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DRO Shaking

Is you reader head correctly positioned relative to the scale? they usually come with an orange plastic shim. also you can try limiting the resolution in the DRO to tenths. This is important if you have 5-10 micron scales but have the DRO set to 1 micron.
Mine came with no shims. I saw a picture online with the shim in place and tried to approximate the distance. Seems to measure correctly based on the marks on the crank.
 
@Tomc938 - the flat bar that the sensor is mounted to looks thin, could it be vibrating and affecting the readings? I think something thicker and stronger (angle or rectangular tube) would be more rigid.
I was thinking along those lines. Still might. But it went together so well, I hate to mess with success. I'll see how things are going forward.
 
Thanks to everyone for the assistance! Feel so much better now that I don't think I flushed money down the drain.

And if there are ongoing issues, I can work on the gibs again.

BTW: I was thinking about throwing a couple of sandbags into the base to help reduce vibration. Anyone have experience with that? Would also help quell the harmonics.
 
BTW: I was thinking about throwing a couple of sandbags into the base to help reduce vibration. Anyone have experience with that? Would also help quell the harmonics.

Wouldn't hurt but shouldn't be necessary. How bad is the vibration and where is it coming from?
 
Thanks to everyone for the assistance! Feel so much better now that I don't think I flushed money down the drain.

And if there are ongoing issues, I can work on the gibs again.

BTW: I was thinking about throwing a couple of sandbags into the base to help reduce vibration. Anyone have experience with that? Would also help quell the harmonics.
Did you bought the base from King Canada?
 
Thanks to everyone for the assistance! Feel so much better now that I don't think I flushed money down the drain.

And if there are ongoing issues, I can work on the gibs again.

BTW: I was thinking about throwing a couple of sandbags into the base to help reduce vibration. Anyone have experience with that? Would also help quell the harmonics.

That's great news. As I made suggestions and asked questions I managed to depress myself thinking ahead to problems I might anticipate having along the same lines.

I even redesigned the x axis bracket I was planning to use to make it much more solid. I'll prolly still go with the stronger bracket but it's good to know that something as simple as tightening the Gibbs got rid of the digit dance.
 
That's great news. As I made suggestions and asked questions I managed to depress myself thinking ahead to problems I might anticipate having along the same lines.

I even redesigned the x axis bracket I was planning to use to make it much more solid. I'll prolly still go with the stronger bracket but it's good to know that something as simple as tightening the Gibbs got rid of the digit dance.
Thats what i'm thinking about too..
When i'ii install mine, i will use a 1/4 in steel bracket.
 
WOW! You shouldn't be seeing that on a lathe. How bad does it vibrate?
Mine flickers from .0002 to .0004 in some situations, depending on where the head is ( rpm ) and what Fq the lathe is wiggling at. I am speaking of the Z axis here.
 
Mine flickers from .0002 to .0004 in some situations, depending on where the head is ( rpm ) and what Fq the lathe is wiggling at. I am speaking of the Z axis here.

What's the Z axis on a lathe? I'll get 0.000X blips on my mill just by locking the table and/or running a dull endmill. If your DRO supports display filtering (shake) you can filter those out.
 
I'm waiting to receive mine...
About the ground connection, if i remember, there is no ground pin on the plug ?? si, no need to the ground wire from the dro to the head...
What do you guys think about that?
My mistake...
I'm waiting to receive mine...
About the ground connection, if i remember, there is no ground pin on the plug ?? si, no need to the ground wire from the dro to the head...
What do you guys think about that?
 

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I am adding a note on this thread because I just found another reason for flickering of the digits. Anyone reading this thread and looking for a solution to a similar problem might appreciate this additional info.

Apparently aligning the bar code on the scale and the bar code of the reader is important. If they are not aligned, the last set of digits are more likely to flicker.

I will also add this info to my earlier post so it shows up earlier in the thread.
 
I am adding a note on this thread because I just found another reason for flickering of the digits. Anyone reading this thread and looking for a solution to a similar problem might appreciate this additional info.

Apparently aligning the bar code on the scale and the bar code of the reader is important. If they are not aligned, the last set of digits are more likely to flicker.

I will also add this info to my earlier post so it shows up earlier in the thread.

What's a code bar?
 
What's a code bar?
Well, it's more like bar code not code bar. It's the group of bars that are located at one end of the scale and on one side of the reader head. Apparently they must both be on the same side.
 
Can you shoot a quick video of the issue?
I am able to remove most of the random flashing, even at start-up. I checked the belts, and I was running the mill at 1450 RPM, so a fair increase in speed.

I was able to shoot a video of the continual vibration I have. The "buzzing" sound is the plastic handle on the X-axis as it spins around in circles.


I haven't tried at other speeds yet to compare.

I did add some steel channel iron to the stand where the machine bolts to the stand. I could see deflection on the sheet metal where it was tightened. So the 2" x 1" iron is between the heads of the hold down bolts and the washer and nut that holds the machine down. The channel iron goes from front to back the entire length. (I hope this makes sense)

I am still getting the occasional flashing on the .00X in Imperial. I'm guessing the read head is right on the edge of the markings in those cases.

Also think I will beef up the strap that holds the read head.
 
Well, it's more like bar code not code bar. It's the group of bars that are located at one end of the scale and on one side of the reader head. Apparently they must both be on the same side.

Glass scale come with the reader pre-installed. Are magnetic scales different?
 
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