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First "lunchbox size" plasma cutter experience

Don't hate me: sounds like you could use a router and a two flute spiral bit to do what you are aiming to do. Cheaper and likely cleaner than the plasma. Even if you take a couple of passes to do it, you might like the results better and easier cleanup. IMHO.

BTW, do you mind saying what you paid for the plasma cutter?
<slow clap!>

Ayup! Had a job come in to one of our shops. Needed to make 48 essentially matching panels, of 1/8 aluminum, to fit the back cockpit walls of Bell 412 helicopters.
Talked the boss into authorizing the purchase of a new Dewalt Router and some pilot bearing bits. We banged out a plywood template while they were out getting the tools and tooling

Took us one day to make 48 panels, that had came in with an 8 man-hours per piece time estimate.

Back of the shop looked like a silver snowstorm but the work was done and cleaned, way faster than anyone expected.
 
Jim, if you try the router, I can say from experience, a decent set of proper safety glasses, with closed in sides, AND a decent pull-down, full face cover safety shield, are a great idea.
And ear plugs! :)

Router cutting freehand can be done with some care. It's much easier and less like to blow a cutter, if you use a template though!
 
No one uses argon for cutting, it is to expensive
I think I agree. But there may be specific cutting situations where, for example, a very thick cut, where the air CFM needed is higher than the available compressor can provide for. The Argon cylinder then be a substitute air source. Or, maybe work being done in a place, or a time, when the noise of a compressor is unacceptable.

JIm G
 
Jim, if you try the router, I can say from experience, a decent set of proper safety glasses, with closed in sides, AND a decent pull-down, full face cover safety shield, are a great idea.
And ear plugs! :)

Router cutting freehand can be done with some care. It's much easier and less like to blow a cutter, if you use a template though!

David_R8 also said: I would not want to free hand rout aluminum. Template only and never climb cut.


Yeah, I'm not attracted to the idea of using a router for cutting patterns in either aluminum or stainless steel. Call me a wimp if you like! :)

Jim G
 
I would not want to free hand rout aluminum. Template only and never climb cut.
I have done. Sketchy as heck, do not recommend. But it got us out of the jam we were in.

White knuckle grip! About all that scares me more, is using one of those chainsaw chain equipped disks on an angle grinder, for carving! THAT is a tool that requires both you UNDIVIDED attention, AND that yo be fully on your 'game'!
 
David_R8 also said: I would not want to free hand rout aluminum. Template only and never climb cut.


Yeah, I'm not attracted to the idea of using a router for cutting patterns in either aluminum or stainless steel. Call me a wimp if you like! :)

Jim G
Stainless would be something I'd let someone else do, with their tools, when I wasn't around...


Much like cutting aluminum with various saws, a router does a surprisingly nice job of it, and is just another tool in the 'kit'!

Now, just as one example, your weld cupons. Do you need to bevel them? If so, the router is a pat hand at it, using a piloted angle bevel bit, either using the stock itself as a template, or the edge of the bench.

Just saying. These are things that mean you spend time welding rather than filing bevels, say.
 
I have done. Sketchy as heck, do not recommend. But it got us out of the jam we were in.

White knuckle grip! About all that scares me more, is using one of those chainsaw chain equipped disks on an angle grinder, for carving! THAT is a tool that requires both you UNDIVIDED attention, AND that yo be fully on your 'game'!

Oh gosh! THAT sounds even scarier to me. I had a friend who tried to impress his girlfriend by using a chainsaw to prune a branch off a tree in her backyard, and ended up with a huge and ugly scar on his face after a very stressful trip to the ER. He was lucky it did not kill him. That pretty much made me forget any idea of ever using a chainsaw as an untrained amateur.

Jim G
 
Oh gosh! THAT sounds even scarier to me. I had a friend who tried to impress his girlfriend by using a chainsaw to prune a branch off a tree in her backyard, and ended up with a huge and ugly scar on his face after a very stressful trip to the ER. He was lucky it did not kill him. That pretty much made me forget any idea of ever using a chainsaw as an untrained amateur.

Jim G
Like any tool, if used poorly, it can bite you.

FWIW the disk I mentioned was or is sold by an outfit called King Arthur's Tools, and can be seen here. https://katools.com/knights-choice-all-blade-set/
 
Stainless would be something I'd let someone else do, with their tools, when I wasn't around...


Much like cutting aluminum with various saws, a router does a surprisingly nice job of it, and is just another tool in the 'kit'!

Now, just as one example, your weld cupons. Do you need to bevel them? If so, the router is a pat hand at it, using a piloted angle bevel bit, either using the stock itself as a template, or the edge of the bench.

Just saying. These are things that mean you spend time welding rather than filing bevels, say.
Yes, I can see safely bevelling the LONG 6" side of the coupon on my router table IF I can push it through along the fence using my high tech yellow push block with friction bottom surface AND rear anti-kickback paddles, but never by hand only. And, I would NOT try the short 3 inch side.

Jim G
 
Like any tool, if used poorly, it can bite you.

