• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Tool My most hated tool

Tool
I made one a few years ago but dispensed with the height adjustment since the body was made to fit an AXA toolpost. I adjust height by turning the brass T-knob on top of the body.
@eotrfish and @Mcgyver very nice on both versions.

It looks like you have some kind of cam action but I cant figure out what its adjusting. I guess I'll just have to wait for the drawings release LOL
1660156419346.webp


Do these style knurlers also benefit by having the stock diameter optimized to the wheel pitch like scissor/clamp style. Or is the cutting action different & so you can just give 'er?
 
This must be National Knurling Week - there is currently almost this same discussion going on at the HomeShopmachinist Forum. I found a youtuber that made a very much simplified, but apparently still very effective cut knurler:


I have only ever had a "push" type knurler, and while it works, it has too often felt like a struggle to get the results I wanted.
 
Boy, I'm tempted. Do the prices include shipping? How long did it take for the kit to arrive?
Shipping was extra by Canada Post I think around 12$. Shipping costs are calculated on the web site. As far as delivery time it was about 4-5 days.
 
Shipping was extra by Canada Post I think around 12$. Shipping costs are calculated on the web site. As far as delivery time it was about 4-5 days.

How long ago was that? CP shipping to AB came to $20. So $125 for the complete kit.
 
It looks like you have some kind of cam action but I cant figure out what its adjusting. I guess I'll just have to wait for the drawings release LOL
There is no cam action. The brass piece with an offset bore is the top cotter which locks the knurl bodies in place after you adjust the angle/spacing.

I felt that the height adjustment was an unnecessary complication so just went with the AXA height adjustment method.

Do you have a drawing and a parts list?

I can dig up the drawings and parts list but you're on your own to dimension the body to fit a BXA tool post:) I also have some extra pinion wire that I used to make the two internal gear shafts - free to anyone that wants to make one of these knurlers.

AXA 10.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ah, I thought that looked familiar. I used to visit his site often, some nice projects.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How long ago was that? CP shipping to AB came to $20. So $125 for the complete kit.
I ordered mine about 2 weeks ago.
If you go to Doug's site add the knurlier to the cart then proceed to check out. The postage will be calculated so you can see the total cost before you actually order. You can stop there, or continue on to payment, your option.
 
I ordered mine about 2 weeks ago.
If you go to Doug's site add the knurlier to the cart then proceed to check out. The postage will be calculated so you can see the total cost before you actually order. You can stop there, or continue on to payment, your option.

Ya, I ordered the kit but the postage came to $20 not $12?
 
There is no cam action. The brass piece with an offset bore is the top cotter which locks the knurl bodies in place after you adjust the angle/spacing.

The drawings of the original tool are available for download from https://thebloughs.net/series/cut-knurling-tool/

I felt that the height adjustment was an unnecessary complication so just went with the AXA height adjustment method.



I can dig up the drawings and parts list but you're on your own to dimension the body to fit a BXA tool post:) I also have some extra pinion wire that I used to make the two internal gear shafts - free to anyone that wants to make one of these knurlers.

View attachment 25491

In the Doug Gray video around 9:40, Doug points out that there is always a messed up margin at the beginning and end of the knurl. Ive never noticed that on my pressure knurler. But it has its own problems - mostly lousy knurls.

Does the cut knurler have this problem too?

 
Ah, I thought that looked familiar. I used to

There is no cam action. The brass piece with an offset bore is the top cotter which locks the knurl bodies in place after you adjust the angle/spacing.

The drawings of the original tool are available for download from https://thebloughs.net/series/cut-knurling-tool/

A dagger in my heart. I tried to stay silent on this as we're a polite and pleasant bunch here, but this one really irks (not at all directed toward eotrfish, but the drawing source)

I designed it and HSM published it. He copied it. There are scarcely small rewards for contributing to this hobby and scarcely few institutions/businesses bringing anything to table in support of the projects, knowledge, etc for the hobby. HSM is one.
It's cutting the legit designer and publisher off at knees by freely distributing their IP and denying the publisher the pittance for a subscription that allows for there to even be a mag serving the hobby. If everyone copied the content from the Mag and posted it there would be no maganzine and drawings and write ups like this would not exist.

