• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Bridgeport Mill Tachometer

wrap wire is 32 ga. snaps when you look at it.

For soldered boards I usually go with just 22 ga solid wire and cut and strip as needed

I think this might be what you have in mind


 
For soldered boards I usually go with just 22 ga solid wire and cut and strip as needed

That's what I use for prototype and breadboard too. Then I keep them for reuse

Braided or stranded wire is useless for this purpose but can be used if you solder the ends to stiffen then up a bit.

The first kit in @whydontu 's post is probably what you want. Saves a lot of stripping and bending.
 
wrap wire is 32 ga. snaps when you look at it.

For soldered boards I usually go with just 22 ga solid wire and cut and strip as needed

I think this might be what you have in mind




Hmmm.... this stuff is too short https://www.amazon.ca/140Pcs-Solderless-Flexible-Breadboard-Jumper/dp/B09NN1P653/ref=sr_1_9?crid=34P31G3LY39C&keywords=breadboard+jumper+wires&qid=1639720643&sprefix=breadboard+jumper+wires,aps,153&sr=8-9&tag=chmw-20 I'm not bread boarding. I want solid wire to go from the nano shield to the sensor, shield to LCD display, shield to on/off switch to battery, battery to shield etc. Preferably with dupont ends.

This stuff maybe? https://www.amazon.ca/Gauge-Wire-Solid-Core-Hookup/dp/B088KQFHV7?th=1 What gauge to get?
 
Last edited:
If you are connecting one board to another, use stranded wire. You will end up with a lot longer life. I go with nickle or tinned copper wire, you can pick up a 100' spool at Active electronics.
 
Hmmm.... this stuff is too short https://www.amazon.ca/140Pcs-Solderless-Flexible-Breadboard-Jumper/dp/B09NN1P653/ref=sr_1_9?crid=34P31G3LY39C&keywords=breadboard+jumper+wires&qid=1639720643&sprefix=breadboard+jumper+wires,aps,153&sr=8-9&tag=chmw-20 I'm not bread boarding. I want solid wire to go from the nano shield to the sensor, shield to LCD display, shield to on/off switch to battery, battery to shield etc. Preferably with dupont ends.

This stuff maybe? https://www.amazon.ca/Gauge-Wire-Solid-Core-Hookup/dp/B088KQFHV7?th=1 What gauge to get?
The 22ga solid is exactly what I use for soldered wiring. I think I misunderstood your question.
 
For most of my hookup wire needs, I re-use old cables.

I have a bunch of 25-pair 24ga telephone cable (salvaged from an old building) that I use for bits of solid wire. Just lop off 4" and you have 50 - 4" pieces of 24ga solid wire for breadboarding in a bunch of colors. Old CAT5/6 works OK, but it is too twisted for my liking. You need to be super careful when striping thin solid wire since the slightest of nicks in the conductor creates a weak point where the wire will break after a few flexes.

For final projects, I have salvaged a bunch of conductors from old computer parallel, serial or SCSI cables. Just rip off the outer jacket and you usually end up with a bunch of 3-10' long 24-30ga stranded wires in multiple colors. HMDI cables can be good too if you have one with a damaged end, or just some extras. They have about 20 conductors of 28ga (or finer) stranded wires in multiple colors inside.

This is of course assuming you are a hoarder of old technology stuff (like me). Things like an old 6'-10' parallel printer (or SCSI) cables are usually available at re-cycling centers or garage sales for $1 or less.
 
I also use the old 4-wire telephone cable, but I was reluctant to suggest as removing the outer jacket is such a pain. Also the wire isn't tinned so can be tricky to solder.
 
As they say in my culture, oy veh. I picked up a couple more Arduino bits, including a 20x4 LCD display. Brain started working, always dangerous. My wife says she can hear the gears grinding when I'm sitting on the couch watching mindless TV.

My mill uses a DC motor, with a KBIC-120 variable speed PWM controller that uses a simple 10K pot to control speed. I also have a Rube Goldberg column lift system using a 120VAC gear motor and a couple of pushbuttons.

