Tool Do I need a Machinist Clamping Set?

[FatherWes]

I spent 20 minutes test flying my milling machine.
First thing I’ve learned is that clamping is paramount. Near as I can tell, there is no hope of creating a good product if it‘s moving.

I bought one of the clamping kits shown in the original post. Unfortunately, after getting it home I discovered a ‘1/2” clamping set’ refers to the stud diameter and not the t-slot width. I need the 3/8” set for my 1/2” t-slots. Replacement will have to wait for the next trip to the big city.

 

[Janger]

Making t nuts, cutting up ready rod, making clamp bars is almost a rite of passage. Harold Hall in his milling book explains how to do that without any clamps! It’s worth buying a copy.

 

[little ol' e]

I agree with others to make your own as needed.
4140 is decent enough material for t-nuts, although mine are made from A2 and heat treated. I find S7 threaded rod is much better than the studs offered in any set available on the market these days.

 

[jcdammeyer]

They don't even need to be steel.

 

[Former Member]

Clamps are like the ski bindings of your machine.

Think of it this way, they hold your work in place but should you inadvertently exceed the limits with a to an aggressive feed, they let your part slip to prevent damage to more expensive parts of your machine.

The stronger the machine the stronger the clamping.

So a release is not always a bad thing.

 

[Former Member]

T nuts that i have made are from mild steel (cold rolled or hot rolled) more than enough strength as that form to the T-slots while causing no damage.

 

[Susquatch]

Unfortunately, after getting it home I discovered a ‘1/2” clamping set’ refers to the stud diameter and not the t-slot width.

Don't you hate that! I've learned to read all the specs not just the base size in such things. I did exactly the same thing you did. They would not take them back either. Fortunately, years later I bought another tool with that size of t-nuts.

A few other mistakes I've made are:

The drawbar threads are not universal. Watch out when you buy tapers. Also watch out for with and without tangs.

Same goes for tool holders.

Same goes for facemill holders and other shanks.

Watch out for collet blocks and 123 blocks - buy them in matched sets or risk finding big differences.

Watch out for indicator holders and indicator shanks. They like to bite you just when you need them most.

I'm sure others can supplement this short list, but it's all I can think of right now.

 

[StevSmar]

A few other mistakes I've made are:…

…I'm sure others can supplement this short list, but it's all I can think of right now.

Thanks for your list, that’s helpful for me to know the pitfalls you’ve run into.

Maybe it would be good to have a “Tool buying mistakes I’ve made” thread?

 

[Susquatch]

Thanks for your list, that’s helpful for me to know the pitfalls you’ve run into.

Maybe it would be good to have a “Tool buying mistakes I’ve made” thread?

I agree. I had that same thought when I posted above. If only such a thing existed before I F'd up and if only I read it.

I have other priorities today, but I'll look at what it would take to do that from this thread.