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Threading - 29.5/30 vs 90

Susquatch

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Since the very beginning of my machining experience on a lathe, I have always done 29.5 degree threading. I thought everyone did it this way. But I recently learned from @gerritv that while this practice is mostly common in North America, the rest of the world normally cuts their threads using a 90 degree plunge cut. Apparently the rest of the world handles the increased chip load by reducing the depth of cut as the threading tool is advanced.

This global difference bothers me so much that I have created this new thread to discuss it with my fellow members.

The idea behind the 30 degree cut is to cut on just one face of the 60 degree tool and slide along the other. Cutting on only one face reduces the chip load on the tool by half. Sometimes this leaves a rough chattered surface on the sliding edge. Rarely, it can even leave a bit of a staircase effect. The idea behind the 29.5 degree cut is to cut the normal 30 degree plus a little 1/2 degree shave off of the other surface to clean it up and eliminate the possibility of any staircasing. I have no idea how the 1/2 degree was decided. I do know that it is not critical.

When plunge cutting at 90 degrees, this 1/2 degree difference is not needed because both edges cut all the time. As stated above, the increased cutting load from cutting on both edges is reduced by gradually reducing the depth of cut as the tool is advanced in order to maintain a constant chip/cutting load. I also think it's rather obvious to me that chip loading is not a concern for small fine threads.

At first, I accepted the global difference as just another example of common practice differences. Perhaps even like metric VS imperial.

But I slept on the matter last night and I came to realize that there is another potential difference that "might" be important. And it further occurred to me that there may be other factors at play that I have never considered or perhaps never even heard of.

Most of us don't have tool room grade or cnc lathes. Many of us have old lathes that are well worn. Some of us have low cost machines that were never intended for high precision use. One of the most common wear items is the leade screws. We learn early on to accommodate leade screw backlash by loading the leade screw in one direction only. Essentially, this keeps the tooling indexed against the pressure/loaded side of the leade screw which greatly reduces the effect of any backlash.

In a plunge cut, the vast majority of the load is radial and there is very little side loading of the leade screws. Most of the tool locating forces are generated by the tool profile - essentially the tool mostly follows the groove.

On the other hand cutting on the side of a tool creates higher side loads which should increase the load on the leade screws and thereby ensure that there is no backlash affecting the path of the tool.

Basically, I am suggesting that another reason for cutting a thread on just one face of the tool (the 30/29.5 practice) might be to improve the geometric precision of the thread by using the cutting forces to reduce the backlash effect. I realize that much of the backlash is taken up purely by the sideways movement of the tool. But I also think this isn't as reliable or as consistent as higher side loading might provide.

For me, perhaps the most compelling argument to the contrary is the Sandvik recommendations wherein they provide a chart of tool advancement settings for each thread settings for cutting at 90 degrees. This clearly supports the practice of plunge cut threading at 90 degrees. But perhaps their recommendations are for professional use with cnc machines or tool room lathes - not potentially well-worn sloppy hobbiest lathes.

I am hoping that some of the other members here have more experience and knowledge on the matter than I do and can help sift through the pros and cons of 30/29.5 degree threading VS 90 degree plunge cut threading. Is it really just a matter of choice or are there compelling reasons why we should prefer one method over the other?

What do you folks think?
 
I'm in the 29.5 degree camp, it's what i was taught and have used very effectively 35+ years of steel butchering. I'm going to try the 90 degree threading on the new lathe i have to see for myself what all the fuss is about.
 
For reference, here is a copy of the Sandvik infeed recommendations for imperial external threads cut at 90 degrees as provided by @gerritv in another thread. It shows the variation in cutting depth as the threading progresses.

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For reference, here is a copy of the Sandvik infeed recommendations for imperial external threads cut at 90 degrees as provided by @gerritv in another thread. It shows the variation in cutting depth as the threading progresses.

