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[Doggggboy]

Creepage Yikes

Clean the board, check the diodes SCR's, and potentiometer. Replace the 150 and 820 and whatever else let go and you should be good to go.

Digi-Key has S6010LSTP in stock, looks to be about a $10 or less repair, they ship FedEx overnight for $8, delivery next day by noon.

It does look a little more burnt up than I initially thought.
I'm going to put it back together again for now, as it still does mostly work, just no speed control.
When the new one comes, I'll swap them and try to fix the old one as a spare.
Thanks for the help, everybody.

 

[van123d]

The photo slow-poke posted of the good board has a 3.3k ohm resistor in the 333 spot instead of your 400ohm. That was what was throwing me off on the naming convention. That’s a big value change.

As he said, resistors don’t typically fail on their own. Something is likely failed shorted to ground. I would be checking those diodes at the top in the other area where the board is burned.

Well actually I would just put the new board in and never look at this again. If a replacement is cheap and easy enough to find then just swap it and be done with it.

I have a similar project to deal with that unfortunately no replacement board available. It’s the DSP board for my nieces electric piano. Something failed and took out a trace and about 20 small surface mount components. Not looking forward to going through that one.

 

[Doggggboy]

Well actually I would just put the new board in and never look at this again. If a replacement is cheap and easy enough to find then just swap it and be done with it.

Amen to that.
I've already got a large stack of busted-ass electrical stuff that is waiting until I manage to learn something useful about repairing busted-ass electrical stuff.

 

[Doggggboy]

Creepage Yikes

Clean the board, check the diodes, SCR's, and potentiometer. Replace the 150 and 820 and whatever else let go and you should be good to go.

Digi-Key has S6010LSTP in stock, looks to be about a $10 or less repair, they ship FedEx overnight for $8, delivery next day by noon.

Sounds like shorted SCR(s), does it go full speed in both directions?

It does, just no speed control.
The new board came off the boat last week and popped right in. I now have speed control but no turbo button for fast travel. I may have just made a poor connection on that button but frankly, don't care.
Thanks for all the help, gents.

 

[MrWhoopee]

I think the typical mill has different risks. The lower rotating mass is less likely to break gears, but even so, a VFD solves the problem on a mill too.

As a hot, young apprentice, I had a bunch of 1/4-20 through holes to D&T. After about 20 of them, I decided to pick up the pace. I was drilling at 1200 rpm, so why not tap at that speed? Three threads from the end I would throw the mill into reverse. Fred came out of the office and nearly had a stroke, but I made great time.