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I just scored a bridgeport head, and right angle attachment accessories

well it is nice to dream but I think there is insufficient head height

But I'll start looking for models that will work.

Sheldon Horizontal Mill is one, there are a few Burke Cincinnati models, atlas horizontal may have the height
 
All new territory for me. Don't think I'd want a mill with no quill.... The thought of cranking that knee up and down all day every day makes me dizzy.
You want two things, a DRO on all three axiis, and a decent power feed on at least the X and Z axiis, and yer golden. Power feeds on all three axiis, is just gravy! :)

Ran a Varnamo UM-3 size mill for some years, and unless we were doing some drilling manually, the quill stayed locked out of the loop. Pretty easy to shave half the thickness of a Sharpie marker stripe, off the top of the work, while coming in to pick up the upper surface of it.
 
Drill = zero workout
Funny you mention the drill...I came across a 3D print file for the Induma's knee crank coupler.
BP owners have a 6 lug adapter to the crank.
Induma...in their infinite pasta-eatin-wisdom....went with a 5 lug.
The 3D printed part is meant to be driven, with a drill presumably.
My friend with a printer is going to take a stab at it for me.
I told him to make it as a solid as possible...
 
well it is nice to dream but I think there is insufficient head height

But I'll start looking for models that will work.

Sheldon Horizontal Mill is one, there are a few Burke Cincinnati models, atlas horizontal may have the height
there was a horizontal machine in Ab for sale for the last couple weeks on MP...of course...now I go to get the link n I can't find the damn thing :rolleyes:
 
Funny you mention the drill...I came across a 3D print file for the Induma's knee crank coupler.
BP owners have a 6 lug adapter to the crank.
Induma...in their infinite pasta-eatin-wisdom....went with a 5 lug.
The 3D printed part is meant to be driven, with a drill presumably.
My friend with a printer is going to take a stab at it for me.
I told him to make it as a solid as possible...

Tell him to print with supports, and the part on a 45 degree angle and no infill, so the part is less likely to shear off the lugs.

Then tell him to make a weak azz thin walled one to use in lost pla casting
 
well it is nice to dream but I think there is insufficient head height

But I'll start looking for models that will work.

Sheldon Horizontal Mill is one, there are a few Burke Cincinnati models, atlas horizontal may have the height

20241115_171326.jpg

It's not for sale, but my little Kearney Trecker 1a would make a great conversion project.....
 
Best as I can tell it is 1913, I think that it came with a Jarno taper, but has been reworked to a nmtb40 taper. Table is 9 1/2" x 38". I have a Van Norman high speed vertical head that needs to be adapted to fit. I think I have a plan for that that won't change the originality of either piece.
I swear , I am going to get it going this winter........or one of the following ones. :rolleyes:
 
Ya, that's the rub for sure. No power on any axis for me yet. Some day.......hopefully before I die.......
Treat yourself to one for the X axis, for a Christmas present!

Pretty sure I have a complete Align feed unit here with a stripped gear. Somewhere in my sh...., stuff!
If I run across it, I'll let you know and you can have it.

Vevor looks to be about $200, or a little less, for a cheap import...
 
Treat yourself to one for the X axis, for a Christmas present!

To be honest, I think I'd rather have my first one be for the knee. I don't really mind cranking x & y. But that knee is a pain. I sometimes use a castle adapter with a drill but that's too inconvenient for small changes. Of course, they are also more money - ain't that always the case.....
 
To be honest, I think I'd rather have my first one be for the knee. I don't really mind cranking x & y. But that knee is a pain. I sometimes use a castle adapter with a drill but that's too inconvenient for small changes. Of course, they are also more money - ain't that always the case.....
I found that getting a power feed on X made a HUGE difference, in the quality of my output, taking out the inconsistencies of hand cranking the feeds. YMMV... Nice to be able to set a slow, very fine feed, and not have to spend the next however long, carefully trying to maintain 'that' speed! :P

Pretty sure the rig I have inna box is the one off the knee of our Milltronics Partner 4 CNC mill. Quite heavier duty than the 150 size feeds. Will take a look and see if I can find it. Pretty sure I'll never use it, and pretty sure its all there except 'maybe' the gear. Gears can be got!

For really fine adjustments on the Z axis, I always tried to get the crank so I was leaning down on it, as the table raised, with the crank set as close to horizontal as I could get it. I found that gave me the best control.
 
For really fine adjustments on the Z axis, I always tried to get the crank so I was leaning down on it, as the table raised, with the crank set as close to horizontal as I could get it. I found that gave me the best control.

I've never done any Z machining other than using the quill. The idea of lifting or dropping the knee during a machining operation seems too difficult to manage. I do have a power quill though.

So for me, the need is really cracking the knee up or down to accommodate whatever milling operation on whatever part is required. Subsequent machining is all done on x, y, and quill.

If your power feed was for the knee of a bigger machine I'm sure it would do the job on mine too. It would be a lot easier than using a drill or my hands.

For an old guy with one eye and shaky hands, I even surprise myself at how easily I can turn the X & Y handles at a very steady rate. The same goes for my lathe. I think it's a knack I have
 
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