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Those infeed recommendations are accurate IF you use the corresponding topping threading insert which have the crest and root sections set on that insert. If you use a non-topping insert, or a HSS tool which you have ground sharp, the final depth recommended will not be deep enough. You will then have to either go deeper or go axially by a certain amount with the cutter to produce the correct pitch diameter.
 
Those infeed recommendations are accurate IF you use the corresponding topping threading insert which have the crest and root sections set on that insert. If you use a non-topping insert, or a HSS tool which you have ground sharp, the final depth recommended will not be deep enough. You will then have to either go deeper or go axially by a certain amount with the cutter to produce the correct pitch diameter.

This is an interesting observation @thestelster. In the other thread, I had speculated that these infeeds and perhaps even the whole 90 degree feed approach might be specific to the Sandvik inserts. You have answered half the question with your discovery. Those in feeds do indeed appear to be specific to the Sandvik threading inserts of that profile. But I doubt this means that the 90 degree method only applies to Sandvik. In fact, @gerritv linked a video demonstrating the 90 degree method using a HSS threading tool by Gotteswinter. I've repeated Gerrit's link here for convenience. Hope you catch the irony - it may be the last YouTube video you will ever see me post...... But then again, it's only a repost! LOL!

The start of the video shows him making a, custom change gear. I confess that this was actually worth the painful watch.... The actual threading starts at 31:25.

 
Those infeed recommendations are accurate IF you use the corresponding topping threading insert which have the crest and root sections set on that insert. If you use a non-topping insert, or a HSS tool which you have ground sharp, the final depth recommended will not be deep enough. You will then have to either go deeper or go axially by a certain amount with the cutter to produce the correct pitch diameter.
For properly shaped thread profiles, you are advised to have a separate insert for each thread profile and pitch. I cannot afford all those inserts, so I use a non-topping insert, which can do many pitches, and set my compound to feed axially, and will do the infeeds with the cross-slide to the Sandvik recommended total infeed, test for fit, or measure pitch diameter. And if I need to reduce pitch diameter, I feed using the compound until the corresponding component threads nicely, or have reached the proper pitch diameter.

Also, by having the compound set axially; once I have reached the designated in-feed, according to the Sandvik tables, I will use the compound to take a thou or two off the back side of the thread to clean it up, and then move in towards the chuck, 1 thou per pass.
 
For reference, here is a copy of the Sandvik infeed recommendations for imperial external threads cut at 90 degrees as provided by @gerritv in another thread. It shows the variation in cutting depth as the threading progresses.
One look at that table tells me that those depth of cut recommendtions are NOT for my 'toy' 7x14 lathe!

For mini lathe users, there's another 'angle' :) to this topic: Which is going to produce a smoother cut with less chatter and inaccuracy - a 29.5 cut using the compound, or a plunge cut with the compound removed from the lathe and replaced by a solid block (a.k.a. plinth) of metal?
 
For properly shaped thread profiles, you are advised to have a separate insert for each thread profile and pitch. I cannot afford all those inserts

For those few times I considered carbide inserts for threading, I've always seen them advertised and specified for a range of TPI. Even my loveable ARWarner HSS Inserts have a range. But I always thought it was for the back angle more than for the root.

Like you, there is no way I'm going to buy a separate insert for every thread pitch out there.
 
Good topic!

I've always been skeptical that setting the compound to 29.5/30 accomplishes anything when you still set the tool to 90 with the tool post. I abandoned 29.5/30 and just left my compound set to 90. So how does this 29.5/30 thing work?
 
So here is an example of Sandvik Top-Lok inserts. Using the TLTC 3R Topping insert, to cut a 12tpi thread. The nose radius is, which will shape the root of the thread, is 0.010". We would need to in-feed 0.054" into our material to make our 12tpi thread. But if we use the non-topping insert TLT 3R to cut the same 12tpi thread, the nose radius of that insert is .005-.008". (Between .002-.005" less). Therefore, if we feed into our material 0.054", the pitch diameter is off, (too large). We would need to widen the root of our new thread between .002-.005", by moving either axially, or by going deeper than the 0.054" that was recommended by Sandvik to get the correct pitch diameter.
 

