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Taper

patro

New Member
Hello
This is my first post.
I have a Harrison L6 with 2 3 jaws chuck. My test bar between center is set à 0 taper. I have a .0013 taper over an inch when I don't use the tail stock. It would be greater if I tested it on 4 inches. I've reground the jaws, but I still have the taper. My question is: is it possible that the headstock is not perpendicular to the cross-feed.
If someone knows about this problem, please write about the solution.
Warm regards to all the members who welcome me.
 
Regrinding the chuck jaws might correct eccentricity in the work, but not a taper when turning.

When aligning the lathe, the first test is to fit a fixed centre in the headstock and another in the tailstock. Shim the tailstock or adjust sideways (there should be a lateral adjustment) and shim vertically if there is vertical misalignment.

Second step is to use a test bar between centres and use a DTI to measure any offset over the full length of the test bar. Shim and adjust as needed.

It is extremely unlikely that the headstock has moved. Much more likely is either your measuring technique needs practice, or there is extreme wear in the tailstock assembly.

Don
 
When you say .0013 taper, that's what is measured after taking a cut? Or that you've indicated using some kind of test bar? Do it taking a cut as using a test bar introduces lots of sources of error around how its mounted.

If you are not getting a parallel turn without tailstock support, there are three possible causes (at least that I can think of)

1) bed wear - causes the tool height to vary meaning its a different distance to the centre of the work, ergo different diameters.
2) the headstock is misaligned. Unlikely on a quality lathe unless there has been an epic crash,
3) the lathe isn't level. That means its own weight twists the bed such that tool is not the same height over the length of the cut.

99% its some combo of 1 and 3, likely (hopefully) mostly 3. The solution for 1) is recondition the lathe. No small feat, but a lathe worthy of it. The solution for 3), imo likely the bulk of the problem, is to level the lathe and then tweak with test cuts. Levelling is just a convenient way to compare each end of the ways for twist. You need a ,0005"/foot level, but if you don't have one, used what you have then do test cuts and tweak.

Don't level over the tops of the inverted V's, use parallels (proven) on the horizontal surfaces and get it same at the HS and TS (do your best to use unworn areas of the ways).

Test cuts. Put something substantial in the chuck, say 1 - 1 1/2" inch bar and turn it, light, fine feed etc. Measure the ends, and then tweak on of the the tailstock end floor bolts to remove the taper. For example, if it gets bigger toward the HS, raise the far side tailstock end mount 1/4 turn and repeat (or lower the near side). This can be an a periodic thing - concrete moves over time, and if bed wear is a big factor you sometimes have to tweak this to minimize taper on different work piece lengths.

My question is: is it possible that the headstock is not perpendicular to the cross-feed.

The HS is supposed to perfectly aligned with the ways, and the cross slide is supposed to be 1/2 a thou off of perpendicular to the ways. This is so facing can't produce a convex surface, just noting it as it might mess someone up who starting trying to measure whether the HS is perpendicular to the cross slide.
 
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Thanks. My level is a Starret 98-4. The lathe is level on the inverted v ways, so I will redo it as you suggest. And test the HS as well.
 
Thank you all. I was finally able to find the culprit. That lathe may have been used for work away from the chuck. So, the part of the bed that can be removed to turn a larger piece is not worn. I remove it. Now I have a smaller taper over 10 inches of 2.5 thou. For three jaws, Chuck, it's not too bad. The jaws may need to be regrind. That is another story.
So again, thank you all.
 
Now I have a smaller taper over 10 inches of 2.5 thou. For three jaws, Chuck, it's not too bad. The jaws may need to be regrind. That is another story.

Just to save you a lot of work for nothing some day, regrinding the jaws will not fix that.

I won't get into it here, but suffice to say that it doesn't really matter how the Jaws hold a part - the part ALWAYS spins about the axis of rotation of the spindle. Therefore, the part will get cut concentric to that axis. A taper will still be concentric, but it will have varying diameter depending on the geometric relationship between the cutter and the axis of rotation.

It's much more likely that the ways are worn or bent or that the head is not aligned to the ways.

FWIW, removing a gap, often causes the bed to relax and bend. That may be your issue. But it's just one of many possibities.

The jaws may well need regrinding, but that isn't what caused your taper.
 
Thank you Susquatch.
This is very informative.
removing a gap often causes the bed to relax and bend
That I will need more information. I don't understand what it means ;)
 
removing a gap often causes the bed to relax and bend
That I will need more information. I don't understand what it means ;)

Your wink suggests a joke. But I'll assume you are sincere. On most lathes, the gap is tightened onto the main bed frame with several screws. Tightening these screws creates stress in the screws which must be reacted in the bed frame. You cannot have stress without strain. Everything moves. The question isn't if, it is only how much.

