bonus of two extra cutters were in the bag.
The bad: 1) No instructions. Can you figger it out? Sure, but I loosened the screw on the label & tried to adjust the depth of cut there before I figgered out it was the actual ring that needed loosening & adjusting. 2) The depth scale on the ring seems to indicate 1/10 of a mm. However, if you decide that you want to trim more than a mm, you need to keep count of how many times you've rotated the adjuster ring past 360 degrees. One rotation, 2 rotations, plus the tenths. 3) The machine screw to change the bearing/cutter is a Philips head. I hate Phillips screws. The wrench they included for that is a Torx. WTF? 4) As noted, a type M air chuck was included. If you have M air fittings, you're golden. If not, you soon discover that the air inlet thread is not a pipe taper, but an o-ring fitting and the air inlet is plastic. You don't dare screw in a 1/4 NPT fitting of your choice for fear of cracking the air inlet. As such, you'll need to buy/make a whip adapter, unless you want to change chucks every time you use it.
Final score: 4/5. It lost a point between that Phillips screw and the air chuck issue. The rest of the tool is metal, I'd have preferred a metal air inlet threaded 1/4 NPT. We'll see how the tool performs over time & update accordingly. I don't expect to use this a ton, but I appreciate the utility thereof nonetheless.
