Need help with drill spindle!

[DH930]

Hi everyone, I am restoring an old 1940s Walker Turner 900 drill press and I'm having issue with the spindle. I need some one in Calgary that is willing to help me with this. I am willing to pay with cash, beers or trade service for machine parts or tools. I live in Silver Spring NW. Anyone near me that have a metal lathe and would like to take on this small job? I need to mount the drill spindle on a metal lathe to remove the small bulge at both ends of the spindle. While on the lathe, I also need to check for the spindle straightness. It is a simple job but accuracy and precision is required in this job. I have included some photos to illustrate the problem.
Thanks,
Dai

 

[Janger]

Welcome DH. Looks like somebody has been hammering it?

 

[DH930]

Yes, it does and that can be a good news rather than the spindle is bent.

 

[Crosche]

Hi Dai,

I live in Huntington Hills, so not too far from you. You are welcome to bring the spindle over some time and we can have a look at it.

Cheers,

Chad

 

[DH930]

Great Chad, I will pm you. Thanks.

 

[YYCHM]

Hey Dai,

How about posting an image of the old 1940s Walker Turner 900 drill press. I'm interested to see what it looks like.

Craig

 

[DH930]

Here are some photos of the drill press. Not all pieces are attached. I have painted and have assembled the drill to only find that it is wobbling, so I taken the drill spindle apart again. The motor is not original because I wanted to control the speed of the drill electronically. I got a 1HP 3 phase motor which I use a controller to convert to 1 phase and variable speed. I will attach the controller box to the drill and install a speed reader to calculate the actual speed of the spindle.

I originally thought that the wobbling was due to the bearings fitting but after a closer look, it appeared that the spindle is a bit mangled. The old bearings were done and the replacement no longer available. The new bearing ID is .625" and the spindle OD is .620". In order to make up the differences, peoples have suggested to either use red locktite or to use primer painted on the spindle in the area where the beaings contact the spindle. It works pretty well until I have to disassembled them because of the wobble. I didn't wanted to use the locktite because how difficult it would be if I have to disassemble the spindle again. If anyone have better suggestion, I'm all ears.

 

[PeterT]

You've done a nice job on the restoration & motor upgrade. Good luck on the spindle. So if I understand, you want the mushroom enlargement areas taken down? And then your second issue is fitting a 0.625" ID bearing to what is 0.620"OD shaft? Can you show the areas where the bearings will reside.

About the only idea I have is making a sleeve out of shim stock, so that would be say 0.002" thickness to give you just a bit of slide fit to work with. Brass would curve reasonably well over the shaft. Even if the shim ends were not in direct contact (like a small slit of clearance) I don think that would be too bad from load standpoint. Steel shim would be more like the native material but harder to bend. Anyways, this might get your fits much closer within the acceptable gap range of Loktite or retaining compound. I might even have shim in that size, I can check.

 

[Tom O]

I've got a assortment of shim stock I can check too.

 

[YYCHM]

Powder Coat it???

 

[RobinHood]

Good job rebuilding the WT drill press - looks nice.

You could take a standard 6202 2RS (ID 15mm x OD 35mm x 11mm wide) deep groove ballbearing and open the bore to 15.75mm (0.620078”).

 

[YotaBota]

I wonder about a bearing with the same O.D. but a bit bigger I.D. that would allow enough room for a press fit bushing. Either pressed into the bearing or onto the shaft.

 

[PeterT]

I was wondering the same thing Rudy but I guessed it was N-Am machine, so then he might have a second problem of fitting 35mm (or whatever metric size) into what is probably the Imperial size CI housing. What is the best way to open up a bearing ID? I assumed very true running setup in lathe & toolpost grinder.... Do you have some simpler tricks?

I just rolled some 0.005" brass on .625 nylon bar stock as example. The general idea would be the band would be same width as bearing or maybe just a 1mm larger either side if that offers advantages. But then it might have to be a 2-stage process.
1 - Locktite the shim onto the shaft using the bearing as the clamp tool
2 - Loctite the shim onto the bearing ID using the arbor as the tool
If the arbor needs to slide in without any step protrusion, then I guess 2 would be better.
Never done this before so it could be totally sketch.

 

[RobinHood]

Maybe Dai can chime in to correct / confirm.

Info I saw regarding the W-T 900 DP spindle bearings was suggesting the OD was 35mm standard from factory.

It also stated that due to wartime shortages, W-T used whatever they could get their hands on and just modified the bearings to fit their machines. Hence my idea of a 6202.

