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Supplies Dykem blue

Supplies
Mine is actually branded. "Dykem".

Much as it pains me, I confess I lied. Apparently it isn't branded Dykem after all....... My memory just sucks. Sorry about that.

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I like it more than layout
I suspect that years of making model airplanes in a shed with no windows has altered my perception of what constitutes a good smell. I really like the smell of Dykem (but I’m not going to artificially apply it, it has to be Dykem used “in the wild).

Of course I like eating Vegemite too, so the bar is set pretty low.
 
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I found out that the Automotive Refinishing shops that we supply use these for touch-ups.
The guys I work with made me ‘one’ for layouts.
They filled it with ‘PPG’ ALK-200 - blue paint.
 

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Can someone help me to learn how exactly this compound is supposed to be used? Maybe an article or youtube link if its to long of an explanation?
 
Can someone help me to learn how exactly this compound is supposed to be used? Maybe an article or youtube link if its to long of an explanation?

The simple version is that it's applied to a surface and dried. Then a sharp marker can scratch it to show very clearly where to cut or machine.

There is also a prussian blue paint that is applied and used to check for good fits such as tapers. Dykem is too thick to use for checking fits. Prussian blue smears to much to take a good mark.

Guessing you don't need pictures or YouTube now.
 
Can someone help me to learn how exactly this compound is supposed to be used? Maybe an article or youtube link if its to long of an explanation?

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This is a DRO scale mounting bracket I made for my mill. It's made of 1/4" aluminum plate. I laid out the required shape using layout fluid and a scribe (pointy instrument). The layout fluid makes the scribe marks highly visible. I then cut the bracket out by following the scribe lines.

Does that make sense?
 
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So two different functions?

A layout function where you 'paint' the surface and then scribe away that paint on the lines that you want to cut etc. Presumably it is easier to make these scribe marks in the 'paint' than in the metal itself. And the colour makes the lines easier to see than just scratches?

And a fit function where you use the fluid to show the groves / lands (high and low places) in a fitting that should be flush all over? Again, the colour making everything easier to see?
 
So two different functions?

A layout function where you 'paint' the surface and then scribe away that paint on the lines that you want to cut etc. Presumably it is easier to make these scribe marks in the 'paint' than in the metal itself. And the colour makes the lines easier to see than just scratches?

And a fit function where you use the fluid to show the groves / lands (high and low places) in a fitting that should be flush all over? Again, the colour making everything easier to see?

No. Layout fluid is not used to check fitment. Prussic blue and others are for checking fitment. It's more of a paste than a liquid.
 
Thanks - as I was reading this I assumed that they were two different brands of the same thing. Now it makes a lot more sense!
 
Thanks - as I was reading this I assumed that they were two different brands of the same thing. Now it makes a lot more sense!

And just to add to the confusion, a lot of folks find a felt marker or sharpie a good substitute for layout fluid.
 
I was also trying to work out how a sharpie could help find land / grove (high / low) fit mismatches. At best it can smudge the high spots I think. But to provide or highlight layout marks, that would be a very good tool i think. Scribe it in the metal and then highlight it with a marker
 
What makes it confusing is Prussian blue is basically a color. Its like saying crimson or purple. The use of the minerals in pigments & inks go back a long, long time. You'll see it named in any artist paints color set. Apparently the name Prussian blue originated in the 18th century, when the compound was used to dye the uniform coats for the Prussian army. Over the years, the pigment acquired several other “blue” names, including Berlin, Parisian, and Turnbull's blue.


Maybe a better way to classify is 'layout' or 'transfer'. Layout means an opaque, quick dry coating on the metal to allow you to scribe very thin but distinguishable lines via the shiny contrasting metal color. The typical stuff is alcohol based, so dries relatively quick & (mostly) withstands cutting oils. Comes off readily with methanol. You can also get in aerosol for larger areas. You can also get red or a few other colors Sharpies serve the same purpose, handier & faster drying for smaller areas.

Transfer is also known as 'high-spot'. Typically its a greasy oil based cream viscosity, but now there are water based & other formulations. I don't think it really dries, or if it does, over a very long time. Its used in scraping where you roll it on a surface, for example the granite surface plate, rub a part on it. What transfers off to the part are the highs or hilltops to be scraped. Or similarly any 2 surfaces where one is considered a master, say a bearing & shaft assemblies. Sharpies also work here, but generally smaller parts. But you don't use transfer medium as a layout medium or vise-versa.

 
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All my life people have accused me of writing a book about how time works when asked a simple question like what time it is. So I try to say more with less words now - rarely very successfully.

@PeterT's answer makes me jealous. It is really rather excellent.
 
I was also trying to work out how a sharpie could help find land / grove (high / low) fit mismatches.
Magic marker can be used to test the fit of sliding surfaces... you paint a surface and drag it over another surface for fit. The MM rubs off easily because it is dry and fragile. This is a coarse, quick test to see how stuff fits, but it isn't the kosher approach.

The doesn't replace Prussian Blue "high spot blue", which is a non-drying film that you 'transfer ' the colour from one surface to another where it touches. spotting blue can detect high spots as tiny as 1/10000 of an inch, if applied as a very thin film.

I don't apply MM over the entire surface, but just at the places I want to highlight. I scribe into these small places, such as the corners of a dovetail, etc. To cover a large plate, such as YYC shows I use spray layout fluid.
 
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