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Good topic!

I've always. been skeptical that setting the compound to 29.5/30 accomplishes anything when you still set the tool to 90 with the tool post. I abandoned 29.5/30 and just left my compound set to 90. So how does this 29.5/30 thing work?
Well........ I guess I am one of those calves the was born against the electric fence and therefore never knew it was wrong.....
I have always set my compound to 29.5, touched off with the crosslide and zeroed that dial. My infeeds are with the compound, but when I reach the end of the thread I quickly retract the compound while releasing the halfnuts. Wind the carriage back to the starting point, wind the cross slide back to zero, and add more cut with the compound. I'm not good with the math to figure out how much infeed is required at that angle to reach the required depth, so I have always just gone until the thread fit..... So far I have been happy with the results.
For everything we do, someone will come along with a bigger better idea, but so long as what you are doing works well and doesn't cause great frustration, then that's the method for you, or me..... If you can believe it, I have heard that some people actually try and use their left hand when they write..... Sheesh, doesn't anyone care enough to correct them?......
......... Rapidly digging fall out bunker......
 
Well........ I guess I am one of those calves the was born against the electric fence and therefore never knew it was wrong.....
I have always set my compound to 29.5, touched off with the crosslide and zeroed that dial. My infeeds are with the compound, but when I reach the end of the thread I quickly retract the compound while releasing the halfnuts. Wind the carriage back to the starting point, wind the cross slide back to zero, and add more cut with the compound. I'm not good with the math to figure out how much infeed is required at that angle to reach the required depth, so I have always just gone until the thread fit..... So far I have been happy with the results.
For everything we do, someone will come along with a bigger better idea, but so long as what you are doing works well and doesn't cause great frustration, then that's the method for you, or me..... If you can believe it, I have heard that some people actually try and use their left hand when they write..... Sheesh, doesn't anyone care enough to correct them?......
......... Rapidly digging fall out bunker......
Don, you are right on the money. Many different methods to get the same results. Use the method which is most comfortable to you that nets the required results.
 
One look at that table tells me that those depth of cut recommendtions are NOT for my 'toy' 7x14 lathe!

For mini lathe users, there's another 'angle' :) to this topic: Which is going to produce a smoother cut with less chatter and inaccuracy - a 29.5 cut using the compound, or a plunge cut with the compound removed from the lathe and replaced by a solid block (a.k.a. plinth) of metal?

Hmmm..... I don't think that is really a fair question. Better to ask about 90 vs 30 on your lathe with no plinth.

Now if what you are saying is that a 30 cut does not permit a plinth, and the 90 approach does allow you to go to a plinth to achieve better rigidity, it's a fair comment. But it's not really comparing 90 to 30. It's more like comparing plinth to no plinth.
 
Good topic!

I've always been skeptical that setting the compound to 29.5/30 accomplishes anything when you still set the tool to 90 with the tool post. I abandoned 29.5/30 and just left my compound set to 90. So how does this 29.5/30 thing work?

Too funny! Leave it to you to negate the question!

If I were you I'd stick with what works for you. No substitute for doing what you are comfortable with!

Maybe later I'll draw something up for you to demonstrate how the 30 degree cut works. But it will have wait a while. Where is @PeterT when you need him?

In the meantime @140mower s description of the methods is pretty good. And if my memory is working you are already that lefty he was yacking about!
 
Back when I developed the Electronic Lead Screw this discussion came up a number of times. I wanted an ELS because I didn't want to wait to build the Gingery shaper and mill and rotary indexer just to be able to cut gears for my Gingery lathe. The ELS solved that problem.

Once I acquired my South Bend, which had gears, threading was less of an issue until I needed some metric ones. At that point I added a leadscrew drive and an ELS to it too. Now it doesn't bother powering the cross feed and is 1942 vintage so has lots of backlash everywhere, even with a new cross slide nut. Haven't installed the new cross slide screw yet.

