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AXA Tool Holder for Tapered Cut Off Blades

Ah, ok. The tool rest on that grinder was set to about 10*-12* of clearance behind the front cutting edge?

Sanding belts may not give a sharp enough edge depending on the bonding material of the abrasive, the abrasive micro geometry, etc, and leave a “rounded over” top edge.

Might want to try a regular bench grinder, just like Tom shows in the video that Darrin posted above.

Not saying one should not use sanding belts to sharpen HSS, could just be that the combo of belt, HSS properties in this particular case are not compatible.
 
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Thats the same blade that I have on my Emco, although mine is 11/16".

Also, what kind of HP does your lathe have? Too little and you'll have problems parting.

1/2 HP. But I seem to be getting somewhere now after taking @RobinHood 's advice and tuning the blade up on the bench grinder rather than my belt sander.....

TBladeChips.JPG


I also dressed the edges with a fine stone. Can plow right through now without stopping.
 
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1/2 HP. But I seem to be getting somewhere now after taking @RobinHood 's advice and tuning the blade up on the bench grinder rather than my belt sander.....

View attachment 21320

I also dressed the edges with a fine stone. Can plow right through now without stopping.

Hey Craig look what happens when you don't give up, well done! However there's a hidden lesson here for all of us, when one is having problems with tooling please, please provide the background music in this case 'how the cut off blade was sharpened'. Had we known this from the beginning I'm positive the issue would have been resolved quickly. As for me I assumed Craig sharpened same using a grinder although I wondered about the ragged face edge on his blade from his photo.

Bottom line when you post don't be shy with providing full details, none of us are mind readers. Just saying!
 
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Good progress, Craig.

Looks like your blade got a bit warm - either while grinding or during the parting operation.

To keep it cool during sharpening, you can use a cup of water and the “grind & dunk” method. Grind maybe 3-5 seconds and dunk for ten seconds (or whatever time frames you work out without getting the blade warmer than to the touch).

HSS is normally not too finicky when it comes to losing hardness during grinding due to heat build-up; but one never knows with the different manufacturers‘ HT processes.

Also, you can afford to reduce the clearance under the tip a bit - it will make it even stronger and the blade should perform even better.

97690196-7DD2-4610-AF39-FF07AC00C64D.jpeg
 
Hey Craig look what happens when you don't give up, well done! However there's a hidden lesson here for all of us, when one is having problems with tooling please, please provide the background music in this case 'how the cut off blade was sharpened'. Had we known this from the beginning I'm positive the issue would have been resolved quickly. As for me I assumed Craig sharpened same using a grinder although I wondered about the ragged face edge on his blade from his photo.

Bottom line when you post don't be shy with providing full details, none of us are mind readers. Just saying!

Initially I didn't do anything to the blade, I was trying to use it as delivered. Seemed sharp enough. The rough edge was as delivered, you can see it in the Amazon images. There after Initial tuning was done on the belt sander because why not, knife makers use belt sanders?

1645678334213.jpeg
 
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Glad you are making real chips now.
Maybe this is photo parallax but it looks like your blade is high relative to rotation center? Someone pointed out that the ruler method is just a ballpark estimate if you bring a new tool to work or otherwise impractical to remove the part. But the way you have it now presents a great opportunity to part off say 3/4 blade width & closely observe the middle as it approaches center. If it has a remaining nub, cutting tool is passing low & should be raised. If its rubbing off the nub prematurely, then opposite situation - blade is high. It should be very evident.

Once you have it set, leave it there. Next time you sharpen, you have to repeat the process on scrap. Then the tool assembly is ready to go when the real job arrives. Don't forget to tighten the toolpost height set nut as well, if its loose the blade position can drift with repeated use.
 

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Initially I didn't do anything to the blade, I was trying to use it as delivered. Seemed sharp enough. The rough edge was as delivered, you can see it in the Amazon images.

For what it's worth Craig, I never use stuff like that as delivered. I find they just don't take the time to hone an edge like I do. The only exception to that is the ARWarner bits. Those inserts are perfect just the way they come out of the box. There may be other examples out there, but I have not found them yet.

I may be overly anal about it, but I like an edge that I grind on a regular wheel first, then on a low speed water wheel, and finally with jewelers rouge on a leather strop wheel. It makes a difference.

Hasn't helped my parting though...... ;)

Also, make yourself a tool height standard for setting zero on your tools. You will never regret it.
 
Glad you are making real chips now.
Maybe this is photo parallax but it looks like your blade is high relative to rotation center? Someone pointed out that the ruler method is just a ballpark estimate if you bring a new tool to work or otherwise impractical to remove the part. But the way you have it now presents a great opportunity to part off say 3/4 blade width & closely observe the middle as it approaches center. If it has a remaining nub, cutting tool is passing low & should be raised. If its rubbing off the nub prematurely, then opposite situation - blade is high. It should be very evident.

Once you have it set, leave it there. Next time you sharpen, you have to repeat the process on scrap. Then the tool assembly is ready to go when the real job arrives. Don't forget to tighten the toolpost height set nut as well, if its loose the blade position can drift with repeated use.

It's still a tiny bit too low, but what you described is exactly what I did. After the first successful pass I chased out the nub a little bit at a time. There just gets to be a point where chasing it isn't getting you anywhere.
 
Btw, I did some parting today the regular way on a grade 5 bolt I was converting from 3/4 to metric 16mm. Worked great this time.
 
The things that happen in Saskatchewan...

100 mph goat

Two Saskatchewan farm boys were out hunting, and they came upon a huge hole in the ground.

They approached it and were amazed at its size. The first hunter said, "Wow, that's some hole -

I can't even see the bottom - I wonder how deep it is." The second hunter said, "I don't know -

Let's throw something down there, listen, and see how long it takes to hit bottom."


The first hunter said, "Hey, there's an old tractor gear box over there - give me a hand and

we'll throw it in and see." So they picked up the gear box, carried it over to the hole, counted

one-two-three, and heaved it in. They were standing there looking over the edge of the hole

and listening when they heard a rustling behind them.


As they turned around, they saw a goat come crashing through the underbrush, run up to the

hole, and without hesitation, jump in head first. While they were standing there staring at each

other in amazement, they peered into the hole, trying to figure out what that was all about.


Just then an old farmer sauntered up. "Say there," said the farmer, "you fellers didn't happen

to see my goat around here anywhere, did you?" The first hunter said, "Funny you should ask -

We were just standing here a minute ago, and a goat came running out of the bushes doing

about a hundred miles an hour and jumped head first into this here hole!" The old farmer said,

"Naw, that's impossible. I had him chained to a gear box."


 
@YYCHM said 'man that was a long month'. Installed Feb 8, removed Mar 10. Now to get my fingers working again.......

I'm continue to struggle with my right knee motion, hit a wall at 75 degrees which means I cannot sit in a chair without having my right leg sticking out some. Not ready to give up just yet.
 
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