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Tool Tubing Bender

Tool

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
I need to bend 1/2" OD copper pipe. There are a few choices out there.
From Amazon only 1/2": https://www.amazon.ca/Flexzion-Thickness-Refrigeration-Aluminum-Securely/dp/B017D2YXEQ
Also from Amazon but 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2": https://www.amazon.ca/Manual-Aluminum-Bender-Tubing-Refrigeration/dp/B0C3H17QDN
Vevor has something like the 3 size from Amazon: https://www.vevor.ca/pipe-threading...nditioning-refrigerator-repair-p_010428267596
And Princess Auto has the lowest price one for more than 3 tubes: https://www.princessauto.com/en/5-in-1-tube-bender/product/PA0008592263
Unfortunately the one that @DavidR8 has is good to only 3/8" and I need 1/2"
Anyone have experience with any of these larger ones?
 
Not a fan of the multi benders myself, I have had a couple. I like ones that are separate with their own mandrel. The problem with multi benders is the radius is often not correct for all the tube sizes, as in the radius is based more on the size of the tool for packaging then the appropriate radius for all the tubes. Assuming you only need it for a couple bends. I would definitely go have a look at the bender before purchase. So the pa one, you can go look at the fit Of the tubing in the mandrel.
 
I need to bend 1/2" OD copper pipe. There are a few choices out there.
From Amazon only 1/2": https://www.amazon.ca/Flexzion-Thickness-Refrigeration-Aluminum-Securely/dp/B017D2YXEQ
Also from Amazon but 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2": https://www.amazon.ca/Manual-Aluminum-Bender-Tubing-Refrigeration/dp/B0C3H17QDN
Vevor has something like the 3 size from Amazon: https://www.vevor.ca/pipe-threading...nditioning-refrigerator-repair-p_010428267596
And Princess Auto has the lowest price one for more than 3 tubes: https://www.princessauto.com/en/5-in-1-tube-bender/product/PA0008592263
Unfortunately the one that @DavidR8 has is good to only 3/8" and I need 1/2"
Anyone have experience with any of these larger ones?
There are various printable ones on Thingaverse.
 
If this is for the compressor air cooler install, I'm doing the same with the same parts and I think I'll try going with flexible hoses instead of copper. From what I've read JIC fittings are the same as AN fittings but more of an industrial grade and much less expensive to buy. I believe PA can make hoses with these type of fittings to what ever length is needed. I like the idea of the hose isolating the cooler from the vibration of the compressor head.
I'll find out next week when my stuff comes in if the hoses will work.
 
If this is for the compressor air cooler install, I'm doing the same with the same parts and I think I'll try going with flexible hoses instead of copper. From what I've read JIC fittings are the same as AN fittings but more of an industrial grade and much less expensive to buy. I believe PA can make hoses with these type of fittings to what ever length is needed. I like the idea of the hose isolating the cooler from the vibration of the compressor head.
I'll find out next week when my stuff comes in if the hoses will work.
I just happen to have a coil of 1/2" copper and from what I've seen on youtube with respect to even burying copper that flared fittings are very robust. The system @DavidR8 put together works well and doesn't appear to have vibration issues.

It's solid 1/2" from my compressor pump to the tank with extra bends to probably deal with expansion.

1716008159007.webp
 
I have a Ridgid brand for 5/16". Its decently made & works well. Home Depot sells the product name in specific sizes but I think I got mine off Amazon at the time for lower cost. For copper I would look at what the plumbing/HVAC guys are using (lots of info on YouTube). Some of the lever arms look quite long but I suspect there is a reason for that, it can be tough material. Some off the smaller hand benders may appear to accommodate same diameter pipe but could be more intended for softer alloys like instrument lines & such. Not all copper line is the same. Same goes for the die bend radii. When I was researching benders for what is going to be a shop made bender (low bend radius : tubing diameter for model engine headers) different factors come into play to mitigate buckling & kinking. Depending on your local resources & expected projects, you might be better off renting the tool for the day.

 
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/25508549008760698/ Princess Auto, acceptable but a bit clunky to use.

If you can swing enough cash for this one, you won’t be disappointed. I have made thousands of bends with Ridgid tube benders, they last forever and do a perfect bend every time.

 
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/25508549008760698/ Princess Auto, acceptable but a bit clunky to use.

If you can swing enough cash for this one, you won’t be disappointed. I have made thousands of bends with Ridgid tube benders, they last forever and do a perfect bend every time.

I'm borrowing one tomorrow. I'd like some experience with one before I dive in and buy something I use once every 10 years or more. I can't remember the last time I used my tube flairing stuff. Maybe on my '64 MGB in the late 70's?
 
This is why, back in June 2015, that I had to replace my 40 year old Sears Craftsman 2HP 220VAC Air Compressor.

1716141693601.webp


Hard to believe the one I have now is almost 9 years old. Yikes!
 
Borrowed a 1/2" tube bender from JoeMac.
TubeBender.jpg


Going to use @DavidR8's suggestion to use tie wraps with washers. I'll cut circular pads so they don't damage the grill. The entire air cooler will sit on a pad of foam too.

Question: To go through the water separator and then into the tank some of the tubing will have to travel up hill so to speak.

Is it best to work that so it happens after the water separator?

Or does it matter?
 
Borrowed a 1/2" tube bender from JoeMac.
View attachment 48034

Going to use @DavidR8's suggestion to use tie wraps with washers. I'll cut circular pads so they don't damage the grill. The entire air cooler will sit on a pad of foam too.

Question: To go through the water separator and then into the tank some of the tubing will have to travel up hill so to speak.

Is it best to work that so it happens after the water separator?

Or does it matter?
I’m not sure it really matters but if there’s any way to have the separator below the cooler outlet and then run uphill to the tank that would be ideal.
FWIW my separator is slightly uphill of the cooler outlet and I get lots of water in the separator.
 
So mounted on the screen side and back on the compressor. I used foam strips to hold the radiator away from the metal surface. Tie wraps ala @DavidR8's suggestion to hold it in place. I may still wire through some copper safety wires in case the plastic breaks.

Anyway, you can just see the foam strips which were also needed so that the air fitting was far enough away from the grill in order to be able to tighten a nut.

1716166775197.webp



Here's the Pulley/Fan side.
1716167280042.webp


And here's @DavidR8's idea. Tie wrap through a washer that has a foam pad glued to it to not hurt the fins on the radiator. A bit of paper gasket against the other washer on the other side and then slide a tie wrap onto that and pull tight. Trim.

1716167414785.webp


Now the plumbing.
 
I guess I am a bit late, but I have a ridgid 1/2' Tubing bender that I bought to do a job on a yacht years ago in Oak Bay. I don't think I have hardly used it since. It is still in it's original box. If anyone wants to make me a good offer I think it's time I parted with it.
 
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