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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

Susquatch said:
Your post doesn't need a reply, but I felt my laughing out loud emoticon needed a bit more lest it be interpreted as laughing at a stupid idea - which it is not.

Out of the mouth's of babes they say. Cool idea! So what would you put up there?
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Here's a shot of the back of the shop showing the proximity to the house.
Imagine a foot bridge going up a couple of steps from the house stairs then across to the roof.
It would be a small shed, maybe 6'x6' basically above the door away and from the power lines. The roof has 2x8 rafters on a 10ft span so plenty strong.
I'd be able to store all of my seldom used tools like my tile saw, Black and Decker saw horse things. If I got brave I could put my compressor or dust collector up there...
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Be careful. Often you are allowed to 'repair' stuff without building permits but even just the stairs up and across to the roof is considered 'new' construction and will likely require a building permit and inspection.

I wanted to replace carport beams that were then already too long for their width according to code. I was told that I could 'repair' the rotted ones with replacements of the same size but not make them bigger. Silly but them's the rules. So I put the same size in but this time made sure it couldn't rot.
 
jcdammeyer said:
Be careful. Often you are allowed to 'repair' stuff without building permits but even just the stairs up and across to the roof is considered 'new' construction and will likely require a building permit and inspection.

I wanted to replace carport beams that were then already too long for their width according to code. I was told that I could 'repair' the rotted ones with replacements of the same size but not make them bigger. Silly but them's the rules. So I put the same size in but this time made sure it couldn't rot.
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Oh yes, I'm 100% sure Saanich would have a fit if I put shed on top of my garage.
Part of my challenge is that I grew up in the country and we just built whatever we felt like building. Dad built a 25x40 shop and didn't get a permit. I miss that.
Oh well, we make do with the situation we're in. Once get the bike out and the wood out I'll gain about 90 sq ft.
 
@jcdammeyer in Calgary the rules for building permits are extraordinarily lax... I hope you don't mind the side note--

Several years ago I was repairing a friend's industrial property. The flat roof had been leaking for years and years, with the attendant roof rot. It was spongy to walk on. I installed a double scissor gambrel roof on top of the building - without any permit - this is considered a 'roof repair' in Calgary. we even had a City inspector come over during construction, 'just in case'... it was fine.
 
Dabbler said:
@jcdammeyer in Calgary the rules for building permits are extraordinarily lax... I hope you don't mind the side note--

Several years ago I was repairing a friend's industrial property. The flat roof had been leaking for years and years, with the attendant roof rot. It was spongy to walk on. I installed a double scissor gambrel roof on top of the building - without any permit - this is considered a 'roof repair' in Calgary. we even had a City inspector come over during construction, 'just in case'... it was fine.
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I've wondered if I could get away with adding rafters and a ridge beam and calling it roof repair. I doubt it because it's not built the same as the original roof.
 
We were using engineered trusses, so we were quite safe. My guess is any alterations in structure might be suspect. However if you are reinforcing a structure, it might be allowed.

I'm 'reinforcing' my trusses in my garage for a bridge crane. I'm sure I'm fine.
 
This was my rotten experience. It's the 3 season 'sun room' built on the outside deck. Apparently without permits. But because we bought the house with it there and the roof had been extended over it it's now an integral part of the house.
DECK4.JPG


Why did it rot? Well. The front bearing wall with the large window and holding up the roof etc was sitting on 5/8" plywood halfway between the two joists. The 4x4 support outboard of the wall was pushing that joist higher than the one on the inside of the wall. So water, which runs downhill apparently, collected in the low spot. Made a low spot because 5/8" plywood isn't that strong.
DECK2.JPG


This was the solution which now sits directly under the bearing wall.

NewPost.jpg


The 4x4 beam has additional supports now too. That's my South Bend under the tarp. Foundry Furnace in the background.
 
Demolition is complete. One of my angle grinders, the Makita went up in smoke. Pity as I liked it.
The sill plate was completely rotter up to about 20" from the house.

Bin arrives tomorrow as will a stucco estimate.
Once the stucco is done I can start putting this back together.
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cutting the stucco likely. I did the same on our previous house. The front wall was rotten under all the wooden windows because the previous owner did not look after them.
 
