Elektrishun
Member
Recently installed a new belt on the horizontal drive to the cone pulley on the head stock. After everything was set-up I ran the lathe and noticed some vibration. A little process of elimination and I found that the horizontal drive bushings were worn. You could see evidence of this when the lathe was running because the pulley driven by the motor wasn't running true and the new belt was moving side to side.
I wasn't sure how to remove the bushings so I did a quick Google search and found this video:
I built a bushing puller tool of my own based on the tool shown in the video. The tool I made is not nearly as pretty but it worked really slick:
No welding or machining involved. The set-up is as as follows:
(1) Cut a piece of 1/2" threaded rod 9 5/8" long.
(2) Thread 2 nuts tightly together at one end. I used blue thread locker to make sure they wouldn't move.
(3) Thread 2 nuts tightly together approx. 4" from the first 2 (measuring inside edge to inside edge). Again, I used thread locker.
(4) Cut a 12 mm washer leaving over half. Of all the washers I had in my collection I found the metric 12mm was a good fit.
(5) The part I chose to use to press against the bushing opening was a 1 3/4" to 1" reducer threaded cast fitting (about $4.00 at Princess Auto). The large side seats really nice against the drive and is deep and wide enough to accept the bushing as it fully pulls out. The smaller side has two washers (for strength) JB Welded to the opening. I filed the edge of the cast fitting to rough it up and even up the surface. Then I used 120 grit sandpaper to rough sand both sides of the first washer and one side of the second washer. Wiped all the sanded surfaces with Isopropyl alcohol, mixed up the JB Weld, and glued the two washers to the fitting.
(6) 2 extra nuts are needed to complete the tool. One to capture the half washer so that it doesn't flop over. The second to turn against the fitting which drives the washer against the inside edge of the bushing.
To use the tool:
(1) Place the half washer into the oil groove between the bushings.
(2) Carefully slide the threaded rod into the opening so that double nuts on the threaded rod will be on the side of the bushing that is being forced out.
(3) You can feel when the second set of double nuts stops at the half washer.
(4) From the opposite end thread one of the single nuts all the way in until it stops against the half washer. You can't thread the single nut all the way by hand. In the image you can see a small screwdriver with a blue handle. I use that to jam the nut from spinning as I turn the threaded rod which moves the half washer, backed by the double nuts, up to the single nut. Once you can't turn the rod you will have the half washer trapped between the 3 nuts resting against the edge of the bushing.
(5) Place the cast fitting over the opening.
(6) Thread the last nut up to the washers on the cast fitting.
(7) Using two 3/4" wrenches, hold the double nuts with one as you turn the single nut with the other. I used a ratchet wrench to speed it up.
Removed both bushings on one side within seconds with minimum effort.
I wasn't sure how to remove the bushings so I did a quick Google search and found this video:
I built a bushing puller tool of my own based on the tool shown in the video. The tool I made is not nearly as pretty but it worked really slick:
No welding or machining involved. The set-up is as as follows:
(1) Cut a piece of 1/2" threaded rod 9 5/8" long.
(2) Thread 2 nuts tightly together at one end. I used blue thread locker to make sure they wouldn't move.
(3) Thread 2 nuts tightly together approx. 4" from the first 2 (measuring inside edge to inside edge). Again, I used thread locker.
(4) Cut a 12 mm washer leaving over half. Of all the washers I had in my collection I found the metric 12mm was a good fit.
(5) The part I chose to use to press against the bushing opening was a 1 3/4" to 1" reducer threaded cast fitting (about $4.00 at Princess Auto). The large side seats really nice against the drive and is deep and wide enough to accept the bushing as it fully pulls out. The smaller side has two washers (for strength) JB Welded to the opening. I filed the edge of the cast fitting to rough it up and even up the surface. Then I used 120 grit sandpaper to rough sand both sides of the first washer and one side of the second washer. Wiped all the sanded surfaces with Isopropyl alcohol, mixed up the JB Weld, and glued the two washers to the fitting.
(6) 2 extra nuts are needed to complete the tool. One to capture the half washer so that it doesn't flop over. The second to turn against the fitting which drives the washer against the inside edge of the bushing.
To use the tool:
(1) Place the half washer into the oil groove between the bushings.
(2) Carefully slide the threaded rod into the opening so that double nuts on the threaded rod will be on the side of the bushing that is being forced out.
(3) You can feel when the second set of double nuts stops at the half washer.
(4) From the opposite end thread one of the single nuts all the way in until it stops against the half washer. You can't thread the single nut all the way by hand. In the image you can see a small screwdriver with a blue handle. I use that to jam the nut from spinning as I turn the threaded rod which moves the half washer, backed by the double nuts, up to the single nut. Once you can't turn the rod you will have the half washer trapped between the 3 nuts resting against the edge of the bushing.
(5) Place the cast fitting over the opening.
(6) Thread the last nut up to the washers on the cast fitting.
(7) Using two 3/4" wrenches, hold the double nuts with one as you turn the single nut with the other. I used a ratchet wrench to speed it up.
Removed both bushings on one side within seconds with minimum effort.
