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Jacobs Drill Chuck.
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
I went thru a couple of Asian keyless chucks. After about a year of use one over tightened and I ended up using a pipe wrench to remove the drill bit. Well that pretty well ruined it. So I tried an other Asian import and the same thing occurred. I decided to spend a lot more for a good chuck so I bought a Rohm about 3 times the price but well worth it. Haven't had any issues for a few years now. The moral of the story is when buying a keyless or keyed chuck spend the extra $. A chuck is something that is going to used a lot so don't cheap out. its like a milling vise, buy a quality product, its one of the most important components on a milling machine. and should last a life time of hobby use.
DPittman
Ultra Member
That's interesting and that makes sense. The first thing I do when chuck a drill is bottom it out to know I have it in far as it will go. I guess I might need to change my procedure.
@Tom O & @DPittman
This is new to me too. However, I never did bottom my bits. That often leaves me without enough drill bit showing. Imagine chucking a 1/16 drill to the bottom of the chuck! I have always more or less guessed at what a reasonable amount of the shank is that must be held and put that amount into the Jaws.
From now on, I'll add an additional step to make sure that what looks reasonable isn't so deep that it reaches the back of the chuck.
No matter how old we get there is always something more to learn!
Thank you!
historicalarms
Ultra Member
My only experience with keyless chucks is 3 or 4 Dewalt 1/2 drills. The plastic ones dont hold near as tight as the industrial quality steel chucks ...but both wont hold what my lathe& mill keyed chucks will hold. after years of use & abuse. both my keyed machine chucks are near the end of their life...the keys and gear head still have all their teeth but the holes have become oblong so very hard to get the key to grip the opposing teeth firmly.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
My first mentor in this area taught me to never bottom out a drill in a chuck. Never questioned it, I've avoided that since.
There is 'what works for me' and I respect that for everyone that uses another method. I had a Rohm years ago, but it went with some equipment. Nice chuck, but I still prefer my Jacobs keyed chucks...
Never could afford an Albrecht to try one.
There is 'what works for me' and I respect that for everyone that uses another method. I had a Rohm years ago, but it went with some equipment. Nice chuck, but I still prefer my Jacobs keyed chucks...
Never could afford an Albrecht to try one.
I have an import keyless Albrecht clone that came with my mill and I've never used it because a pipe wrench was used to loosen it at some point and the jaws are messed up now. Plus the thing is like 2" longer than my Jacobs MT3 mounted chuck.
Well, I am happy with all my chucks. I have a Gerardi 1/2" that came with my Hartford Mill (darn thing looks better and better ever day), a keyed 1/2" that came with my lathe, a Southbend 5/8 Keyless that I bought for my lathe 8 yrs ago or so, and a Jacobs 1/2" Keyed that has lived on my drill press since I got it 50+ years ago.
They all work just fine. No complaints.
The GS runout in the spindle is just under a thou which could be chuck, end mill I used as a gauge, or spindle. Who knows. Someday I'll find out what contributes what. In the meantime I'm not fussed about it.
They all work just fine. No complaints.
The GS runout in the spindle is just under a thou which could be chuck, end mill I used as a gauge, or spindle. Who knows. Someday I'll find out what contributes what. In the meantime I'm not fussed about it.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
Is it time to mention that I hoard chucks and have like well over 20? In last two weeks alone I got 3 more
However, I am yet to come across Albrecht.
That sucks - I guess a lot of people miss the little holes the keyless chucks have for opening them up when they go too tight.
Just use a spanner wrench.
Usually what happens to chucks with lots of use is that the chuck jaws no longer hold drill bit with any reasonable accuracy. Thus indeed a new Chinese chuck can be briefly better then old original jacobs that was used for 20+ years. This is also why Jacobs rebuild kits online are NOT cheap at all - they frequently sell for more then used chucks.
Runout on new Chinese chuck can indeed be very low - I was impressed by a $12 chuck I got off Amazon that had runout of just 1 thou. I am unsure how long it would hold such great performance but still for price paid it was a bit shocking to see - this was WAY better then a used Jacobs next to it which clocked at over 2x that.
However, I am yet to come across Albrecht.
That sucks - I guess a lot of people miss the little holes the keyless chucks have for opening them up when they go too tight.
Just use a spanner wrench.
Usually what happens to chucks with lots of use is that the chuck jaws no longer hold drill bit with any reasonable accuracy. Thus indeed a new Chinese chuck can be briefly better then old original jacobs that was used for 20+ years. This is also why Jacobs rebuild kits online are NOT cheap at all - they frequently sell for more then used chucks.
Runout on new Chinese chuck can indeed be very low - I was impressed by a $12 chuck I got off Amazon that had runout of just 1 thou. I am unsure how long it would hold such great performance but still for price paid it was a bit shocking to see - this was WAY better then a used Jacobs next to it which clocked at over 2x that.
Holy Moses! I thought I was bad hoarding tool holders......
Hmmmm. Now I find myself wondering what is reasonable run-out for a good chuck.....
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
I am shocked. Albrecht chucks are spendy, but not expensive (well, sort of). the 1/8" -5/8 self tightening chuck is under 500$ us at mcmaster carr... Not shocking for a long term investment. A little too spend for me, but one day maybe I'll splurge.
Albrecht guarantees their chucks to have less than 1.5 thou runout when purchased.
The equivalent chuck from jacobs is similar, at 1.6 thou runout,
Albrecht guarantees their chucks to have less than 1.5 thou runout when purchased.
The equivalent chuck from jacobs is similar, at 1.6 thou runout,
My GS is just under a thou using the shaft of a 3/8 endmill that I got from some mysterious place far far away..... (Insert big grin here).
Foolishly, I expected better but the more I think about it, I really should celebrate. Especially since that's total runout including the spindle, the R8 Taper, the chuck, and the endmill. It's also just one reading on one diameter part which might even have runout that might offset other runout elsewhere.
Anyway, thanks for the numbers which give me reason for pause.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
Maybe they are simply not very popular in Canada / north America in General?
Just a quick related question, do Rohm keyed chucks disassemble the same as Jacobs? I've pressed apart a couple of Jacobs but I have a Rohm that I want to open up and investigate why it's TIR is so far off. My web search hasn't turned up any Rohm service data and asking is better than breaking it because I don't know what I don't know......
Thanks,
D
Thanks,
D
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
Just a quick related question, do Rohm keyed chucks disassemble the same as Jacobs? I've pressed apart a couple of Jacobs but I have a Rohm that I want to open up and investigate why it's TIR is so far off. My web search hasn't turned up any Rohm service data and asking is better than breaking it because I don't know what I don't know......
Thanks,
D
I would think so - its Jacobs type, correct or is it Albrecht type? (i.e. does it use key or not).