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Live center disassembly .

… or the point is not running true in its bearings.

If you have a TPG, you can use a cordless drill with an O-ring to spin the center and re-grind the 60* point while it is turning in its bearings. Works very well and the point is now absolutely running true to the bearing center line. (You do this with the live center installed in the tail stock, the TPG on the compound set to 30*).
 
… or the point is not running true in its bearings.

If you have a TPG, you can use a cordless drill with an O-ring to spin the center and re-grind the 60* point while it is turning in its bearings. Works very well and the point is now absolutely running true to the bearing center line. (You do this with the live center installed in the tail stock, the TPG on the compound set to 30*).
Yes I've read about that and sounds like a fairly easy thing to do with perfect results. I lack the toolpost grinder otherwise I'd give it a whirl.
 
What ridges are you talking about? The grooves in the nose piece itself?

I think those can happen when a part slips in the chuck, or the tailstock backs off a bit, or a lot of pressure is applied to the center against a sharp edged hole, or a heavy part starts vibrating, or when you are parting and the end piece starts wobbling just before falling off, or when the live center doesn't spin, etc etc

Hope that's what you are asking about.
Yes, helpful.

And of course the one I just remembered: touching the centre with the back of the tool when trying to face the piece when it is between centres.
 
If you have a TPG, you can use a cordless drill with an O-ring to spin the center and re-grind the 60* point while it is turning in its bearings.

I don't have a TPG "yet". Too scared of damaging my ways. Gunna look to see if there are any dedicated threads for that already and if not, I'll start one.

Edit - Didn't find a thread on it, just a few references. Rather than hijack this thread, I started a new one.

 
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Grinding dust just needs to be controlled when using a TPG on the lathe. Many ways of doing that: cover everything, use a vacuum, use coolant, etc.
 
Is there any reason I should not replace the rubber shielded bearing with a steel shielded one?

SOP for me are new(er) low friction sealed bearings. What are you comparing is shielded vs sealed. It used to be a choice between shielded having lower friction and less than ideal sealing and sealed having a good seal but higher friction. The 2RSL ones (part of the part number) are the best of both worlds. For deep groove BB's, I wouldn't buy anything else.

Also note when packing a bearing (greasing), the bearing shouldn't be filled more than 1/3 with grease. pumping it full via a zerk will lead to problems - overheating. If the grease is gone/filthy probably time to replace the bearings anyway and with deep groove ball bearings, quality ones aren't that expensive.
 
Grinding dust just needs to be controlled when using a TPG on the lathe. Many ways of doing that: cover everything, use a vacuum, use coolant, etc.
Its been my observation that the actual grinding creates very little abrasive dust. Examine the sludge you get from grinding (what a charmed life I lead), its metal particles as far as I can see. That's supported by observing just how slowly a typical wheel wears (not one of the highly friable ones). Dressing otoh.....thats a fog and shower of grit at the same time.

As such, I'll (depending on the machine) try to contain the grit from dressing with a carboard box or something, but I also rarely grind on the lathe. When I do its covered in paper towels held by pot magnets (less dangerous than rags)
 
SOP for me are new(er) low friction sealed bearings. What are you comparing is shielded vs sealed. It used to be a choice between shielded having lower friction and less than ideal sealing and sealed having a good seal but higher friction. The 2RSL ones (part of the part number) are the best of both worlds. For deep groove BB's, I wouldn't buy anything else.

Also note when packing a bearing (greasing), the bearing shouldn't be filled more than 1/3 with grease. pumping it full via a zerk will lead to problems - overheating. If the grease is gone/filthy probably time to replace the bearings anyway and with deep groove ball bearings, quality ones aren't that expensive.
That's good info I didn't know. Thank you.
 
I don't have a TPG "yet". Too scared of damaging my ways. Gunna look to see if there are any dedicated threads for that already and if not, I'll start one.

Edit - Didn't find a thread on it, just a few references. Rather than hijack this thread, I started a new one.

My opinion is that most hobbyist won't be doing extensive day after day tool post grinding and that they should have the abilities to prevent serious abrasive dust contamination and also be able to do the cleanup flowing the occasional grinding job.
 
Also note when packing a bearing (greasing), the bearing shouldn't be filled more than 1/3 with grease. pumping it full via a zerk will lead to problems - overheating.
I find that surprising, why do they over heat? So on many trailers axles it is now common to have ez-lube hubs which does exactly that...fill the bearing chalk full of grease until it squirts out. They do not seem to be a problem (at least in my experience).
 
I find that surprising, why do they over heat? So on many trailers axles it is now common to have ez-lube hubs which does exactly that...fill the bearing chalk full of grease until it squirts out. They do not seem to be a problem (at least in my experience).

I think perhaps he doesn't mean overheating the bearing, but the grease itself. If you get too much grease in there and it gets hot, it will expand and having no airspace to expand into it will have no place to go but to be forced to come out in places you might not want. That's not a problem in a trailer wheel. But that's just a guess on my part.
 
