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WTB - watchmaker lathe

WestVinTools

Active Member
Good day everyone. As the title says I am looking for a watchmakers lathe someone might be thinking of selling. Base, headstock, tailstock, tool post (doesn't have to have a compound but one would be nice). Collets, chucks would be good as well. Trying not to break the bank depending what's included.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

Eric
 
Good day everyone. As the title says I am looking for a watchmakers lathe someone might be thinking of selling. Base, headstock, tailstock, tool post (doesn't have to have a compound but one would be nice). Collets, chucks would be good as well. Trying not to break the bank depending what's included.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

Eric
location would be helpful for people
 
Thanks Gordie....I go on his site here and there.....$14k for a Schaublin is a little out of my reach. Thanks for looking though
 
Thanks Gordie....I go on his site here and there.....$14k for a Schaublin is a little out of my reach. Thanks for looking though

Neils is the only place to ever sell a meyrat & luisoni tousdiamants milling machine like I have, that was not a simple equipment dealer that is.. I'd shudder to think what the shipping costs would be though
 
This Gilman is local to me. Seems expensive for what it is. The Shaublin has a better pedigree and parts availability


Depends what you want to do, I guess. I have a Taig with a 5C headstock and the original headstock threaded for 3 and 4 Jaw chucks, collets etc. It has power feed as well as a milling attachment. I've cut 1mm screws with it using its steady rest and dies in the tailstock. Had to. Lost a screw for a dial indicator.
 
Taig spindle can be re-bored to MT1 for a Sherline MT1-WW adapter. Works very well when the finish machining is done on the Taig itself. Taig spindles are not expensive to buy so you can experiment :)
I kept looking for a watchmaker lathe. Converting my Taig was the answer. In 2 years of looking never found a bargain (as in <1000) with a slide rest and tail stock. I did eventually get given 2 lathes, one has a shop made bed and tailstock, the other is an Elson but has no tail stock. Neither have a slide rest although I have plans to make one RSN.
 
"a meyrat & luisoni tousdiamants milling machine like I have.."

First wordle and now this.

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R6XVkdQJGjcg5QRxA6rwca1kCi5CTBPYHgmcn87uQFABgq3Ot0khmaPf4cIIHJso78dz84RWdqq7Gl18fX7cfj1Ir2WSwZkEcZDRFIIkBu1eYUregL5WL7Po9pkz-NO-nfC53ZzQuEa-xURgRSwPjL9Yqu92JaND2VgN8VVbg9KyXyTDmIkZ7ou2wQdPlzXI3YyN_85X6PnQpaZeGLeyjAuFXEFRnlJoiUgBURelTD4RSL6u80xxyh_flBA9OpVYBAoJcu6RhakvzfC-glyWAVqg-ChXo2ubtB23sOxclmbYPOEThAuE7kq5DpxhnSJCHGcIBB9xZ7f36O3ouJRo0rj48KKqPSyrXfJ4vUfkxkjWL9tua_g8IbHgNh3wxvfvALSy68HXQlp9FAXTiO1WtKHH4Mn49MEhV2ux0HhfrboMvgXsbavOyUiwwS_EVi3ZM2ScSLzDCDIRJaaeF2sYZZnx04BaMeLwTsFjZZJI1bXrrxAx_zDjgXXDhahk1ypW_XdZlL7jG8ylh3gXl4fAwolTv6j3L_FRBXeFz5ZnBBZd27VXCassAzbUGysCE2CnlxVW9UIVWbVnSXweqw3pTnn-TTsRpDHKdWW7ekuyy0YI8YNQYEETCXTGJ2Hg9yF_Pja8qSfielrHlbjLTnzkiwLz0uYmxpwBTchv0rattCDzyWnb-HlDc4KXtZmeaIuXk2bn0n9GhrYx-HjUjxd-7cvnnBC477FpUu56gObRH4x97DuEszBBTRH5iVi8C6QNFfTjtv0zVPvRclpyt2M-MxCpDeCC7P-6XOXLzSF4U1RRgAyd7O0uhNn-rbeKpkHH00pAiMP9CkNujzx6IvnkcbJAdqcW9gtPwxjbmCLEqfDN4VFM2dPnA0U09xIy03GZ95oTnZIKxxUrJZbHR7SOrv5pCN5X2X797q7Vtx-7QfkhGrQI=w525-h700-no
 
I'm not really addressing your Q as I don't have one for sale or a good lead, but some thoughts on the subject....

