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ER40 D1-4 Collet Chuck Question

I believe I have seen them in Princess Auto on the welding replacement isle to the left of welding tips along with handle material at the south store.
 
Darrin - thanks for the link. When I made my handwheels I was looking for a rivet drill but couldn't find one and I see these guys have them. I ended up just making a crude one but it works.
 
Darrin - thanks for the link. When I made my handwheels I was looking for a rivet drill but couldn't find one and I see these guys have them. I ended up just making a crude one but it works.

No problem Mike. They don't have a huge selection, just for the rivets they carry. They have superb customer service.
 
Well using a strap wrench to hold the chuck was a bust, literally! I tried the web belt strap I had but it just broke (old) and the rubber strap, that just stretched out so a new hook wrench it is.
The chuck wrench is a bigger version of the nut wrench and they're a matched set and @RobinHood - no new trees were harmed in the making of the handles lol. And as an extra my handle building skills are getting better.
 

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I got around to mounting and adjusting my ER40 chuck on my lathe today. After dialing it in with the set-true adjusters I was able to get repeatable run out of .00001"in the collet taper. I'm pretty impressed for the money. The OD of the chuck back plate was left unfinished and had .009" runout so I turned it true. What ever the material is it's very hard. The wrench it came with is the same as Mike's but I had already bought a 4 lug wrench on Amazon. The ER40 nut is supposed to be torqued to around 140 LB/ft and I'd never be able to get anywhere near that with the short wrench it comes with. Strangely the R8/ER40 chuck I bought from PM for my mill has the right size wrench but it's still too short. I got a set of collets from PM to go with the chuck. They range from 1 to 26 mm in 1 mm increments so they should be able to fit any material between .020" and 1". They look like good quality but time will tell.









 
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That is an awesome result to get that kind of runout, I've been wanting to have an ER40 collet chuck for the lathe for a while. Been tempted to make one but if the PM units are that good it might be more worth it to save the fun budget shekels and get one of those instead. I burnt up the last bit buying a riser block, lol . . .
 
That is an awesome result to get that kind of runout, I've been wanting to have an ER40 collet chuck for the lathe for a while. Been tempted to make one but if the PM units are that good it might be more worth it to save the fun budget shekels and get one of those instead. I burnt up the last bit buying a riser block, lol . . .

Ah Ha.... so that's where the riser went.
 
John - does your lathe have a spindle lock for when you are tightening the clamping nut? There is no lock on my lathe and low gear won't hold enough to tighten the clamp, that's why I made the second wrench.
Buy it now before he raises the prices
Mine came to $370us to my door with the chuck and the 15 piece collet set.
 
I finally got the wrench done. I used some 3/16 fb that was kicking around, rough shaped with a cut off wheel on the little grinder and then to the bench grinder for a bit more fine tuning. Used the belt sander for some close enough until the handles are on shaping. The inside arc was done on the milling machine with the rotary table and filed the tooth to shape. Then it was on to the handles, a bit of left over cherry from another project, some epoxy and rivets to secure them to the wrench. Back to the belt sander to bring the wood to the same shape as the steel, router over the edges (of the wood), sand smooth and add four coats of teak oil. Done! Much nicer fit than the wrench that came with the chuck.
I'll try tightening with a strap wrench on the chuck and see if it comes tight enough, if not I'll make the same style wrench for the chuck.
Beautiful wrench! The wrench that came with my collet has the same issue. You've inspired me to go the same route.
 
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