I find that surprising, why do they over heat? So on many trailers axles it is now common to have ez-lube hubs which does exactly that...fill the bearing chalk full of grease until it squirts out. They do not seem to be a problem (at least in my experience).

This gets wordy, but I'll try and explain so it all makes sense.....

Grease is basically soap and oil. What lubricates a bearing is the wee bit oil that seeps/is squeezed out of the grease while the bulk of the grease is suppose to be pushed to the sidelines and is essentially a container for the oil. More than a 1/3 fill doesn't let the happen - there isn't enough room for the grease to be pushed to the side and its churned constantly. The problem comes from the fact the fluids have shear - the churning takes a bit of energy which gets translated into heat and the whole bearing heats up.

To reinforce the idea that the grease is not the lubricant, just the holder of the oil that is the lubricant, consider oil lubed bearings. They are the same bearing, but when lubbed with oil only, their speed ratings are much higher. Because there is a lot less shear and hence heat. Somewhat counter intuitively, even then less is more. One production machine I was recently working on recommended a squirt of oil every week!

Its not insignificant. SKF says, overfilling bearings accounts for over a 1/3 of premature bearing failures. Keep in mind, if over filled it may still work, but does it work for its expected life span? None of us has time or the inclination to monitor that so we rely on the bearing co's advice which is universal - they all say the same thing as will any account of how to correctly fill bearings. Here's SKF's book for example, packed with good bearing info. https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/...ce-handbook---10001_1-EN(1)_tcm_12-463040.pdf lubrication starts at page 180

Why do the the trailer bearings work with the full fill? Maybe a combination of things. First off, overfilling doesn't mean it won't work, it means it reduces its service life. Unless a commercial trailer, I suspect infrequent use means reaching their expected life span might be decades so who's noticing if its cut 40%? Also, they run at a slower speed compared that what they are capable of- maybe what, 800-1000 rpm? They are also in a less tolerance sensitive situation than a lathe centre. It might also be that it is a dirty, hostile environment and overfilling has function of flushing out contaminants which are the greater evil. Might also be that they fail from contaminates long before they would from overheating so it doesn't matter. Guess work - I don't have much trailer bearing expertise and can only go by what appears to be universal bearing makers instructions on lube and fill.

Overfilling will have an adverse effect, the magnitude of which I suppose can vary - probably depended on RPM more than anything. However much of what we do (precision machines tools) is fairly sensitive and often involves expensive bearings that we want to have perform and last. A lathe centre is essentially a spindle and many use really expensive bearings, e.g. P4's (why they are expensive). Maybe a rotating centre at low RPM's with higher tolerance bearings (less precise) wouldn't know much of a difference, but if the bearings makers are all saying 'this this the right way because....' that's the approach I've taken without really second guessing how much it matters in any given situation
 
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So onto live centre number two. This one also has poor feeling bearings but there is no obvious way it can be disassembled, I believe it was pushed together with no allowance of it ever coming apart. The tailstock end is solid.
Is there any chance that if I made a tight fitting collar/pipe to fit over the two straight diameters of the nose/point and used permanent loc-tite on them that would give enough holding power to pull the assembly out? I'm doubtful. Any other suggestions? Ya I know it's probably not worth it but good bearings are cheap and my time is even cheaper.
 

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So onto live centre number two. This one also has poor feeling bearings but there is no obvious way it can be disassembled, I believe it was pushed together with no allowance of it ever coming apart. The tailstock end is solid.
Is there any chance that if I made a tight fitting collar/pipe to fit over the two straight diameters of the nose/point and used permanent loc-tite on them that would give enough holding power to pull the assembly out? I'm doubtful. Any other suggestions? Ya I know it's probably not worth it but good bearings are cheap and my time is even cheaper.

Drill out the backside and press it apart?
 
SOP for me are new(er) low friction sealed bearings. What are you comparing is shielded vs sealed. It used to be a choice between shielded having lower friction and less than ideal sealing and sealed having a good seal but higher friction. The 2RSL ones (part of the part number) are the best of both worlds. For deep groove BB's, I wouldn't buy anything else.

Also note when packing a bearing (greasing), the bearing shouldn't be filled more than 1/3 with grease. pumping it full via a zerk will lead to problems - overheating. If the grease is gone/filthy probably time to replace the bearings anyway and with deep groove ball bearings, quality ones aren't that expensive.

On spindle bearings its even less the 1/3 - I have in seen many a bearings fail from OVER grease.
 
Possibly but it would be nearly three inches of drilling and I think the taper would be very hard material?

Drill a hole from the side, install a grease zirk, and try to push it out hydraulicly?

Grind or cut 2 or 3 lips behind the straight section and pull it out?

Fit it to a deadblow face and use inertia to pop it out?
 
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