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Tool Slitting Saw Holder

Tool
jcdammeyer

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
I recall we were discussing slitting saw arbors a while back. Now I've used mine a few times over the years. Since there isn't a key for it I made sure I tightened it really well. The hex head allen wrench was all of maybe 2" long. Suddenly snap. Manage to catch the blade. Only a few scratches on my knuckle. Could have been a lot worse if it happened while the holder was spinning the saw.

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I have exactly the same broken arbor. And the stupid part of it is that we’re all used to having dozens of collets and single-size cutter holders, but we all use the one-size-fits-all pieces of crap for slitting saws. My guess it would take maybe an hour or so to make a solid one-piece holder that wouldn’t break.
 
whydontu said:
I have exactly the same broken arbor. And the stupid part of it is that we’re all used to having dozens of collets and single-size cutter holders, but we all use the one-size-fits-all pieces of crap for slitting saws. My guess it would take maybe an hour or so to make a solid one-piece holder that wouldn’t break.
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Yeah. This is what I plan on making since I have only one size slitting saw and I have arbours with smaller diameters for gear cutters.
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I should have made one just for the practice, but the one I got from Ali is very nice. 99% chance the threads are metric, not that it matters. But now that I think of it, they could be reverse FWIW.
I've gone metric with the saws, much more selection at better prices vs IMP. Therefore the OD portion for the hole is nominal metric & same for shank OD. I invested in R8 collets a while back so no problem there.
 
Am i thinking upside down, or should that be LH threads? or is the saw blade keyed?
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Darren said:
Am i thinking upside down, or should that be LH threads? or is the saw blade keyed?
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That's a good question and one I was going to ask here. I think they should be LH although I drew it RH.
The saw turns clockwise. The pressure on the nut if the saw blade is loaded unscrews the nut.

It's an easy enough experiment to try. Grab a half inch bolt and nut and washer. Slip the washer onto the bolt and run the nut up until it's finger tight on the washer. Then with your left hand hold onto the washer and with you right hand grab the threaded part that would be in the mill chuck and turn it clockwise.

The washer pressing against the nut will unscrew the nut.

And yes the saw blade could also be keyed but that's more complex since then you need a slotted washer that slides along the key and the nut presses against the washer. Can't turn the nut on the keyed area.
(I spent some time thinking about that)
 
Oh and the three saws I have are 1.000" inch ID with a 1/4" key slot. I could insert a short pin at the height of the thinnest saw. I think that's too much work. The torque on a 2" diameter saw with a holder having a 1/2" shank means it would then spin in the TTS holder. @DavidR8 and I saw that happen when I didn't tight it well enough.
 
Darren said:
My previous post, sorry.
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Ah. Those pictures weren't there a moment ago. I should have refreshed the page maybe.

Anyway, with the click of a box on each drawing they are now LH threads. Cutting those with my ELS on the South Bend is a piece of cake. Think it might be easier to make the nut first.
 
I do like your design. Its simple and should work great. I have a test piece chucked up in the lathe that would be perfect for a similar design. An old cv shaft stub. I Annealed it and was testing some new carbide on it. Turned the bell into chips. It would make a good arbor for my smaller saws.
 

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Here's an idea. An 3/16" pin pressed in so 0.115" is showing. For the 1/8" and thicker saws no washer is needed. For the 1/16" blade a 1/16" washer with a slot is also required. Granted the pin is round and the slot in the saw is square and 0.25" wide but only extends into the blade 0.125".

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you could drill that hole, and then mill a square keyway to the shoulder. The hole you show would provide the needed relief at the shoulder for the key. Or, look at the one i posted and see how they did the relief with two smaller radial holes .
 
Interesting timing. Earlier tonite I went on a search for vids on the subject.

Artisan Makes:
Inheritance Machining:
Blondihacks:
Joe Pie:

I kind of like Joe Pie's version.
 
Our own @Everett also did a video (before he went full Amish! ;) ):


I also liked the low-profile nut design on the one from Woods Creek:


Craig
 
The quick model I just did in my head says that a screw or cap on the bottom should be RH thread. A collar sleeve from the back should be LH. But you could always flip the blade and run the mill in reverse.
 
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