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Parker Majestic refurb

Seeing the links provided by others for constant force springs makes me think maybe the alloy / heat treat is important. The shim stock is stainless I believe but I didn't check much more.
Maybe with some searching you can find exactly what you need in proper width.
 
KBC has .010 shim stock in 25' rolls though it's only 1/2' wide. I think that could actually work as its secured on a pin and clamped really well at both ends
 
Does it have to coil like the Mcmaster link Brent included? If so I have a feeling shim stock might be hardened & too stiff? I think I have some .005" thick & its in a ~ 6x6" box with some tension. When you unwind a section it really wants to be flat.
 
PeterT said:
Does it have to coil like the Mcmaster link Brent included? If so I have a feeling shim stock might be hardened & too stiff? I think I have some .005" thick & its in a ~ 6x6" box with some tension. When you unwind a section it really wants to be flat.
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Right now they don't coil, they are just laying out flat. It's actually a problem because they want to unwind from the hub leading to a big snarl when I'm trying to put it together. I spent a bunch of Friday afternoon wrestling with them.
Something that coiled around the hub would actually be helpful I think.
 
I just measured the straps. One is 34" long the other is 54" long.
The ends that attach to the table have never been wound around the hub and are completely flat. So that leads me to think that they start out flat.
It can also be bent somewhat easily unlike blue steel such as this
Either this shim stock on a roll or the SS strapping (thanks @RobinHood) are the closest matches I've seen so far.|
This strapping might also work.
 
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@David_R8 : this may seem too Captain Obvious to work but what about a tape measure? you can get stainless ones or even quality steel surveyor tape measures 3/4" wide. Not sure on the thickness, but they are designed for many cycles of roll up, roll out, etc? Just a thought?
 
Brent H said:
@David_R8 : this may seem too Captain Obvious to work but what about a tape measure? you can get stainless ones or even quality steel surveyor tape measures 3/4" wide. Not sure on the thickness, but they are designed for many cycles of roll up, roll out, etc? Just a thought?
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Definitely not too Captain Obvious as it’s something I thought of once I saw those coiled springs.

I have a junk 25 ft tape measure that I might disassemble and try.

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Brent H said:
@David_R8 : looking at the Parker Majestic website they say they will rebuild old machines to OEM spec. They should be able to supply you with the tape?

There is this at McMaster : https://www.mcmaster.com/2416K54/

Not that it helps if you cannot buy it - but "Steel Foil" seems to be another buzz word in the search
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I sent P-M an email on Friday afternoon, after business hours down East. Hopefully I will get a repky tomorrow. They have been very responsive so far.
I was awake at 0500 hrs today so was thinking that I'm going to try drilling new holes in the existing bands and see how that goes.
I also thought about using heavy clamps on the table ends of the bands to put tension on them so they don't unwind. On the right side I might add a bungee cord to the wall for additional tension and out to the drill press stand on the left.
Working alone, a guy's got to be creative!
 
Drilling holes in thin, semi hardened metal like that can be fun. I'd suggest a smaller size to start just in case you get the wonky oblong effect & have to dress it round with a Dremel stone. Sometimes those graduated step drills help.
 
francist said:
What size hole is required? I have an Atkins #5 butcher’s saw punch that might work as well.
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I haven’t measured it but I’d estimate it to be 3/16”?


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That’s what it looked like to me as well. My punch will make a 0.175” hole, so just under 3/16” ( 0.1875 ). At least that is the size of the slug that comes out — I’ll see if the actual hole is a shade larger. I’m in the shop anyway.

CFB8C3AC-0C96-4F70-BDEE-2661D4156AB6.jpeg
 
francist said:
That’s what it looked like to me as well. My punch will make a 0.175” hole, so just under 3/16” ( 0.1875 ). At least that is the size of the slug that comes out — I’ll see if the actual hole is a shade larger. I’m in the shop anyway.

View attachment 12176
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Gosh that’s kind Frank.


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Hmm, hole is 0.172” or 11/64”
I can’t get a #17 bit through and a #18 is slack, but an 11/64” is juuust right.
 
Darn! Oh well, if you still wanted to use it to punch an undersize hole and open up from that, it’s here and I’d happily let you try it if you wanted. Otherwise I’ll leave you to your own devices :)
 
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