Steven’s Mill stand: Joint location and painting

[StevSmar]

I measured the stand I’m making and it theoretically can make it into the basement but it’s very tight and I think there will be collateral damage. So I think discretion is the better part of valour and I should put some joints in.

I think I know where I should put the joints, but I’d like the opinions of others. Plus I also wanted opinions on how successful I might be applying rattle can paint on the stand in the heated garage.

My thought is Option 1 is the best location for the joints:

For painting, if it’s still cold when I get to that stage I’m going to build a clear plastic enclosure put some heat in there and paint the stand inside that. I’ll heat the overall garage for maybe 3 hours before too.
(However, once I put joints in, then it will be easy for me to disassemble the stand in spring and bring it up for painting, so perhaps that’s what I’ll do?)

Here’s the progress from the last weekend:

Great fun!!!!

 

[boilerhouse]

You may need to define what you envision the joint to entail. Cut the 2 x 2's and have it bolted together with gussets? It will definitely weaken the structure. I would probably lean towards trying to keep it intact and moved downstairs as is, or re-fabricate it so it is slightly smaller in one dimension, but if it has to come apart, I would say place the joints in the green locations, and keep the uprights as strong as possible.

 

[StevSmar]

You may need to define what you envision the joint to entail.

That’s a fair comment. At the moment I’m going to sleeve the 2x2x1/4” with 1-1/2x1-1/2x3/16”. Likely one end of the sleeve welded to the 2x2 with plug welds, and the other end bolted to the sleeve.

I’m not adverse to trying to remove all the tubing’s weld seam and make the sleeve full length (But in this case I’d have to bolt the sleeve onto both pieces (because of the size restrictions)) (I appear to have easily achieved my objective of making the stand heavy…, a full length sleeve would just make me achieve my objective even better…)

I would say place the joints in the green locations, and keep the uprights as strong as possible.

That was my thought too initially, then I got thinking about what effect the wooden sides and back would have. Which got me thinking having the cross members with no joints and the side members with a joint would be the best?
I could also weld another cross brace at the joint and eliminate the likelyhood of the 2x2 flexing (In one direction, maybe even two if I lose some drawer space (I don’t want to do that…)

 

[whydontu]

My thought would be joints on the verticals. stub top and bottom, use full-height 2x2x1/4 sleeves and bolt top and bottom.