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Tool Drill Doctor Experience

Tool
I use my 750X to regrind dull drills into 135's with split point. (I grind the tip off on a belt sander before feeding it to the 750. When I have a few hours of work into a part I don't care to mess it up with a drill bit that isn't drilling properly.

If I want drills that were ground by hand and drill oversize with high pressure I would buy from the usual suspect sources.

I used my brother's 350 a few times but opted for the 750 due to split pointing.
 
Tecnico said:
@ChazzC Where do you get the aftermarket 220 grit wheels?

D :cool:
Click to expand...
Didn't get yet, but Amazon has them:

Drill Dr 220 Grit.webp
 
I use my 750 fairly often, it’s ok as long as you are careful aligning the bit and don’t wait until the drill bit is truly pooched before you sharpen. Best to use to touch up slightly dull bits, not good for repairing broken or chipped bits.
 
whydontu said:
I use my 750 fairly often, it’s ok as long as you are careful aligning the bit and don’t wait until the drill bit is truly pooched before you sharpen. Best to use to touch up slightly dull bits, not good for repairing broken or chipped bits.
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I grind the end flat, then 135 for those bits. Works great. If the end is really bad (and its a good brand) I use a cutting disc in my Proxxon to get to the good part.
 
I have an XP that was on sale at Cambodian Tire a few years back since I can't seem to get any good results hand grinding. I was very happy with the results. It paid for itself the first day I had it. I had a big box of dull bits I had collected over the years and in about 3 hrs I had resharpened about 100+ bits. If there is any significant damage or chips in it I rough grind the damage out before sharpening.
I have it close to hand and I have been resharpening bits that start to get dull before I put them back in the index.
Other than I cant sharpen anything larger than 1/2" I really like mine
 
ChazzC said:
Didn't get yet, but Amazon has them:

View attachment 46655
Click to expand...
Arrived with a handful of other items late yesterday:
ChazzC said:
Didn't get yet, but Amazon has them:

View attachment 46655
Click to expand...
Arrived with a handful of other items from Amazon late yesterday:

20240417 Drill Dr 220 Grit.JPEG

Plating looks as good or better than the OEM 100 grit wheel I bought a while back, and is also comparable to industrial plated diamond tooling I used to get for working with friction composites back in the 90's. should be good for touching up bits. The only issue I have is that the rim isn't stamped "220," like the OEM 100 grit one is (easily corrected with a HF "Sharpie:"

20240417 HF 70060 Marker.webp
 
I used to have 750 but sold it - got a super old Darex M1.

Main problem with 750 or similar is their luck of power when working on larger bits. It takes a long time to do a good job. I think it is intentional - it is to keep them away from much more expensive professional stuff.
 
I can freehand a decently working drill in not too much time, have done a LOT of them without bothering to remove the bit from the drill, while I was working on airplanes for a living drilling out and installing LOTS of rivets....

I have read a LOT about the Drill Doctor, and as I recall, discussion of them drew in so much traffic of other guys looking for answers to why they did not work, they were banned as a subject of discussion on the PM Forum some time back. Generally not very confidence inspiring.

We had a small Darex rig in the sheet metal shop I last worked in, it was a pretty effective tool, though it still needed a fair bit of experience to get decent results with. That one used all metal collet chucks for holding the bits. The experience was required in order to read the results and adjust the drill fore or aft as needed, as the 'indexing' was done against a portion of the flutes about half an inch back from the tip, and different drill makers have their own ideas about how fast a helix to build in to those drills... Made a nice split point though.
 
trevj said:
I can freehand a decently working drill in not too much time, have done a LOT of them without bothering to remove the bit from the drill, while I was working on airplanes for a living drilling out and installing LOTS of rivets....

I have read a LOT about the Drill Doctor, and as I recall, discussion of them drew in so much traffic of other guys looking for answers to why they did not work, they were banned as a subject of discussion on the PM Forum some time back. Generally not very confidence inspiring.

We had a small Darex rig in the sheet metal shop I last worked in, it was a pretty effective tool, though it still needed a fair bit of experience to get decent results with. That one used all metal collet chucks for holding the bits. The experience was required in order to read the results and adjust the drill fore or aft as needed, as the 'indexing' was done against a portion of the flutes about half an inch back from the tip, and different drill makers have their own ideas about how fast a helix to build in to those drills... Made a nice split point though.
Click to expand...

That was probably M2 - M1 is difficult to make a split point. Yeah I have to re-read instructions each time I use it. Frequently, I just sharpen by hand on a grinder as it is much faster. Heck, M1 has a grinder wheel on the left - I just use that ;)

It is 120v - I guess I could bring it to the meeting to compare with Drill doctor - through M2 and newer models are much nicer.
 
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