First, what are you making with it? I'd guess 99% of watchmakers lathes were sold without slide rests, as the most common watchmakers jobs done on them is making balance staffs (hand graver work), pivot polishing and repair/replacement of broken pivots....non of which requires a slide rest.

For watchwork, I'd be focused on an 8mm set up with lots of collets (which it sounds like you are). On a proper watchmakers lathe the collets will be graduation in 0.1mm increments and have pretty much no measurable runout. Part of what makes it a watchmakers lathe is its small and you can safely get your face right in there; work is with a loupe and hand graver so you don't want a big headstock in the way.

A set of collets easily can exceed the value of a basic lathe, so its usually advantageous to get a good package deal. I reconditioned (brought to factory new accuracy, all wear removed) a Schaublin 70 and traded it for a 10mm Levin collet set (complete, 0.1 mm and also by 1/64, full set) to give a sense of how much of the value of a package is in the collets.

Neils is very proud of his stuff, but I suppose it must sell, else he wouldn't be in business. There was a very well equipped Schaublin 70 around Sarnia recently for irrc 7500, was on facebook. Not sure if it sold or was just taken down. A lot of money for sure, but for that lathe well accessorized, imo, a good deal. Its bigger than a watchmakers lathe; makes it capable of more, but also less convenient for say a balance staff.

imo that Gilman is grossly over priced. Hardly any collets and its a 10mm lathe making the collets harder to come by than the typical 8mm watchmakers lathe. Its not the original drive. That drive came from a Hauser machine...its very close to my Hauser pivot polisher drive, photo below, but oriented the opposite way.

As a budget, for a good lathe with a set of collets, 1500+, start adding in chucks and slide rests, 2000, maybe 2500+ but it can be a lot of more than that for the best and most complete set up, but deals do happen. Its also going to depend quite a bit on the pedigree. Anything less than 1000 with a full set of collets, keep the car warmed up!

John, you want to buy a work head for that facetting machine? Only most of an arm and leg lol

LHTtHWk.jpg


7dOxLSV.jpg

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1671189681939.jpeg
 
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John, you want to buy a work head for that facetting machine? Only most of an arm and leg lol

LHTtHWk.jpg


7dOxLSV.jpg

.

Thanks but I have two... albeit in need of the replacement of the two expanding arbors which came to me broken. I've got them disassembled and in a box at the moment. They looked really rough and rusty but cleaned up very well. The heads on both of mine looks fairly different from yours. One is close but still fairly different. Interesting.

IF I can't figure out how they go back together I guess I'll have to fork over an arm and a leg. Is this one you own or that you know of for sale?

UOPPT6bHaPClz5B7lBJOitPc0qovm7WUpxWOy4fDLtd5gtE8CGM99f39EFxs3o8Z0sFxjzjwny-0pPzD_LMIhPPrSGigWvLXhSo0GZl146yO5Yu5LOJXNb-J6K4e9iD0PBMdImHOyg0QOvIe434ABTo09Xd9sXa7a27eaVzQ_BizXWafWiqpDKDTmpxurRoKVRs-ddR-sAQW9O2IzyCZ-Rafzicj4L-uoTBYvdYmEpVPrT1WHOXzHU6vxG1m2tIOHSH-NrKfIyXzZQsy6gPA4UIChpWjQVGGC6Dt57J_FTcG5yYKuhCh0s4DK_yfrv51nKg2IfHMzn-0qtrxCr8F1YPdgRzkOQ2xmjfGVVjATkfYsEUXTN3LprMCZqjZbHHFJHmt6h45bqE7CPe-mK21O9Qlex8GR1EiJqNcM3Mg5And85lbN5Zjk1qJRmww2RkT6mdLcEgpCwVowBvnG1WXK72n7M34uv82h8xv2Sd6WMnJklNwVlaLEyZAsPMYK1t-Cd49UDgRUhpWUbK0LlMzucrayCNpfihAauH-2BQD2skzV0OtFIP0id75OSd00wnAxT-13x4Cnv0dCJqZK2ySWHPNjoLcbfaDG3UD_ssMcv9U5vO1Jss8KvybN01ACg-BK2vKZBd-jOY470Y_eFqi_i_ZhPYpqWGWTTKHy0z6vAftOjJU2yhRD83-jJ5PsTtm4y4ev4k8v7q2QJOV9PBNyL2xVm9yVdokx0jLniVfOXW6eUR0KZBsmicvtycnyKNzxKhcSNthABryA4vKkWdJfK0628hfsObMXNdRorWJUuSL6Xz5cajnobQfOcxBXQiemfMpwfZUolp6Q7j9z6F0S5SmTwpuQQnqwV5j_1PSEljVokzzbV711OnUBTQ0MV5_outjcHQUC3eqx_rESqsumIdtW1rtyb5vGatzqtYr0_ZZcK2j=w1010-h757-no