On my lathe, the gap is also under compression via a jack screw that pushes against the headstock to ensure a tight fit of the ways on the gap to the main ways on the bed. It will be a cold day in Hell the day I ever remove it.

Lots of guys do though. I think it's a matter of how much stress it takes to align the gap properly before and after removal and reinstall. If the gap on your lathe has minimum stress on it when installed, then it's not likely the cause. On my lathe, just relieving the jack screw pressure would cause my spindle to point downward. This is ok when you are working with large parts in the gap. Its not ok when working with long parts.
 
Sorry for the wink. You again teach me great information. I will reinstall the Gap, as you name it. There is no description of the part in the manual. On my lathe, the gap is attached to the bed with two bolts plus a long one that traverses the gap horizontally. I will check the type of torque required for each type.
Again, thank you so much
warm regards, I'll be back next week.
 
Just to save you a lot of work for nothing some day, regrinding the jaws will not fix that.

I won't get into it here, but suffice to say that it doesn't really matter how the Jaws hold a part - the part ALWAYS spins about the axis of rotation of the spindle. Therefore, the part will get cut concentric to that axis. A taper will still be concentric, but it will have varying diameter depending on the geometric relationship between the cutter and the axis of rotation.

It's much more likely that the ways are worn or bent or that the head is not aligned to the ways.

FWIW, removing a gap, often causes the bed to relax and bend. That may be your issue. But it's just one of many possibities.

The jaws may well need regrinding, but that isn't what caused your taper.
Yes that's true - the part always spins on the spindle axis, but if the chuck doesn't hold the work concentric to that axis, a taper of some sort is inevitable. That's exactly what happens when you purposefully cut a taper with an offset tailstock etc.

A part that has been gripped unevenly by the chuck is _my_ most common error. In my case operator error, but if a chuck that has some kind of balance / alignment issue, or hasn't been mounted accurately the problem will happen too. Assuming even tool pressure, these tapers should be consistent. And when this is the problem, a tail stock will reduce the taper by more than the 1:4 ratio for tool pressure deformation

Worn ways are probably worn unevenly, so the taper generated by that problem probably has waves or bulges in it.

A twisted bed is probably the worst thing to deal with.

It should be noted that a level bed doesn't cut intrinsically better than a bed on any other consistent plane, but level is usually easier to find than any other angle, and probably has other benefits to the stability of your machine
 
I will reinstall the Gap, as you name it.

Nobody says that reinstalling it will fix your taper. That's why mine has never been removed. Nonetheless, there is a good chance that it will. Follow your instruction manual carefully as that should give you the best chance of success. It just isn't guaranteed.

Btw, lots of members on here take their gaps out without giving it a second thought. In fact, I'd venture to say that I might be one of just a few exceptions. But I'm also a lot more fussy than most members are.

Please post the results after you reinstall it. I'm keenly interested. Learning is my one true hobby.
 
Yes that's true - the part always spins on the spindle axis, but if the chuck doesn't hold the work concentric to that axis, a taper of some sort is inevitable. That's exactly what happens when you purposefully cut a taper with an offset tailstock etc.

I think this might be the first time you and I disagree. Mind you, it might also be terminology or choice of words. Let me address your comments one at a time. Please forgive any repetition. My intent is to get us both on the same page speaking the same language. But more than that, your comments provide a great opportunity to explain things in a more holistic way for the benefit of anyone else reading this. Hopefully it will be helpful and not too wordy.

but if the chuck doesn't hold the work concentric to that axis, a taper of some sort is inevitable.

You will note that I originally said:

"the part ALWAYS spins about the axis of rotation of the spindle. Therefore, the part will get cut concentric to that axis. A taper will still be concentric, but it will have varying diameter depending on the geometric relationship between the cutter and the axis of rotation."

I added the bold this time. The important point I was trying to make here is that it doesnt really matter how the part is held as long as it is firmly held. At any one point along the axis, a lathe tool will cut a concentric circle about the axis of the spindle. Other points may not have the same diameter for all the reasons that you mention and more, but all of them will still be concentric. A taper is just a series of concentric circles each with a different diameter. (I'll come back to the subject of tapers and offset tailstocks a bit later.)

Perhaps you missed my comment about the diameters changing at different axial distances as outlined in the last half of the bolded quote above.

Fundamentally, my original point was that even a crappy chuck that has a deliberate offset will cut concentricly to the spindles axis. However, the diameters along its length might wander around because the cutting tool wanders around, not because the axis moves. Any lathe where the axis moves needs new spindle bearings or a trip to the junkyard.

Imagine a two inch bar that is deliberately clamped in a 4 jaw 1/2" off center. That's basically a gross example of a 3 jaw with poor jaws. When you first start cutting, only one side will cut. As the cuts progress, it will gradually make the far side cuts longer and longer until it eventually cuts all the way around. At that point, the bar will be a perfectly concentric bar that is 1.0 inch in diameter.

