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Who Sold or Imported Zay machines?

cannuck

Active Member
A few years back one of the long time machine and welding shops (Frank's) shut down for owner to retire. I wanted some momento but was out of country for the sale, so had my wife buy a milling machine and band saw. The mill is a little vertical dovetail Zay 7045FG. Chinese made I assume but if Frank had it (he rebuilt machine tools) not likely a bad machine. Problem is: it is wired 110V and at 2HP it pushes past a 20A breaker if heavily loaded, so I need to switch 20 220V. I work with a bunch of EEs, CETs and electricians and NONE of them can figure out what the really bad wiring diagram on the motor plate shows for conversion of voltage. The diagram tells you which terminal on the connection block is connected to what jumpers and SOME of the external wires, but not all (4 wire motor as reversible).

So, I need to contact someone who sold these things originally to get the mystery solved (unless someone here has any answer).
 
Get the motor info off its plate. Make, model, etc. And search for that and post here. Pretty sure that info will be of more use than the maker of the machine.

Also, did you open the motor and drum switch boxes. Sometimes there is a wiring diagram in there.

Lastly, check the wiring in the motor connection box and make note of any labels as well as the possibility of very faint markings on the wires - sometimes as faint as a pressed in letter or number.
 
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Get the motor info off its plate. Make, model, etc. And search for that and post here. Pretty sure that info will be of more use than the maker of the machine.

Also, did you open the motor and drum switch boxes. Sometimes there is a wiring diagram in there.

Lastly, check the wiring in the motor connection box and make note of any labels as well as the possibility of very faint markings on the wires - sometimes as faint as a pressed in letter or number.
The motor ID plate IS the source of incorrect/insufficient information. I have mapped the rotary switch but without being able to identify the 4 wires the do motor CW and motor CCW can't do those connections. It clearly shows how to switch the windings from parallel to series (i.e. 110 to 220) but not where the 4 wires go. The ID plate does NOT have manufacturer's name - only a trademark that nobody I have spoken with can identify.
 
Zay 7045FG mill looks like a RF45 type clone.

The grizzly G0755 manual has a great wiring diagram that may help.


But looking at the data plate for your motor will really help.
Beautiful manual and no question this thing is a clone, but wiring quite different. I have the correct manual and its wiring diagram shows 4 wires going to the motor, but no ident as to which wire is which wire. Similarly instead of a rotary switch with terminal numbers it just shows a set or random double contacts (not at all same as the actual switch.

Need to find original importer or dealers as they will have had to deal with this exact problem.
 
Try these guys - Bell Machinery in Vancouver. They do used and new, they show a Zay 7045/in stock. Worth a try to see if they can look at their machine and see if it has the same motor. And no problems getting a Chinese wiring diagram translated to English in. Vancouver, 50% of my neighbours could do it.

 
owners manual, unfortunately the wiring diagram is for three-phase
thanks. There are several versions of that manual on the interwebs, but this is the only one I have seen the covers the connecting wires to motor - but of course very different for single phase to get reverse rotation and dual voltage.
 
That
Here’s a manual with 220v single-phase wiring

That is the manual I have. Does not have same labelling on wiring, does not show the motor connection board with 110 to 220 jumpers, does not identify the rotary switch terminals (VERY different from the 4 x 2 set of contacts). I have mapped the rotary switch so no mystery there, it has obvious terminals for CW and CCW. The mystery is what wire goes to what terminal on the motor terminal block. The manual shown is 220 only and if you had to connect from that diagram would only work if you had the same reversing switch.
 
Used dual voltage single phase motors are not expensive. Find one that is properly labelled and be done with this issue.

Can you post the wiring diagram that is on your motor now? What looks silly to you might make sense to one of us.

If your call today doesn't pan out, you could also try mapping the wires as a last resort.

Label and map them (make a drawing that shows them all with labels connected as is) with durable wiring labels, then disconnect them all and start testing them in pairs for continuity and resistance. After they are disconnected, you can easily determine which ones are 120 in. Then you will need to experiment with various combinations energizing only one pair of wires at a time.

I was going to describe this process and was looking for wiring diagrams when I found this article. It covers the same subject, but being written by someone else I get to duck culpability if the magic smoke arrives. It's also the reverse conversion of what you want to do (he is going from 220 to 110) but that actually makes it easier for you to figure out your own situation.

PS - I didn't watch the video. I hate videos. But there is enough in the article itself to help you do what you need to do.


If you are afraid if the wiring, the easiest and safest by far is to just go get another motor.
 
Another option is to take it to a local motor shop and ask them to rewire it for you. They will have the test equipment and knowledge to do that in 5 minutes. Might cost you 50 bucks.
 
Here is what I am seeing. I have to say, attaching a pic with this site's software is fantastic.

6 wires as you would expect with any dual voltage motor, but what makes it hard to do with just an ohmeter is that it has to be able to reverse. To make matters worse, it is cap start and cap run so the mystery of what your are measuring at the other end of the 6 terminals gets confused by values moving on meter. In this pic it is configured for 110. The top pair of diagrams show forward and reverse at 110 and the bottom you can see where the jumpers . If you look carefully at the connection diagrams you can see there are labels on the terminals (the actual terminal block is rotated 90 degrees clockwise from the diagram) There are a couple of wires leading away (to identify jumpers you need to compare fwd with rev - the other connections are actually made and broken inside of the rotary fwd/rev switch (which I have mapped). The labels on the wires, BTW, do not match their locations on the terminal board and would change going from one voltage to another.

From process of elimination, the 4 wires MUST attach to U1, Z1 V2 and any one of the other 3 (as they are jumpered together) to make 220V connections. Problem is: even the existing wire lablels don't match as no "Z" of any kind, so the tags are not from correct 220 connection from some previous times.
 

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Another option is to take it to a local motor shop and ask them to rewire it for you. They will have the test equipment and knowledge to do that in 5 minutes. Might cost you 50 bucks.
^^^ This! You get it done by someone who will take responsibility for getting it right.

More satisfying maybe to DIY (that’s where I start…) but if there’s enough doubt about whether it’s right it’s cheaper to buy some knowledge.

D :cool:
 
Do you have any contactors or motor starters in the circuit? if so, it will take just a little more work than the easy job of rewiring the motor.
 
Another option is to take it to a local motor shop and ask them to rewire it for you. They will have the test equipment and knowledge to do that in 5 minutes. Might cost you 50 bucks.
That was one of the first things I did. They took a look at these two pictures and threw their hands up. They would have to open the motor to figure out where the wires go, but I should be able to do that by metering the existing terminals (which is what I think I will do). From what I can figure the rotary switch should do same things in 110 or 220 and the jumpers should change the field windings between series and parallel. It looks as if the one wire

Bell machine - no idea, but tried to be helpful. Can't reach Machine Tool Warehouse by phone.

No contactors or starters on the spindle drive circuit. No need to rewire anything, I should be able to meter it out from the terminal block.
 
Doesn't sound like you are gunna get any decent help around there. So I sent you a PM and if you are interested, I'll see if I can help you out. But you will need the patience of a saint to tolerate an old man who works at the speed of smell, asks copious seemingly stupid questions, makes you do meticulous methodical work, and is painfully blunt.
 
Looks like some good info in this link, I gleaned it looks all relevant to your data plate.
I searched for yl90-l4

 
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