SM Series 2000 Taper Attachment part dimensions request

[Darren]

I'm working on a Standard Modern 11x30 Series 2000 lathe. It has a taper attachment but is missing a part. Its missing the follower block as seen in the pic. I'm quite certain that I can make it, but dimensions and more detailed pics would help out a lot. Its not clear what is inside the block as far as gibs, wear strips, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[YYCHM]

Nothing special about the shoe. It's just a block that closely fits the guide rail. Both @Brent H and I made one for our SM's. Mine (9" Utilathe) is 3.5" long, 2" wide, and 1.2" deep and is made of cast iron.

Thread 'Utilathe Taper Attachment - fits 9 inch and 10 inch'

Nov 9, 2020

These are the plans for the Utilathe taper attachment as fitted. They are close to the original as possible and should fit the 9 and 10 inch modle and possibly the 12 innch LD Utilathe. I am not certain on the 11 and 13 inch as they changed the style completely. Some of the drawings I will update as the layout is not the greatest.

Here are some pictures of an original assembly:

The plans are attached. I will see if I can clean things up and also attach the autoCad .DWG

• Brent H
• Replies: 10
• Forum: Project Plans

• 

 

[Darren]

ok, awesome. Thanks craig. I happen to have a block of cast iron that will work for that. Now to make the missing metric change gears...

 

[Brent H]

@Darren - the only things in the block that are not just basically a C on top of the rail is a relief in the middle for oil distribution. I tried to keep the slot at a close tolerance- maybe 1 thou so the taper is accurate. I can take a few pics for you tomorrow.

 

[Susquatch]

@Darren - your block looks like it has Inverted dovetail ways to keep it in the taper gauge bar. It probably also has a gib to adjust the play.

Assuming the above is true, the block needs to have the same dovetail angle as the gauge bar on one side and the appropriate angle to hold a flat gib against the other. I don't know if the angle is standard but a measurement of the guide bar would tell you that.

Fortunately, I don't think it needs to be a perfect fit because the gib adjusters can make up any difference through the gib adjustments. I might be wrong about that, but I'm thinking all the needed precision is in the guide bar, not the block.

The point being that it might not be a simple C Block, but one look at the guide bar will tell you what you have. Worth a quick look.

 

[Darren]

@Darren - the only things in the block that are not just basically a C on top of the rail is a relief in the middle for oil distribution. I tried to keep the slot at a close tolerance- maybe 1 thou so the taper is accurate. I can take a few pics for you tomorrow.

Thanks Brent, I was actually going to text you about this but I know you've been busier than a cat covered in shit.

On another note, the lathes both have the banjos for the metric transposing gears. Neat setup, but some of my gears are missing. They look like 24dp, 14.5pa . Does that sound correct? I'll hafta order some cutters.

 

[Brent H]

Hey Darren, yes the 24DP 14.5 sounds correct. If you can measure up the Banjos and some pics would be great!

I will scoot out and take some pics of the block

 

[Brent H]

The side cuts leaving 0.415” are a close approximation- like one side is 0.4146 and the other is 0.415 - this is because I made the fit as close as possible so the block has no wiggle to prevent any taper changes with a sloppier fit. Maybe not necessary but was fun.

 

[Darren]

Here's some pics

Lathe 2

 

[Darren]

I only have 3 change gears for metric threading - 50, 80, and 127 between both lathes. So i ordered the cutters i'll need to make the rest. At least I have a few to design off of.

 

[Brent H]

Hey Darren,

When I was working this out (prior to the Miss Metric) I worked out a few “plans” for the gears and the Banjo. You have a couple rare finds there! Awesomeness

 

[Darren]

One is an 11x20, pretty common, but the other is 11x30, with taper attachment, with metric threading. The ways on both machines are pristine. On one they thought it was broken due to an over extended tailstock quill where the thread became disengaged. The lady running the shop didn't know much else about them....So I have high hopes that nothing is really wrong with them. I got two steady rests, two 3 jaw Pratt Burnerd, and one new 4 jaw Pratt Burnerd. And a bunch of misc tooling.