Yes, dial the bearing in a 4J and tool post grind the ID. It would take a bit of time as just under 15thou per side needs to come out.

it‘s W-T item 30, PN 9D19E in this picture I believe - have not found a cross reference anywhere..

it might well be easier to go the shim / sleeve route....

 

[DH930]

Thank you for so many replies. I have included some documents and illustrations plus some of my own photos. I have included the specs for original bearings. The replacement bearings I have with OD matched perfectly but the ID required some shims or fixes. The pipe sleeve is fitted snug around the spindle spins freely inside the driver. The sleeve length is perfectly sized to hold the inner bearings in place inside the spindle driver part.

 

[DH930]

You've done a nice job on the restoration & motor upgrade. Good luck on the spindle. So if I understand, you want the mushroom enlargement areas taken down? And then your second issue is fitting a 0.625" ID bearing to what is 0.620"OD shaft? Can you show the areas where the bearings will reside.

About the only idea I have is making a sleeve out of shim stock, so that would be say 0.002" thickness to give you just a bit of slide fit to work with. Brass would curve reasonably well over the shaft. Even if the shim ends were not in direct contact (like a small slit of clearance) I don think that would be too bad from load standpoint. Steel shim would be more like the native material but harder to bend. Anyways, this might get your fits much closer within the acceptable gap range of Loktite or retaining compound. I might even have shim in that size, I can check.

Yes, you are correct. I wanted the bulge to be removed so that the chuck can fit snugly and centred to the spindle. As for the new bearings fitment issue, shim might works. Using loctite on the shim to spindle so that you can press the new bearings onto the spindle.

 

[DH930]

Powder Coat it???

I don't powder coat would work though.

 

[DH930]

Good job rebuilding the WT drill press - looks nice.

You could take a standard 6202 2RS (ID 15mm x OD 35mm x 11mm wide) deep groove ballbearing and open the bore to 15.75mm (0.620078”).

This would required precision work which I do not have the skill or the machine to do it. The OD would also have to be trimmed to 1.375". What I would love to have is someone to replicated the spindle so that the diameter is .625" from where the first bearing to the second bearing and then the pipe sleeves can be bore out just a tad to fit onto the new spindle. the rest of the spindle would have to be exact as original.

Correction: the outer diameter is 35mm so no need to trim it.

 

[DH930]

Maybe Dai can chime in to correct / confirm.

Info I saw regarding the W-T 900 DP spindle bearings was suggesting the OD was 35mm standard from factory.

It also stated that due to wartime shortages, W-T used whatever they could get their hands on and just modified the bearings to fit their machines. Hence my idea of a 6202.

Yes, dial the bearing in a 4J and tool post grind the ID. It would take a bit of time as just under 15thou per side needs to come out.

it‘s W-T item 30, PN 9D19E in this picture I believe - have not found a cross reference anywhere..

it might well be easier to go the shim / sleeve route....

You are correct. The OD is 35mm. During wartime, parts were difficult to come by so WT did have to use whatever parts that were available at the time. Your idea of using the metric bearing 6202 is a very good idea so if anyone can do the .75mm bore to bearings, is the winner! Who ever can do this, I can send the bearings to you including the original bearing for references and pay you for the labour/service and shipping cost back to me. Anyone?

 

[PeterT]

In this picture, would the assembly go like:
- install left bearing
- install pipe sleeve
- install right bearing
- install spindle driver part over this assembly

- is the sleeve an actual part or something you are wanting to adapt?
- does the end of sleeve rest on the inner bearing rings but basically slides on arbor shaft?
- what bearing number is the 'new' bearing you were referring to? 5/8" = 0.625" maybe? And that comes in 35mm OD?

- any chance you could go to a 17mm ID x 35mm OD bearing? Turning a ring with ~ .025" wall thickness (.620" ID x 0.669" OD x bearing width) is more do-able. Still a bit delicate but I think do-able.

- the brass shim stock kit I have is 0.001, 0.0015, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004...
So 0.002" would be likely thickness. It might work but it also might be a flaky solution.

 

[PeterT]

I think I understand now. The bulge is at the end of the taper section that fits the mating chuck seat taper? Do you think the majority of surface (green arrow) is in good shape, it has the proper taper etc? The gouges are not pretty but wont affect fit as long as green area OD is still true (circular & correct taper). If the spindle was held in lathe & the red area was carefully taken down to conform to green area, but not removing any green area, you stand a better chance of fitting the chuck taper ID. Right now the enlarged red area is interfering with the taper so it probably bottoms out & the chuck can hinge on some angle.

Now if the spindle was hammered laterally so the taper section is bent off-axis, that's not easy to 'un-do'.