The build log is great, but offering a set drawings? How is that not wrong? I doubt there was malice, but that doesn't change things. Not fair is not fair. It takes a huge amount of work to create and publish something like that. AFAIK he is not the designer of any of what he's posted/copied (e.g. the Snow engine was a series from Live Steam).

What would be your moral/ethical take on someone buying a set knurling tool drawings from Doug Gray, copying them, then posting them for free? Thats imo is the same as what this person is doing; he bought IP then set about to copy and freely distribute it.

btw, the off centre hole is not an eccentric. It was just a bit of space saving, making the unit more compact. It got rather crowded up there and this was explained in the article, it saved using a larger dia piece of brass which would make the head longer. As can be seen in my photo above, the piece with the off centre is a double cotter clamping the two rotating knurling spindles.

Mike

CaMRR07.jpg
 
Last edited:
A dagger in my heart. I tried to stay silent on this as we're a polite and pleasant bunch here, but this one really irks (not at all directed toward eotrfish, but the drawing source)

Mike

I am glad you wrote that @Mcgyver. I would never have known.

I share your views. Even patents don't protect you.

At least on here, those who read your post know your story.

I have numerous patents. Thankfully, I don't need to worry about defending them as I've sold all my rights and only collect royalties. Some of my work has been like yours. Contributions to a public effort published someplace in the hopes of selling subscriptions or even just free work to a common cause. Fundamentally, I understand your point. I won't order his drawings.

I confess though that I'm even struggling with understanding how the cutters work. I guess it's just not an intuitive process in my mind. I suspect that I'd probably need to actually see it cutting a part.

I do love the end result though - beautiful knurls. So I think it's worth trying to understand what those cutters are doing.
 
Last edited:
I had to design and make one because I didn't get it either :D

Now THAT is funny! It's amazing how that works sometimes. The things we all take for granted until we actually have to do it ourselves!

Please give me a hint. Does it just cut on the leading corner of the knurling wheels? Sorta like shearing?
 
Thanks....its a bit complex, but imo necessary to stop it being a complete pain to use as you need to make those adjustments each time you use it. A pic below of the simpler Mk I being used. The complexity came as a result of, sans those two adjustments, and me concluding "what a pita this is to use!". Pay me now or pay later sort of thing lol.

However don't let the complexity turn you away. While a complex project takes more time, there is no single set up, cut or op anyone wouldn't be able to do...and thats all any project is, a series of set ups and cuts.

dlxDNWa.jpg


The innards:

h5k4ocw.jpg
R
Now THAT is funny! It's amazing how that works sometimes. The things we all take for granted until we actually have to do it ourselves!

Please give me a hint. Does it just cut on the leading corner of the knurling wheels? Sorta like shearing?
Beautiful work. I learned something from this. Up until now I had never heard of cut knurling. I think for me I will try build my own scissor type. I don't do a lot of knurling so that should do.
 
Doug Ross made a very nice scissor style knurling tool. I think plans were available on Homemade Tools but its been a while since I looked

 
It's rewarding to DIY tools, but I don't see the point of the Gray kit. As far as I can see, it's only a bit more money to get an equivalent (better because the adjuster knob is 2x as large) Chinese-made scissor knurler from Little Machine Shop and theirs comes with a bunch of different knurling wheels.
The cut knurlers are a whole 'nother thang' - perhaps in the next life cycle, for me! :)
I agree about the problem of the knurler pressure trying to rotate the QCTP - that's true with the scissor type, too. (Carborundum powder under the QCTP helps...) The scissor knurlers DO put pressure on the machine -mostly the leadscrew nut (I don't worry about the spindle bearings which would be OK in most trucks...) as the 'squeezing' of the knurls makes them want to move/roll back toward the operator (or twist the QCTP, or both). Anyway, interesting discussion, so thanks to all.
 
Peter, thanks for passing that along. I've sent it to the editor, not sure if they can do anything. Disappointing. Seems like a lack of morals, and no shame about it.

Susquatch, The top roll acts kind of like a rotating tangential tool. The bottom roller is less clear, I think its action is a little different with the cutting face not the flat surface but the V's which notch a triangle out of the helical grooves created by the upper wheel. I use lots of coolant from a spray bottle to clear the chips (so the bearings don't last forever, but they are cheapo router bearings)
 
Back
Top