Anyway, the ELS is set up to let a user choose the angle of entry regardless of whether it's powered on the cross slide or not. I set 29.5 because once you cut on both flanks you may no longer be running on the driving edge of the carriage leadscrew. The load of cutting, although small, still means one edge of the tool is cutting, it doesn't have to be flat so it can have some rake and therefore also cuts better. The ELS takes care of the angle by either instructing me to move the compound in a certain amount on each pass or if I don't have a compound it changes the X and Z positions so it follows the required angle. (Which can also be set).

If you have a ball screw with virtually zero backlash on carriage and cross slide then cutting straight in is viable. But there's extra load and if it's a long shaft, then flex. The tool bit for the 29.5 is still a 30 degree cut and still set with the threading gauge against the work. If you sketch it out you can see how the method shaves thread while still creating 30 degree thereads.
 
Back when I developed the Electronic Lead Screw this discussion came up a number of times. I wanted an ELS because I didn't want to wait to build the Gingery shaper and mill and rotary indexer just to be able to cut gears for my Gingery lathe. The ELS solved that problem.

Once I acquired my South Bend, which had gears, threading was less of an issue until I needed some metric ones. At that point I added a leadscrew drive and an ELS to it too. Now it doesn't bother powering the cross feed and is 1942 vintage so has lots of backlash everywhere, even with a new cross slide nut. Haven't installed the new cross slide screw yet.

Anyway, the ELS is set up to let a user choose the angle of entry regardless of whether it's powered on the cross slide or not. I set 29.5 because once you cut on both flanks you may no longer be running on the driving edge of the carriage leadscrew. The load of cutting, although small, still means one edge of the tool is cutting, it doesn't have to be flat so it can have some rake and therefore also cuts better. The ELS takes care of the angle by either instructing me to move the compound in a certain amount on each pass or if I don't have a compound it changes the X and Z positions so it follows the required angle. (Which can also be set).

If you have a ball screw with virtually zero backlash on carriage and cross slide then cutting straight in is viable. But there's extra load and if it's a long shaft, then flex. The tool bit for the 29.5 is still a 30 degree cut and still set with the threading gauge against the work. If you sketch it out you can see how the method shaves thread while still creating 30 degree thereads.

My take-away from your post is that you believe there is some merit to the advantages of the 30/29.5 cut to load the leade screw a bit...... Is that fair to say?

I hope so, because that is the thought that prompted me to start this thread in the first place. It would be good to think I'm doing more than just stirring the pot here.

It's also good to think our ancestors knew a thing or two that we may be overlooking in the name of progress.

Please note that I am NOT against 90 degree threading here. I am only seeking to understand the history and the pros and cons of the two methods because I don't like the idea of thinking that our predecessors were all clueless and led so many of us astray for nothing.
 
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Hmmm..... I don't think that is really a fair question. Better to ask about 90 vs 30 on your lathe with no plinth.
I know the answer to that one. :)
Now if what you are saying is that a 30 cut does not permit a plinth, and the 90 approach dies allow you to go to a plinth to achieve better rigidity, it's a fair comment. But it's not really comparing 90 to 30. It's more like comparing plinth to no plinth.
Not really - I guess I wasn't clear.
Two possibilities for me (I would use 30/29.5 if the compound was installed...):
Plinth (greater rigidity) +90 plunge cut (more cutting force and cut area and likelihood of chatter)
VS
Compound (less rigid) + 29.5/30 cut on one side of tool only (less force, less chatter likelihood)

Pick one if you have a flimsy lathe. :)

And, cutting away from the chuck/shoulder is MUCH better for a beginner like me....which I realized when the first threads I recently cut on a lathe in 30 years was a LH thread. So now I cut RH threads with the tool upside down.
YMMV, etc...
 
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