Yup, Lee is bang on. It was going along just fine, I stopped to peel a chunk of stucco off and when I tried to start it again it kinda juddered and the magic smoke poured out of it. I'll crack it open and see if it's really dead.
 
Dabbler said:
We were using engineered trusses, so we were quite safe. My guess is any alterations in structure might be suspect. However if you are reinforcing a structure, it might be allowed.

I'm 'reinforcing' my trusses in my garage for a bridge crane. I'm sure I'm fine.
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Those Engineered Trusses are excellent, their laminated construction increases their cross-sectional modulus value for better load bearing applications. There is also better long-term protection from deterioration due to humidity and insects because of the inter layer bonding used.
 
LenVW said:
Those Engineered Trusses are excellent, their laminated construction increases their cross-sectional modulus value for better load bearing applications. There is also better long-term protection from deterioration due to humidity and insects because of the inter layer bonding used.
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That's interesting.

One of us has misinterpreted what @Dabbler meant by "engineered truss". I had thought he meant trusses that were prebuilt and pre-approved by an engineer for a given span, application, and construction standard. They are assembled out of regular lumber at a truss yard and delivered in a stack to the job site.

But you thought he meant those man-made Laminated Trus-Joists developed by Weyerhaeuser. I knew the chief engineer at Weyerhaeuser in BC. Great guy.

Assuming @Dabbler meant the man made joists (which come in a million sizes and design types), you are right about their many advantages. But I think you missed their two biggest advantages - which are consistency and big trees are not required. The strength properties of Natural lumber vary all over the map. A simple knot or a growth varience can dramatically reduce their strength. So they are rated at minimum and graded. Trus-Joists are very uniform and the properties are more consistent which makes them much more reliable. They can also be made from small trees which make the forestry management more sustainable.

My home is built with Weyerhaeuser "Silent Floor" Trusses which look and act a bit like wooden I-Beams. I love them. We also have huge 16x6 Trus-Joists for high load bearing locations that would usually use a steel beam.

Can't wait to see which one @Dabbler meant. I'll be happier if it's your version.
 
It's amazing someone would build a wooden structure like that especially in a wet climate. Do you know when that was built?

Yes today's natural lumber is a far cry from what used to be available. My father built my house in the 50's and the floor joists are beautiful knot free, perfectly straight and square clear that I don't think could be bought today. The subfloor was fir plywood and looking at the bottom side of it, which would have been the worst side, it is much nicer than the spruce/pine G1S plywood of today.

I bought "treated" lumber just yesterday for my own outdoor staircase replacement project and the 2x4'd are not even the same thickness of the 2x8's. Good lord man.
 
DPittman said:
It's amazing someone would build a wooden structure like that especially in a wet climate. Do you know when that was built?

Yes today's natural lumber is a far cry from what used to be available. My father built my house in the 50's and the floor joists are beautiful knot free, perfectly straight and square clear that I don't think could be bought today. The subfloor was fir plywood and looking at the bottom side of it, which would have been the worst side, it is much nicer than the spruce/pine G1S plywood of today.

I bought "treated" lumber just yesterday for my own outdoor staircase replacement project and the 2x4'd are not even the same thickness of the 2x8's. Good lord man.
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We've owned the house for sixteen years and it was there when we bought.
In principle it would be fine if there had been proper waterproofing. But non-pressure treated lumber and builder's paper is not going to cut it in this environment.
I'll be rebuilding with cedar deck boards and stair treads on pressure treated framing.
 
DPittman said:
It's amazing someone would build a wooden structure like that especially in a wet climate. Do you know when that was built?

Yes today's natural lumber is a far cry from what used to be available. My father built my house in the 50's and the floor joists are beautiful knot free, perfectly straight and square clear that I don't think could be bought today. The subfloor was fir plywood and looking at the bottom side of it, which would have been the worst side, it is much nicer than the spruce/pine G1S plywood of today.

I bought "treated" lumber just yesterday for my own outdoor staircase replacement project and the 2x4'd are not even the same thickness of the 2x8's. Good lord man.
Click to expand...
Same same.
Bought PT 2x6 and 2x8 for the new pool deck and besides the usual hockey stick curves they were as much as 3/8ths difference end to end on some of them on width.
 
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