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CX706 or CX709?

Oh also, another quality bonus. The front "teeth" on my 4 jaw chuck jaws are about 10-15 thou proud when compared to the rest of em. So much fun.

I was going to gingerly give this a go to grind em back. The radius on the jaws themselves is around 2 3/16" and I have a piece of stock that size I can clamp deeper in the jaws to keep everything secure.
 

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Lol never mind I see what you mean now, grinding the ends can be done. Looking at it it doesn’t look bad it’s pretty well even in the middle just the ends of the jaw are making contact which would probably just give it a better grip on the stock being held. You could always use some copper or brass shims if it is holding a critical part.
 
That's what I thought you meant. Hopefully the deviation gap is a result of a protrusion at the ends or localized area, where cleaning that up will get them true again.

I haven't done any jaw grinding myself (but I'm a professional YouTube Grazer of others who accomplished it which makes me highly qualified LOL). The trick is to somehow lock them in a position that the grinder wheel can do a clean pass from end to end of jaw face. On a 3 jaw scroll, they use something like pie shaped wedges to preload jaws in tightening mode as they converge (as opposed to opening up mode like tightening against the ID of a ring fixture). But independent 4J chuck has no scroll. I'm actually not sure if opening node on a ring ID would be wrong, presuming it was just acting as a positioning fixture to grind one jaw at a time. Then adjust the ring, move the next jaw inward slightly, grind it, rinse & repeat. Ideally note the jaw/ring position radially with an indicator so each jaw gets the same treatment. Most professional advise is to grind them on a surface grinder, but guessing that's not in the cards

Maybe others with more experience have some better input.

A bit of bail wire operation (literally!) judge for yourself if its worth a shot.
 
Tom O said:
Lol never mind I see what you mean now, grinding the ends can be done. Looking at it it doesn’t look bad it’s pretty well even in the middle just the ends of the jaw are making contact which would probably just give it a better grip on the stock being held. You could always use some copper or brass shims if it is holding a critical part.
Click to expand...
It's actually surprisingly hard on whatever material you have in the chuck due to the point but some copper or brass shim material gets rid of this problem. I'll keep y'all in the loop on how my fix goes. I need to spend some time educating myself on grinding then will give it a go.
 
MrHermit said:
It's actually surprisingly hard on whatever material you have in the chuck due to the point but some copper or brass shim material gets rid of this problem. I'll keep y'all in the loop on how my fix goes. I need to spend some time educating myself on grinding then will give it a go.
Click to expand...

Start an new thread when you're ready to post regarding your jaw grinding so that it's not buried in this thread.
 
I guess there is the fun & learning factor aspect of grinding. But for the price of the chuck, are replacement jaws an inexpensive option?. Maybe you just got some Monday models. On a 4J it basically doesn't matter as long as they are the same.

If you are lucky & its a burr on the very end that is causing all the gap, maybe you can just gingerly hand Dremel it off? I guess you would have to know for certain that's the situation though. Might not be easy to discern even by blue-ing / rubbing transfer method. My offshore jaws were quite nice but the screws were rough, lots of burrs & snags along the threads. Mostly it was cleanup work with abrasive rubber & it moved much smoother. Yours is a different issue.
 
I also have a CX709"X" and have learned a bunch from reading this. It was great to save the $1000 (I believe there were only a couple more in Ontario when I bought mine mid-2021), but they aren't w/o their headaches. Keep me in the loop if you guys find a solution to the chuck 'pride' and/or the motor that won't stay in high gear.
 
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