So, picture this:

20x4 display
Pot to select material (I use pots, it's easy, cheap, and simple to scale to discreet values using the Arduino AnalogRead function)
Pot to select cutter diameter
Arduino displays material name, cutter diameter, does a lookup from an array to get and display an appropriate SFM value
Calculates and displays appropriate cutter RPM
Reads current RPM

Speed control can be a 10k pot, or a 0-7vdc signal. Problem is the 0-7vdc signal isn’t ground-referenced so my brain hasn’t figured out how to interface the Arduino to the KBIC board.

Photos of my cobbled-together existing control package. The speed control faceplate was my first attempt using a CNC engraver. Not great, but I'm too lazy to re-do it.

Proposed new control panel sketch attached. (the numbers at the top are my way to make sure my display won't run out of characters). I'm pretty sure I can get the entire mess inside an 8x8 electrical box.

Thoughts? (I might beg for your much-better programming skills to work out the stepper control details.)
 

Attachments

  • Mill Head.jpg
    Mill Head.jpg
    548.9 KB · Views: 11
  • MIll Column Lift.jpg
    MIll Column Lift.jpg
    517.5 KB · Views: 11
  • Mill Overview.jpg
    Mill Overview.jpg
    585 KB · Views: 11
  • Mill Control.jpg
    Mill Control.jpg
    417.9 KB · Views: 11
  • Mill Control 12-18-2021.jpg
    Mill Control 12-18-2021.jpg
    32.4 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:
sort of. JST will work with Dupont, but JST is 2.5mm spacing but Dupont is 2.54mm spacing. Works OK for single-row up to about 6 conductors, anything more and the mis-match of pin spacing starts to be a problem.
 
I go through this JST headache on my RC stuff. Even under the Japan Solderless Terminal standard the dimensions vary by series name.

To make matters more confusing, there is a lot of stuff sold under JST name where they presumably attempt to copy the dimensional standard but quality sucks, they are 'different' Or they kind of make up their own rules & standards without documenting (so again different). So beware hobby & ebay/amazon type stuff, it can be a bit of crap shoot. If you buy from a reputable electronics supplier you stand a better chance. Sometimes its worth it, sometimes not. If the clone price is low & its not critical application, some buy a combo bag of 100 male and female & label it Ebay Sh*t dd/mm/yy & they function together. It may not properly engage a 'real' JST plug though.
 
What RC stuff?
 
Thanks Craig, the radial build is rabbit hole #103 but more the mechanical rabbit hole, not the RC flying rabbit hole LOL (I see I kind of fell off the wagon posting, but construction has continued!)

More what I meant was all the crazy number of electrical plugs & connectors out there now. It's getting so hard to keep track of. Especially with offshore suppliers that throw out trade names or standards with reckless abandon, but no real guarantee theirs actually match. Also varying quality of pins & housings. So I'm just saying 'don't assume'. But these comments may be weighted to RC. Back in the day life was simple with just a few standardized plugs. But now the hobby is so multi-faceted, electric models, drones, FPV, whatever... & therefore all the electronic sub-components that support them. Life is getting 'interesting'.
 
Radio Control (model aircraft).

I had hoped that is what you meant. I don't think I mentioned RC in my hobbies list, but it is there. I only have one airplane - a Corsaire that I have never flown. Not enough runway space for me even though I have a farm. Too many rocks. Too many bumps. Too much mud.

So my real RC passion is Helicopters. I have 6 minus 1. The 1 was really a drone that had a stroke and headed off into Lala land on its own. It never came home. I still have not found it. But it has to be out there within 4 miles or so.

So now I have 5 ranging from a tiny little Nano CPx that I have not been able to break to a big 790mm 360 CFX that I don't really enjoy. It's just too much bird. My favorite is a 200 class bird that is just plain fun to fly - fast, agile, bucks the wind, and seems quite adept at reading my mind.

The biggest thorn in my side is the new rules which preclude flying RC near the airport - I am in the circle. So it's been a good 2 years since I've been able fly anything. I might have to learn how all over again!
 
Down near the bottom of this page is a video link showing some crimping basics. The plugs & wires & orientation & bodies might have their own subtleties depending on the connector type, but something to get you started.

 
Back
Top