WilD3M5tUqaEqf1HW3nH8FrUs0IJRT5RMBf-6glykMlXcMNde1ugVieIGFUJ8SFqvWq9JwxAWvY_kZODzPttRRRfa0KBcmA7Dxl_0BTijlT-iqU87dak3bc8OyEHlTbvcJ8jo6VqYaQOm7oqTI13klnQ4-oV7fsZrrttEub4I11Eel1vByxYbHp6BMD2A9IBkFH2Z8Um1yoJ5Xww_mXe2WXuDnnCjxsK76ZhF7ugA2raXFBXPBfkDfeQc0jaZ4aO_Nf5bjGRZVge7gdTLLZmH5BzHRmuWwA78nyJ1jbx8MkPsS2OBt9IUkOOrbISrfPD87M5ZIpEW-DU_crl1Odrg0A4wfMwJdAA3wCDCYvqPw8Du_Z3Ac21nuug7ovnOY7wWjd5-MbEGNX_cn0aTqTa2ljDDUErsdDgsaLgbM2lSSCm3MZKM1nZQ-jfaY5kH-t2ngRSzP3Mze6owErc9vTlAnpgs4-xpkxAAORJ2FgTfpyUlxtfES1Rcr7lJMa-DseNHGCyDlvgVtWdEJPkKI2k2qid-15BzS0VxJ5XTBJdLJRF5L8NH_h1YtBcP4rWqe3R9HAh9_I9XHxc0OGeuylkTOalhNaQfVYiQGhn1pGHAOg6PZ-Tl08eGcyfagPUE0DPtPlRlwZOBUmhlY-2z8Hm3fFVHb9a_oQ1YN1dEEjORimVExRj6KPn183MOUMg6XAOoNqbaF_Nbfi-6-bQu13CK2-CK1ZGI42y7YD2NIu_i7-_Fo5SiWqZnDx5w72TSH4ZE35pubhPrOueP9ZunAwCq1JEwDjhHWPgNDJ6CX0k0S5z912epF62oADs6qYC2WXJWvyL40nA4VheWWpbw5pUHsWZaJYHwC4e_hhYvxvO8Js-Jjj1kbgGBo1AO-JiRdu0nZ4SYKovYSr9M2tyYjDAecT5oKH52IcH-gjxT4XFPqjmkY_3=w1010-h757-no
 
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lol, well thank you. Just say it a bit louder so the wife hears

IF I can't figure out how they go back together I guess I'll have to fork over an arm and a leg. Is this one you own or that you know of for sale?

Its mine. Hadn't really thought about selling it, don't have a current need but the second you sell some fancy swiss bit of kit, you think of some application that it would be perfect for.
 
lol, well thank you. Just say it a bit louder so the wife hears



Its mine. Hadn't really thought about selling it, don't have a current need but the second you sell some fancy swiss bit of kit, you think of some application that it would be perfect for.
don't I know it.

I have a few ideas planned for mine... including its intended purpose of cutting facets on jewelry. I'm still trying to get wife into jewelry making... but I need to find the missing parts to the fly cutter that goes with the mill. New they're also an arm and leg.

Not in the market to buy, but I would not mind getting a closer look at yours to compare with mine, and how they may differ in function though
 
Good day everyone. As the title says I am looking for a watchmakers lathe someone might be thinking of selling. Base, headstock, tailstock, tool post (doesn't have to have a compound but one would be nice). Collets, chucks would be good as well. Trying not to break the bank depending what's included.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

Eric
not sure if this suits your needs...

62ead29d-b688-4c24-b458-2714eb8acb51


 
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