FWIW the disk I mentioned was or is sold by an outfit called King Arthur's Tools, and can be seen here. https://katools.com/knights-choice-all-blade-set/
I get scared just LOOKING at the photo of that tool!

I'm probably prejudiced after having a plant worker many years ago insert his hand into a rubber calendaring machine and squashing and then amputating his hand and forearm as a result. I had to pick up his wife and drive her to the hospital emergency room. Very unpleasant memory.

Jim G
 
Here is a good article regarding shielding gas selection


Im not sure how using a bottle (nitrogen or agon mix) over a compressor would benefit in the noise category, plasma cutting and the related activities are loud as hell to begin with, not really saving and DB by ditching the compressor....and don't forget the straight argon you use for your general tig welding wont work, it needs to be a mix
 
Yes, I can see safely bevelling the LONG 6" side of the coupon on my router table IF I can push it through along the fence using my high tech yellow push block with friction bottom surface AND rear anti-kickback paddles, but never by hand only. And, I would NOT try the short 3 inch side.

Jim G
They make beveling tools that operate on the exact same principles, that can do steel pipe for pipeline use. As well as bench top units for taking the sharp edges off sheet parts.

Personally, I would likely look at making a sled of sorts that contains the cupon and blocks the chips from coming out the top, if I were considering using a router table. Another handy use for woodworking, making things so you can work metal! Who knew? :)

But before doing that, I would most like do the entire long edge of the bar, before I bucked it into cupons, by clamping it on the edge of a bench, and using the material itself, or the edge of the bench, as the template for the bearing to run against.
 
IME, a jigsaw is a lot less noisy, easier to control and much cleaner (in terms of chips everywhere) than a router. The cut does needs a bit more cleaning up vs a router, but for cutting inside curves in 3/16 plate, I'd be reach for a jigsaw long before a router. Or you could rough it out with a jigsaw and clean the last 1mm with a router on a template.
 
IME, a jigsaw is a lot less noisy, easier to control and much cleaner (in terms of chips everywhere) than a router. The cut does needs a bit more cleaning up vs a router, but for cutting inside curves in 3/16 plate, I'd be reach for a jigsaw long before a router. Or you could rough it out with a jigsaw and clean the last 1mm with a router on a template.
That would work!

Jim g
 
Worth a try!

When we were producing the panels we brought the router in for, it was a solution to a specific problem, which worked far and away better than we imagined it would.

It is not the solution to every problem, by any means though.
 
Wow, this thread went off topic quickly.

Regarding chinese lunchbox plasma cutters:

I bought a $200CA "S7 50Amp Non-Touch Pilot Air Plasma Cutter 110V / 220V Dual Voltage Inverter DC Digital Display IGBT Portable Cutting Machine"

Worked ok on 240v, until it let out the magic smoke after what i suspect was caused by a bad ground connection that spiked the IGBTs. Dead short tripped the main breaker. All 4 IGBT chips and the gate diodes were smoked after autopsy. The seller (3rd party amazon) didn't honour the "2 year warranty" after numerous back and forth amazon messages and detailed photos. (roughly a year after purchase).

The 50A models seem to use 4 chips (2x2) whereas the 65a other models I've seen photos of have 6 chips (3x2) for longer duty cycle use.

Each IGBT in mine was spec'd at 50A and 600V max. X 4.

Also the water separator mounted on the back with the drain directly in front of the INTAKE fan, not a great design. In a moment of stupidity I decided to purge the water and it was promptly ingested into the machine. It didn't do any damage due to the laquer coating on the circuit board.
 
I just received and tried out one of the inexpensive "50-amp" lunchbox sized plasma cutters, and I have to say I am somehwat impressed, even though my initial "technique" is inexperienced and undeducated.

The unit i have is the BestArc Pilot Arc BTC500DP 50Amps Dual Voltage 110/220V unit. This is NOT one of the very cheapest units available on places like Amazon. It's a small step above those in terms of price, but what it offers in return for the extra $100 or so, if bought new off Amazon.ca, is a very favourable bump in both features and build quality.

After finding some ads on Facebook, I had previously done a fair bit of research on plasma cutters. I realize that for professional use, the name brand, well designed and well built "lunchbox sized" 120 / 240 volt units are in the $2500 & up range here in Canada. But most DIY guys like me can't afford to spend that much, especially for the limited number times we would use one, and the modest thicknesses most of us would cut compared to commercial businesses. So, yes, there IS a need for low priced plasma cutters, provided that they have REASONABLY decent feature sets and are sensibly reliable. You probably shouldn't expect the same robust reliability you get from a unit that has a 4-digit price, but then the cheap units at Amazon and other online places have prices that are literally 1/10th the cost of the pro units.

Having said that, I watched an impressive YouTube review of the BestArc Pilot Arc BTC500DP that was done at least a year ago (maybe longer -I could not find the original date) by Mike Festiva, who does a lot of very practical metal fab reviews targeting DIY guys and gals. He really liked its features and performance, AND by the time I saw the review, he had already added comments below it noting that he had had NO reliability issues in all the time he has owned it. That's a pretty good endorsement for a product that is only about $100 CDN above the cheapest units online!

