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Roll pin punches

PeterT

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Premium Member

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Those look identical to the roll pin punch set I have been using for 20+yrs. Roll pin only.
Todd T.
 
I learned this the hard way when removing old and installing 100 new pins in some parts once. The key is the end of the punch; the ball/dome inside should set inside the pin such that it doesn't mushroom the pin when pounding out. And obviously the diameter of the punch should be =< the pin diameter. You can get them out with a regular punch or even an awl in a pinch...until you can't. I've had a few that mushroomed inside hubs and had to be drilled out. So yes, roll pin punches are the right tool for the job if you are doing a lot of of pins. This pic of the end of the punch illustrates how they are different...
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@CalgaryPT : You can assist me “punching” a bunch of “should knows” in the head. Have gone through many sets of these: “oh sorry sharpened it to make a centre punch” or “why the ball end, mashed over when I tried to drive the piece out?” Or “ just ground it off as it slipped off the taper pin” (that of course was being driven the wrong way)........ugh!
 
@CalgaryPT : You can assist me “punching” a bunch of “should knows” in the head. Have gone through many sets of these: “oh sorry sharpened it to make a centre punch” or “why the ball end, mashed over when I tried to drive the piece out?” Or “ just ground it off as it slipped off the taper pin” (that of course was being driven the wrong way)........ugh!
Let's not get competitive...my mistakes outshine most. Until you accidentally leave a socket wrench inside a hydraulic reservoir you just built and then weld it all up like I did once, you're a genius compared to me :p

I'll never forget that look on my friend's face when we couldn't find the wrench. He looked at the finished tank (my TIG welds were pretty good that day), then looked at me and said, "Hey Pete...please tell me you didn't...".

But I did.
 
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