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Dumb question probably

PeterT said:
Even though it's only a 4" vise I loose valuable y axis travel toward column if I push it in anymore. I won't likely be running flood coolant anyhow.

I was just making a haha. I think everyone optimizes the jaws to the spindle. It almost looks like you have a similar channel on the front side of the lug? Can you see your table between the jaws or is it covered by the base casting?
No I can't see the table between jaws it is covered by the base solid.
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Here we go Don coolant overflow.
 

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The counter bore in @DPittman 's second pic looks to be one of those aircraft counter bore tools - should have a center alignment either reamer or drill. The side says .314 or something like that so it is probably sized for some specific rivet head etc. I have a drawer of the aircraft ones - no real use to me and a bunch of center reamers that are all very high tolerance. Got them in a tool box from an airspace machinist.
 
Janger said:
...It's an analog rpm meter. You put the end against the spindle or whatever is turning and it counts how many revolutions. Combined with a stop watch or just a watch second hand you can then work out the RPM.
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MrPete222 did a Youtube video (actually several) on such:


Craig
 
I think @Brent H is spot on with his call on an aircraft counterbore. The cutter has the name "Craig" on it and sure enough they seem to be a company that makes aircraft cutters. Although I didn't find the exact same counterbore as mine on their website I found very similar ones but they were mostly reverse cutting. My cutter is indeed a 90 degreed cutter and cuts the conventional clockwise way. The pilot hole in the middle appears to measure .300" and on the cutter is stamped .3- .314. I imagine that is the range of the size of stud it can fit over.

Here is my only Starrett tool.....to bad it wasn't still useful today.
20200822_200341.jpg
 
Janger said:
Since this has turned into the weird tool thread - I've got one for you all. I inherited this odd thing from a friends machinist father after he passed. Dabbler explained it to me (or maybe John Nielsen can't recall). It's an analog rpm meter. You put the end against the spindle or whatever is turning and it counts how many revolutions. Combined with a stop watch or just a watch second hand you can then work out the RPM. I have no idea how old this is. Pretty neat.
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quite common on farms since rotating thrashers became a "thing", used to check/set shaft speeds on turning farm equipment where not feasible or worthwhile to mount a permanent tach to the shaft. Pretty much became obsolete in recent times with the advent of "sensors" attached to shafts that are just wired to a common digital tack gauge with numerous "channels" at the operators station.
 
Janger said:
Since this has turned into the weird tool thread - I've got one for you all. I inherited this odd thing from a friends machinist father after he passed. Dabbler explained it to me (or maybe John Nielsen can't recall). It's an analog rpm meter. You put the end against the spindle or whatever is turning and it counts how many revolutions. Combined with a stop watch or just a watch second hand you can then work out the RPM. I have no idea how old this is. Pretty neat.
Click to expand...

The one I have is a newer model I think it has a odometer style counter with a clock face timer that is idle till pressed on the shaft to count rotations and engage the timer zeroing the readout rewinds the clock mechanis.
 
Tom O said:
The one I have is a newer model I think it has a odometer style counter with a clock face timer that is idle till pressed on the shaft to count rotations and engage the timer zeroing the readout rewinds the clock mechanis.
Click to expand...

Pictures Tom ?
 
Here are the two I have The top one has to be pressed on the shaft to start the clock the end knurled part is to reset and wind the timer anyone know where to get the rubber tips?The lower one has a disc that travels in the tube showing revs.

4408DB8F-4804-408D-8A92-5E585C2D77DC.jpeg
 
Here are the “stop watch” types I have:

3952615A-ADCA-4D1B-B2AF-1C805EDDEE3B.jpeg


They both work.

The top one is Swiss Made by N. Zivy & Cie. SA and the instructions are dated July, 1963.

The bottom one is Made in Japan by the Teclock Corporation in October 1944.

Both were part of a tool buy. Do I need them - not really. Are they super cool - absolutely.
 
RobinHood said:
Here are the “stop watch” types I have:

View attachment 10792

They both work.

The top one is Swiss Made by N. Zivy & Cie. SA and the instructions are dated July, 1963.

The bottom one is Made in Japan by the Teclock Corporation in October 1944.

Both were part of a tool buy. Do I need them - not really. Are they super cool - absolutely.
Click to expand...
Oh man they just get cooler by the minute! Those are beauties.
 
I thought so too when I got them...

No instructions for the Japanese one.

The Swiss one is good for 10000 RPM with a 100% overspeed allowance! The only thing the instructions ask you to do is wait 4 - 5 seconds between measurements (to let things cool down?).

Both operate in either CW or CCW spindle rotation; the indicator hands always move clockwise.
 
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