That is a good suggestion and that gave me an idea. I have some 3" PVC pipe left over and if I put a cap on it, that should work. Thanks
Hey Hacker, whatever works for you! Always a good reason why we don't turf out unused stuff. LOL
That is a good suggestion and that gave me an idea. I have some 3" PVC pipe left over and if I put a cap on it, that should work. Thanks
That is a good suggestion and that gave me an idea. I have some 3" PVC pipe left over and if I put a cap on it, that should work. Thanks
Isn't that the same process as building a canoe?When we were building the Vickers Vedette flying boat at our Western Development Museum we used eaves trough to soak the different lengths of birch strips in hot water to aid bending said birch for wing ribs. Once the strips became pliable they were then fastened to a peg board like jigs largely dependent on required bend. A time consuming, tedious process but it worked well.
Isn't that the same process as building a canoe?
Cookie sheet?Looks good! The Evapo-Rust is great stuff. I just picked of three Starrett beveled straight edges and they have some surface rust and need a soaking. The problem I have is the one is 36" and I haven't come up with a way of soaking it with out using a large amount of the stuff.
Cookie sheet?
That looks like it I’ll have to flip it over and check the other side to confirm.That center support "looks" like it could be off a Standard Modern Utilathe
View attachment 15037
Very similar
That center support "looks" like it could be off a Standard Modern Utilathe Very similar
I haven't built one either but have several friends that have built cedar ones and have always been amazed at how far you can bend the wood without breaking it and still maintain strength.Very similar although I've never built a canoe. Used one many times hunting moose in my younger days and no not made of birch bark!
I’ve also used quick and dirty trays or troughs scabbed together from fence boards or whatever wood you have around. Line it with a garbage bag or similar plastic and you’re good to go. No need to get fancy with seams or anything, it only needs to contain the liquid for a day or two, and you can fit the tray to the artifact so as to economize on the solution.
Jars filled with water, rocks, marbles etc can also be placed in the tank to bulk up the volume so you don’t need as much actual chemical to cover the piece.
Well I suppose you could do that. What one wants to watch though is that you minimize surface contact between the part and anything else in the solution, including the walls of the container, lest one gets “shadows” from fluid starvation. In worst case scenarios, nasty tide marks can develop at the interface between air and solution if there is anything exposed (or an air pocket). Several attempts have been made using saturated paper towels to cover the part but those (at least all the ones I’ve seen) have not gone as planned and the result is akin to the part being branded with a Bounty-brand waffle maker.
My experience with heavy items in liquid-filled plastic bags usually doesn’t end well, and I like to have good control and see what’s going on inside the vessel to make sure the parts are separated. But there’s only one way to find out — you could start an evaporust farm like they do for forensic analysis on corpses…