• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Tool Soldering iron recommendation

Tool
DavidR8

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Every time I need to solder some wiring related thing I think “You need to replace the iron you bought at Radio Shack back in the 1980’s”
So this is me asking for soldering iron recommendations. Not looking to make circuit boards or anything like that, more along the lines of connecting wires to switches and similar tasks.
 
David_R8 said:
Every time I need to solder some wiring related thing I think “You need to replace the iron you bought at Radio Shack back in the 1980’s”
So this is me asking for soldering iron recommendations. Not looking to make circuit boards or anything like that, more along the lines of connecting wires to switches and similar tasks.
Click to expand...
I've never used one of these but quite a few of the makers on Youtube recommend the TS100.
 
If I understand your application, I've done a ton of soldering with this iron - say 12-16 AWG wire range, plug connectors, cells, bus bars... that kind of stuff. It uses 0.25" a coated copper tips so has some heat holding capacity. I could dig up some picture examples if it helps.

For smaller stuff its hard to beat the temperature controlled stations. Weller, Hakko... names like that. I'm dating myself so some models may be better than others. Pay attention to tips & availability because many are brand/model specific.
1678666803868.png
 
PeterT said:
If I understand your application, I've done a ton of soldering with this iron - say 12-16 AWG wire range, plug connectors, cells, bus bars... that kind of stuff. It uses 0.25" a coated copper tips so has some heat holding capacity. I could dig up some picture examples if it helps.

For smaller stuff its hard to beat the temperature controlled stations. Weller, Hakko... names like that. I'm dating myself so some models may be better than others. Pay attention to tips & availability because many are brand/model specific.
View attachment 32086
Click to expand...
That’s pretty much what I have in my head. I’ll do some googling.
 
I have an analog weller soldering station. Once I started getting into electronics more I discovered my crappy canadian tire one wasn't going to cut it anymore. It's much better than me, but was worth every penny. Heats up quick, and didn't really cost that much, compared to the value it provides. I'd probably spring for the digital version if I were to replace it now. Or maybe look as some of the other adjustable import ones that seem so plentiful and popular now.

Adam Savage has me convinced I need a battery powered portable station now too, so I'll chip away at build one of those over the next couple weeks...... Will be nice for vehicle repairs and stuff out in the garage.
 
This is the one I have, similar to the one PeterT posted. The variable temperature setpoint is great for the obvious reasons, but I also use the iron to insert heat-set inserts in 3D printed parts. 400*C is way too hot for that so being able to set the iron at around 250*C is very handy.

www.solarbotics.com

Weller 70W Digital Soldering Station

WE1010NA is a versatile product that's suitable for a range of users, from soldering professionals to beginners and everyone in between. It comes with a one-channel soldering station, a WEP 70 electric soldering iron and a PH 70 safety rest.
www.solarbotics.com www.solarbotics.com
 
I’m confused on this myself, I thought the pencil style was good for electronics (light use)

But the pistol style was heavier duty, I thought, but could still do the lighter stuff

But then along the way I picked up a heavy duty blue point soldering iron that seems geared to bigger connections

I didn’t have much luck with the pencil style irons
 
I solder a lot (by a lot I go thru anywhere between 1 to 4lbs per year of solder) I am going to suggest a soldering digitally set/regulated station (has a temp sensor in iron to provide feedback and keep your temps the same) that has a 70-80watt pencil, will do everything you want.

I am also going to recommend your solder. KOKI leadfree. Basically it behaves like leaded without the lead.

Catch for lead free is temperature control. Leaded the ideal temp was 680-700 but anything from 680 to 850 was no problem.

Lead free requires high temps but not to high 720-735, much higher with some of the free you have tip detinning and erosion (very bad).

A Weller station WE1010NA available on Amazon is a good choice.
 
Chicken lights said:
I’m confused on this myself, I thought the pencil style was good for electronics (light use)

But the pistol style was heavier duty, I thought, but could still do the lighter stuff

But then along the way I picked up a heavy duty blue point soldering iron that seems geared to bigger connections

I didn’t have much luck with the pencil style irons
Click to expand...
I use 80watts for everything its about how the iron heats the tip and keeps it where you want.
 
phaxtris said:
i also have one of these for non electronic type work, aka automotive

Click to expand...
I have one, but since I switched it collects dust. Old school was power to get heat, new school is ensuring power is supplied when heat is needed and this accomplished by sensing the temp of the tip, as it drops more power is applied to bring it to spec, when a heat sink is removed the tip heat up and the power is withdrawn.
 
Degen said:
I have one, but since I switched it collects dust. Old school was power to get heat, new school is ensuring power is supplied when heat is needed and this accomplished by sensing the temp of the tip, as it drops more power is applied to bring it to spec, when a heat sink is removed the tip heat up and the power is withdrawn.
Click to expand...

you might be missing the point and reason for the trigger, you don't want a gun to be hot all the time soldering wires under a dash or in an engine bay, or laying beside you on your back

soldering guns are meant for intermittent soldering, a wire here, a wire there, high wattage for fast heat up and larger gauge wires

a soldering gun and a soldering iron serve two similar but different purposes
 
I use an pencil now even in those applications, second nature after so many hours using one and lead free doesn't like the heat of the guns no control, it eats your tips.

Some stations have shut down and start up switches in the dock (mine doesn't but it was an option) so the concern you have is mitigated.
 
@David_R8

I use a Weller gun for heavy duty soldering (wire to wire, cable, parts, etc). These are designed to be turned on by pulling a trigger as long as needed for each job. One of these big guns would destroy an electronic circuit.

Weller D550 Dual Heat Professional Soldering Gun https://a.co/d/7ML0Yq7

I use a plug in Weller soldering pencil for electronics. These are left on for the duration of the job and are set to a target temperature. Mine is older but similar to this one.

Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA https://a.co/d/hFtRJJW

I also have a small portable battery operated pencil unit commonly known as a ts100. But that has become a generic name that could be anything. They are very popular because they don't have a cord. I only use it when I have to work on something I can't bring to my bench. I don't find it has the control or the quality feel that my Weller station has.

65W TS100 Electric Soldering Iron Kit

I recommend the Weller station.
 
Butane - my all-time favorite, use it 50% of the time, also is perfect for heat shrink tubing. Just bought my second one, first one was 1990. Expensive, but worth it.


Bench station - mid-range,,use it for most of my detail electronics stuff and PC board work.


And then I still use my ancient Weller 100/140 gun for gross stuff. Can‘t say if a new one is as robust as the old ones, but to give you an idea how long I’ve owned one, there is no French on the product label…

BigBang

www.weller-tools.com www.weller-tools.com
 
phaxtris said:
i also have one of these for non electronic type work, aka automotive

Click to expand...
Do _NOT_ use a soldering gun on semiconductor electronics or anything connected to semiconductor electronics. Think of it as a transformer. Primary side on the AC line, secondary is a teensy winding where the soldering gun tip is part of that circuit. With lots of current since it's a step down transformer.

Now every time you release the trigger there's a back EMF pulse that can be conducted into the circuit. Very high voltages. Can damage semiconductors.

I have one and I use it where I need it for switches etc. that aren't connected to anything. Otherwise go for one of the temperature controlled irons with interchangeable tips from tiny to wide.

Edit: Hadn't realized just how much the one I bought locally from Queale here in Victoria has gone up in price. https://www.canadarobotix.com/products/2572
I really like this but I suspect it's outside the price range.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top