quitereal
Andy
Definitely check this
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Rebuilding a 10" Standard Modern Utilathe
- Thread starter skippyelwell
- Start date
skippyelwell
Super User
No steel or sheer pins, the gear is attached to the sliding boss with 4 machine screws, the sliding boss is keyed to the shaft so the gear teeth are the weak link.
You can see in these 2 pics how the gear is attached, it is a 37 tooth.
@Brent H, thanks for identifying that gear for me and the other info, I'll get you all those dimensions later today. The OD will be an estimate based on the height of the teeth of the matching gear.
You can see in these 2 pics how the gear is attached, it is a 37 tooth.
@Brent H, thanks for identifying that gear for me and the other info, I'll get you all those dimensions later today. The OD will be an estimate based on the height of the teeth of the matching gear.
Attachments
skippyelwell
Super User
As a fellow who frequently repairs farm equipment, this is one of four problems I see all the time. Guys make substandard brass, aluminium, or plastic gears instead of steel, or they use regular bolts instead of grade 5 as shear pins, or they put a bigger fuse in, or they apply insufficient or excessive torque. All four are guaranteed problems in the near future.
Be careful with cheap belts, I've had some terrible ones from Crappy Tire. If the profile is not very consistent, it's like it the belt gets tighter as a wider section travels over the pulley and you get lots of vibration. Take some calipers and measure the width for consistency when buying it or better still stick to quality brands from an industrial supplier or a link belt.
Brent H
Ultra Member
@skippyelwell - the #6 gear is a solid lump of steel and slides onto the drive shaft - held in place with a 3/16 woodruff key I believe. I made it April 3rd 2022 here are some pics.
I should have dimensions drawn up somewhere- I have a few more note books to check.
I should have dimensions drawn up somewhere- I have a few more note books to check.
skippyelwell
Super User
OK Brent so that confirms it, my phenolic gear is a repair, the teeth must have been mash up and someone cut the gear down to accept the new replacement.
So why did you make another double gear unit? The original looks to be in usable condition.
Want to sell it???????
So why did you make another double gear unit? The original looks to be in usable condition.
Want to sell it???????
Brent H
Ultra Member
I made the gear, shaft and a couple other parts for Matt. Not sure of his handle on here. He has all the original parts and he dropped off the full gearbox so I could make sure it all worked properly. The lower end gear works were very worn on his machine - certainly not in the same condition you have.
I have the 4140 stock and gear cutters. Just need the time. Lathes and mill ready - just me
Perhaps Matt is watching- not sure - will search my links and he maybe able to help?
I have the 4140 stock and gear cutters. Just need the time. Lathes and mill ready - just me
Perhaps Matt is watching- not sure - will search my links and he maybe able to help?
skippyelwell
Super User
update, stripped down to bare metal, man I hate drive screws, such pain to get them out.
Not really the colour I wanted, thought it would be darker but it will make me clean it more.
I thought I would give the thin plastic wipers a try, felt always seem to collect and hold metal shavings against the ways, dragging them back and forth.
Not really the colour I wanted, thought it would be darker but it will make me clean it more.
I thought I would give the thin plastic wipers a try, felt always seem to collect and hold metal shavings against the ways, dragging them back and forth.
Attachments
skippyelwell
Super User
I installed the new bearings so the spindle could go in and I finally get a measurement of how much needs to be removed from the base of the donor tailstock, 1.0185".
I think it makes more sense to remove material from the top of the base so once it is down to the right height all that needs doing is cutting the slot for the side to side locator.
Should I cut it 20 thou deeper than needed so I can shim it up if need be?
It looks like it should be a pretty straight forward job (says the greenhorn), think I can pull this off?
I think it makes more sense to remove material from the top of the base so once it is down to the right height all that needs doing is cutting the slot for the side to side locator.
Should I cut it 20 thou deeper than needed so I can shim it up if need be?
It looks like it should be a pretty straight forward job (says the greenhorn), think I can pull this off?
Attachments
TorontoBuilder
Sapientia et Doctrina Stabilitas
looking great!
skippyelwell
Super User
I though about just using a roughing end mill but that will be a lot of chips, I might try the portable bandsaw to cut the first 3/4" off then do the rest on the mill.
skippyelwell
Super User
I hauled out my crappy old Princess Auto portable band saw and removed 2/3rds of the cast iron, unfortunately the base is just bit too wide for the band saw so all the material in the center will have to be machined off.
Because this tailstock is a donor from another lathe the wear pattern is slightly different so had to machine off the area that was sitting a 1/32" higher than the rest of the flat.
So I'm planning on using a 4 flute roughing end mill to remove all the big stuff and a regular 4 fluted end mill to finish it off the final finish.
Is there a better cutting bit to use that will produce a finer surface?
Because this tailstock is a donor from another lathe the wear pattern is slightly different so had to machine off the area that was sitting a 1/32" higher than the rest of the flat.
So I'm planning on using a 4 flute roughing end mill to remove all the big stuff and a regular 4 fluted end mill to finish it off the final finish.
Is there a better cutting bit to use that will produce a finer surface?
I would suggest a fly cutter or a face mill for the final passes to get it flat and a better finish.
I've had a few Standard Modern lathes in my life. On my third, and I love it (13" 2000 series). I did what I though was a full restoration, but WOW!!! This is IMPRESSIVE. You should be very proud of what you're accomplishing here. You'll have the newest and nicest Utilathe in Canada.... maybe the world.
With my first one I had a missing tooth on the bull gear, I pinned and filed it. Ran perfect for years after that. With the current one I had to build a tail stock quill for it. Fun project. Thanks for adding some great photos and info to the fourm!
With my first one I had a missing tooth on the bull gear, I pinned and filed it. Ran perfect for years after that. With the current one I had to build a tail stock quill for it. Fun project. Thanks for adding some great photos and info to the fourm!