Here are a couple of photos of the unit and its trappings: (NOTE! The grounding clamp shown is NOT the one that came with it. It came with a more typical sheet metal clamp. I replaced the grounding clamp with a high quality one at the same time as I replaced the clamp on my TIG welder)

View attachment 30332

View attachment 30333

Notice the generally high quality of fit and finish and features:

- A REAL 240 volt power cable and 50 amp plug, plus a 240 to 120 plug converter (versus the inferior 120V cable and plug with 240 V adaptor that the cheapest unit come with)

- Automatically recognizes whether 120V or 240V, and self-adjusts to it

- Standard male 1/4" quick disconnect supply air fitting (versus a clamp-on setup that always leaks and is a pain to connect each time)

- NO air leakage (exterior and interior), which is a relief after reading some of the horror stories on the cheapest online units

- A water trap with pushbutton drain built into the air system, easily visible but well integrated into the unit's rear (not hanging out waiting to be hit and damaged). This is a real plus as water in the air supply is really hard on both the plasma cutting torch components AND the resulting cut quality

- Pilot air system with built-in replaceable standoff (You can also buy a version that lacks the pilot air, but the saving is apparently only about $25). This makes usage and resulting performance both MUCH easier

- Adjustable air pressure knob with display gauge

- Adjustable amperage knob with digital display

- Adjustable post airflow knob with digital display

- BIG DEAL: Requires only an air supply capable of feeding 35 to 75 psi air at 1.5 to 5 CFM. From the included recommendations table, my intended usage should require only about 50 psi and maybe 2.5 CFM, which is less than my compressor can provide. Note that the user manual says to keep the psi set under 75 psi maximum - apparently anything higher is never needed given this unit's maximum cutting capabilities, and too much air pressure can hurt cut quality. This unit is therefor an appropriate "fit" for my needs and my compressor capabilities.

I connected it all up to do just a quick check to make sure it works, and works with my compressor and my 240V 50 amp oultet (same one I use for my TIG welder). I also made sure it can be cutting at 30 amps (my largest anticipated amperage) while my compressor is ALSO running, since my garage workshop is fed by a 50 amp subpanel, which has to simultaneously run the 240V plasma cutter, the 120V compressor, and the extensive 120V LED lighting (bright as a laboratory!). Everything worked fine. :)

My test cuts were in 3/16" 5000 series Aluminum coupons that I currently have in the shop. The thickest and worst to cut via plasma cutter material that I anticipate cutting in my shop will likely be 1/4" aluminum, so this was a reasonable way to test basic functionality of the unit, AND its being fed by my smallish "pancake" compressor (3.7 SCFM at 40 psi and 2.6 SCFM at 90 psi) which was designed to feed an air nailgun.

Note that I have zero plasma cutting experience and therefor have NO idea of what combination of air pressure and amperage is appropriate for 3/16" 5000 series aluminum. I just wanted to make sure the unit worked and that my compressor could feed it.

Results: The unit DID work, and did cut, and my compressor seemed to be adequate.

The cuts themselves were reasonably fast and easy, and had the apparently desirable slight "backward tilt" appearance. But, there was a LOT of ragged deposition on the lower (only) surface edges of the cuts (nothing on the top surfaces of the cuts). I am assuming this is because I had an inappropriate combination of amperage and psi. But I could be wrong - could this be a result of cutting aluminum? Or, did I just apply way too much or way too little of either psi or amps?? (LOTS to learn apparently)

View attachment 30337
In the photo above, the cut was made moving from right to left ( <--- ). Note the "rearward tilt" in the cut pattern. The dark spots are probably where I got the torch "skate" caught on surface imperfections in the coupon and lost the arc temporarily??


I was astonished at how CLEAN the actual process was in terms of smoke, sparks, and residual debris on the floor (I was cutting coupons clamped to a metal tabletop at about 30 inches above the floor). I saw no fireworks at all in my autotint welding helmet. After I took my helmet off, I found only clean aluminum fragments on the floor, and not that many. I had NOT cleaned the coupons in any way, but still found no ash or other evidence of impurities.

So, success so far in basic operation.

I obviously though need to learn a LOT about appropriate combinations of air psi and and amperage. Where do I look for that kind of specific information?

Jim G
I have this exact unit and have used it a lot. Just the other weekend actually. They have issues if you hit them with to much air pressure, can blow the fitting or something on the inside. When I first got mine it was maxed out on the regulator, which would have not been cool, so I turned it all the way down. One thing is to make sure and fire it up every so many months to keep the caps conditioned. Lots of times people leave em for awhile then turn em on and try to use em right away and pop. They are not the cheapest on line but they are still on the bottom of the scale.

I never used mine on aluminum. I used it to cut out the bottoms of all our cabinets before we sent them to site. Before the plasma it was hole saws and sawzalls and jig saws. I did more cutting in one afternoon with the plasma then the days before. It has worked great. Thickest I have cut was 1/4" angle. Most of the cutting was on 10gauge, even just burns right through the paint. For the aluminum, I have used either a router or a skill saw. Jigsaw for small stuff. Always wear good PPE.
 
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