That's exactly what happens when you purposefully cut a taper with an offset tailstock etc.

Yup, agreed - but with some caveats. Usually, tapers cut using a tailstock offset, are cut between centers - ie with a center in the chuck, and a center in the tailstock and the part driven by a dog. In this case, the axis of rotation isn't the spindle, it's the axis between the two centers. An exception to that is for stock that is flexible enough to be held fixed in the Jaws but can still bend to reach the offset tailstock center. This latter case doesn't cut a perfect taper though. It will be more of an inverse parabolic taper with the fastest rate of change at the tailstock.

I'd bet really big bucks we don't really disagree. My real point was to explain to the OP that poor jaws (no matter how bad they are) are not the reason he is getting a taper.

A part that has been gripped unevenly by the chuck is _my_ most common error. In my case operator error, but if a chuck that has some kind of balance / alignment issue, or hasn't been mounted accurately the problem will happen too. Assuming even tool pressure, these tapers should be consistent. And when this is the problem, a tail stock will reduce the taper by more than the 1:4 ratio for tool pressure deformation

I don't understand why that would be. Balance issues are another whole kettle of fish and so is inconsistent chuck mounting. But a chuck that is poorly mounted or is misaligned will still cut a concentric bar unless the tool or the chuck actually moves during the machining.

Perhaps what you mean is that an existing concentric part that is misaligned or poorly mounted won't maintain its existing axis....... But a part that is misaligned when it is mounted will end up axially aligned after it is cut.

Worn ways are probably worn unevenly, so the taper generated by that problem probably has waves or bulges in it.

A twisted bed is probably the worst thing to deal with.

Yes. That's all about a tool moving around to different places because the rest of the machine (ways, bed, etc) is misaligned.

It should be noted that a level bed doesn't cut intrinsically better than a bed on any other consistent plane, but level is usually easier to find than any other angle, and probably has other benefits to the stability of your machine

I'm not sure what you mean by this. To the extent that a bed bends or twists the tool away from a line that is consistently parallel to the axis of rotation bad things happen. But in truth, as long as the ways remain parallel to the axis of rotation of the spindle, a lathe can do a perfectly good job inside a shop on a ship while it wanders around in the waves.

Perhaps I am misunderstanding your point here.

All in all though, I am actually quite happy to use your comments to provide an opportunity to expand on the subject of spindle axial concentricity because it's a topic quite often not well understood by many hobby machinists (and prolly a few pros too). In essence, I'm practicing with your help.

A spindle's fundamental operating principle is the fact that anything firmly attached to the spindle via a chuck or a plate or whatever will spin about the spindle's axis of rotation. Perfect cylinders are cut when the cutter moves parallel to that axis. Shapes and contours are a result of the tool being moved away from that parallel axis. At its most basic level, a lathe is a spindle rotating on its axis in space and a bunch of other hardware attached to it that are all designed to move the cutter perfectly parallel to that axis or in some other controlled relationship to create concentric tapers, contours and other shapes.

Just to take this last point one giant step further, aligning a lathe is really all about aligning all the other parts of the lathe with the lathes spindle so that the cutting tool is kept parallel to the axis of rotation instead of following bent, twisted, or worn ways. That's my inside out way of looking at it.

Hope that all helps everyone reading this. If not, please feel free to disagree.
 
Yes that's true - the part always spins on the spindle axis, but if the chuck doesn't hold the work concentric to that axis, a taper of some sort is inevitable. That's exactly what happens when you purposefully cut a taper with an offset tailstock etc.

Maybe I'm not correctly understanding you. It doesn't matter how the work is held in the chuck, if the ways are perfectly aligned with the spindle axis (or if between centres the ways are aligned with the line formed between the two centres), it doesn't matter the alignment of the work, you won't cut a taper

Worn ways are probably worn unevenly, so the taper generated by that problem probably has waves or bulges in it.

Yes, the fortunate thing is rarely do we need to make very accurate long cuts. You can over short distances straighten a taper caused by wear by tweaking the tailstock levelling bolts. Long cuts are problematic, but even the finest fit threads for example have a several thou tolerance so you can often get by.

A twisted bed is probably the worst thing to deal with.

The twist in the bed is not an inherent flaw of the bed, It's the casting twisting under its own weight when set down. (Not meaning to suggest you didn't know that, just emphasizing it). It's not difficult to deal with the right level (i.e. master precision level), a machinists level isn't quite good enough. Without one though, you can still set it up perfectly by test cuts (no tailstock) and tweaking the right end mounting bolts. Definitely more of a pita, and you lose the main thing the level does for you which is separate twist from other things like wear or tailstock alignment. I know even used the 199 is expensive, but you can buy the correct sensitivity of vial for modest dollars and could make one via scraping ..... would be a good HS project.

