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Deck problem

@Janger I will try and get to the garage tonight and see what I can mount on my circular saw from the dado set I have if your still wanting to investigate going that route.
 
The arbor on a circ saw is short for a reason. Same for the small benchtop table saws. Running a dado blade on one is a bad idea. Even a "wobbler" blade I would not try if it would fit. But they DO make wobblers fit short arbor saws as a work around. TO me it falls under the "just because you can, doesn't mean you should" category.

Having said that, I would be personally curious how my big worm drive Milwaukee would do with doubled up and staggered ripping blades in this situation. But I wouldn't recommend someone else try it. If it were my deck I might entertain the idea though...... Even still, with doubled up 1/8" kerf blades, you'd only end up with a gap just under 1/4", which might still be too small to clear the debris that falls on this deck.

How long is the deck? You don't need an elaborate guide, just some straight lumber clamped on the ends should suffice. Finding a straight one might be the hardpart... You could always take your time and free hand it too. Once you get one groove done, you could reference it with a ripping guide like shown above to fit that groove. I'm assuming the front edge has a railing or something preventing you from starting with a ripping guide from there.
 
thestelster said:
Dado blade?
Click to expand...
Heavens, no...
Hruul said:
but I would not use it in a circular saw.
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absolutely. Dado blades kick back with high energy. in a hand held device the problems would be devastating.

Use a router. Even a trim router will do nicely. You do NOT take the cut in a single pass, but take multiple cuts at different depths. The first cut can be deeper, as the rounded edges leave less material to remove. The middle cut(s) will be about 1/3 to 1/2 the depth, and when you are through the contact area, the last cut will be the same as the first cut. Use a guide on BOTH sides of the router. I have a 2HP router you can use, if you don't have a router.
 
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Dabbler said:

5 Wide Kerf Saw Blades | Compare Side By Side (2022)

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Click to expand...
I read that article and went whaaaat?

I’ll quote a few gems so you don’t have to read it.

“ In addition, a few strongly agree that the blade is a zero clearance kerf on the sled.”

“The micro-kerf widekerf sawblade is great for smoothness of cut, is designed to worth every penny and it is built with birch ply.”

I also love how they show pictures of special thin kerf blades while
trying to discuss thick kerf blades.

I read up on who these whywelikeit guys are they claim to have expert reviewers augmented with state of the art AI analysis. Well if this is AI we don’t have much to be concerned about.

I love saw blades made of birch ply they’re the best!
 
I really don't know of a wide kerf saw blade that will work well in anything less than a worm drive saw. The torque requirement is just too great. (same for Dado blades..,.) Plus the safety factor.
 

Kerf Width​


Saw blade kerf is generally measured in thousandths of an inch. A typical “full kerf” blade will have a kerf of about 1.110”. Some heavy duty blades can have a kerf of 0.125” (1/8”) or even 0.172” (11/64”). If kerf is too thick for a weak circular saw (saws ranging less than 2 HP), it will rotate below the average speed and start to grind the wood. Thin kerf blades will generally be 25% thinner, creating a cut of 0.091” or about 3/32”. The thinnest kerf circular saw blades currently made are 0.059” (about 1/16”) thick. This is especially helpful for making precise cuts on engineered lumber or plywood. These thinner blades cannot absorb impacts so well, and are more prone to bending from stress than thicker blades. Therefore it is extremely important to ensure that the wood doesn’t twist in the saw, jamming the blade and possibly bending it. The blade plate on thin-kerf shouldn’t be bendable at any cost; in order to run straight, factory-engraved expansion slots are used to prevent overheating and possible deformations. Although they can be resharpened, they tend to get dull quicker and not be resharpenable as many times.

this is quoted from http://circularsawblade.net/kerf
 
I measured the thickness of the dado blades I have. Never put them on the circular saw, its too hot and I didn't see the point. Each dado blade is 3/32" thick and 3/16" on the cutter. They are meant to be used with at least two blades as the cutters are offset to create a smooth cut. The blade I have on the circular saw currently has about 3/32" on the cutter and the blade is less than that. It says on the Dado package I have (for table saw and radial arm saw only). I got the 6" set back when I had a portable job site table saw and 6" dado was all that it was rated for. Cutting 3/4" dadoes about 3/8" deep in one pass with it was all the saw would really handle in plywood. Cutting a strip between two boards would be even harder.
 
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