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Machine Not sure I need a drill press anymore

Machine
I had a 22" inch floor mounted drill press. I let it go in favor of a vintage 11 inch model with an upgraded 3 phase motor a VFD and a keyless chuck. So far I have no regrets. It does most of what I need and is very convenient to use. For heavy drilling I have to revert to the Mill or Lathe. So far not that often. It's all about space and need.
 
jcdammeyer said:
I still use mine, sometimes more often than the mill. Especially for wood working since it's more in the wood shop than the metal shop area. I must admit I haven't used the hollow spindle and draw bar feature for MT-3 tooling since I got the mill.

And because I suffer from HSS (Horizontal Surface Syndrome) the base of the drill press is in use...

View attachment 59988
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That's just there for the rigidity and dampening properties of the cast iron....... Right? ....smart thinking ;)
 
Don Sipes said:
I had a 22" inch floor mounted drill press. I let it go in favor of a vintage 11 inch model with an upgraded 3 phase motor a VFD and a keyless chuck. So far I have no regrets. It does most of what I need and is very convenient to use. For heavy drilling I have to revert to the Mill or Lathe. So far not that often. It's all about space and need.
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That's not really a vote for doing without a drill press Don......

@skippyelwell - Good a place as any to say that you might not regret it if you used it as an opportunity to get a better drill press. I think that's what @Don Sipes was trying to say.
 
The DP is a time saver; I'd go nuts without one. There a so many times where the fastest approach is manually locating holes (layout, spot or transfer punches) in which case the fastest path to a hole is the DP. Even if using the mill to locate, I'll very often switch to the DP for finishing the job (say spot drilling on the mill then drill, counter, countersink on the DP) if there are a lot of holes.
 
StevSmar said:
Because the splayed legs always make it a pain to lift larger items. I’ve modified the shop crane for parallel legs. If it works I’ll post pictures.
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Ah yes, the splayed legs that always want to hit the lower control arms when removing an engine, I've cursed that more than a few times myself.
 
StevSmar said:
Because the splayed legs always make it a pain to lift larger items. I’ve modified the shop crane for parallel legs. If it works I’ll post pictures.
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skippyelwell said:
Ah yes, the splayed legs that always want to hit the lower control arms when removing an engine, I've cursed that more than a few times myself.
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We have had a few threads on that issue on the forum. Might be worth a search.

But I whole heartedly agree. Those splayed legs are a pain.

One of the threads on here came up with telescoping legs.
 
A weight box on the back would be nice for when you are too lazy to clean up under the lathe you want to pick up the end of. Short legs and a long arm comes in handy sometimes.
 
Another use for parallel legs:
If you have to split a tractor to do a clutch, take off the upright tower and you have a heavy duty platform on caster that will support a ton or more. Last time I split an IH 1206 I did this to support the motor end and it work very well to roll the front of the tractor ahead.
 
Ironman said:
Another use for parallel legs:
If you have to split a tractor to do a clutch, take off the upright tower and you have a heavy duty platform on caster that will support a ton or more. Last time I split an IH 1206 I did this to support the motor end and it work very well to roll the front of the tractor ahead.
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Anyone who has ever done this knows that the hard part isn't splitting it. The hard part is getting it back together......

I made a lift cart with V rollers that rolled on heavy angle iron laid out like a railway track on the floor. Worked really well.
 
Getting it together is tough but once I align the clutch and get the trans shaft started into it, I put ready-rod through the bell housing holes into the block and draw it together. As it enters the pilot bearing it helps to rock the crank or blip the starter. The long redi-rod helps to keep alignment. Once you draw them together, just put in the bolts.
 
Ironman said:
Getting it together is tough but once I align the clutch and get the trans shaft started into it, I put ready-rod through the bell housing holes into the block and draw it together. As it enters the pilot bearing it helps to rock the crank or blip the starter. The long redi-rod helps to keep alignment. Once you draw them together, just put in the bolts.
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Nice! I'll remember that trick.

Blipping starter was no good for me. Splines had a master key...... Fk.
 
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