It should be noted that a level bed doesn't cut intrinsically better than a bed on any other consistent plane, but level is usually easier to find than any other angle, and probably has other benefits to the stability of your machine

Agreed, but level to earth is just a fantastically reliable reference. With a precision level (.0005" /12"), I don't know how you'd do so to the same accuracy at any other angle. As an aside, it's so convenient a reference, it gets used for lots of other recondition tasks (making sure ways are parallel for example) and even for some set ups. I've few machines with a three point mounting system, entirely eliminates the issue of twist and levelling ..... nice, but when worn they need reconditioning; you can't tweak it to adjust for wear
 
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level to earth is just a fantastically reliable reference

What a wonderful way to look at it.

I've always focussed on the fact that we have great tools that can find earth level with very high precision. But it's that reliable earth level itself that makes the tool possible. Thank you for that.

Btw, I recently noticed that Accusize sells a series of precision levels with a claimed precision of 2 tenths over 10 inches. No idea how well they achieve that.
 
the cross slide is supposed to be 1/2 a thou off of perpendicular to the ways

I almost missed this Mike. I'd like to nail your number down in my mind a bit better. For that I need to know half thou over what distance? I'd also like to know how you came to land on that particular number. And do you have a tolerance?

Lots of folks throw all kinds of numbers around. It seems to me that somebody somewhere must have done the necessary testing to see what actually works best in the real world. I've always thought it would be a lathe specific thing, but I'm open to a general guideline too.
 
I don't have a tolerance, was taught 1/2 thou per foot. Probably buried in Connolly somewhere, not sure, but its common knowledge among those who recondition machines (i.e. you hear discussed many times). That would be measured with a tenths indicator so you could make it very tight, but I don;t think it much matters so long as its close. The reason for it is there is no 0.00000000000000 so you'd best be on the side of it, by enough that is measurable, such that facing will product a concave surface. Here's me measuring on my DSG in the process of scraping the cross slide, one way to measure it. the horizontals are done and the pin is moved end to end and swept to gauge process of the angled part of the dovetail..... keep in mind you're moving things in tenths as you go through the iterations so its not that hard to hit small tolerances - the ultimate "creep up on it" way to machine :)


DSC_8456-1300x870.JPG
 
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Btw, I recently noticed that Accusize sells a series of precision levels with a claimed precision of 2 tenths over 10 inches. No idea how well they achieve that.

yeah, I'm not as trusting of them as you. I did a comparison once of a Russian level, B&S, Mitutoyo and Starrett and concluded that Starrett was the best. My rationale is not just what the graduations marks are, but how far apart they are. Some levels had as low a graduate (.0005/12", maybe even lower, can't 100% remember) than the Starrett, but when the lines are 2-3x as close as with the Starrett, imo you'd be better with the Starrett as its easier to interpolate between its wider spaced lines.
 
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I don't have a tolerance, was taught 1/2 thou per foot. Probably buried in Connolly somewhere, not sure, but its common knowledge among those who recondition machines (i.e. over time you hear discussed many times). That would be measured with a tenths indicator so you could make it very tight, but I don;t think it much matters so long as its close. The reason for it is there is no 0.00000000000000 so you'd best be on the side of it, by enough that is measurable, such that facing will product a concave surface.

Perfect. Thanks Mike.

As an aside, I really enjoy your use of the English language to make clear consise statements about very complicated things using relatively few words. It certainly works for me. My answer to that same question would have been 4 pages long and added nothing else. So, I'm jealous of your talent.

Edit - and then I see you added to it and essentially doubled it plus added a photo...... LMAO!

I think you might actually have one of my many faults too. I write something and then realize that not all readers are the same and Somebody who thinks differently might miss my meaning. Then the words get added. Then I worry I might have insulted the original reader. Then I realize I need to fix more. Next thing you know, I have 4 pages of mostly unnecessary verbia.
 
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Thanks for the compliment! I often get tripped up between brain and fingers so need lots of care when editing..... and it's challenging to see your own errors.

I just read Stephen King's "On Writing" , which I thought was quite good, so am on a mission to reduce the word count and eliminate adverbs :)
 
Wow, there are too many things to reply directly to

I don't think we are doing anything more than loudly agreeing, but maybe I understand Patro's problem differently. I think he said that when cutting work between his chuck and the tail stock, he did not get a taper, but then when he cut stock - even short stock - he does. well, one sure way for that to happen is for the stock to be held by the chuck in a way that isn't concentric to the axis of rotation. And for short stock (1 inch) the other causes seem less significant.

There are lots more things to say of course
 
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