• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Request for turned aluminum handles (Calgary)

J

jules

Brand New Member
Hello,
I am a newly registered member and am hoping someone is willing to assist me with parts for a project.
I need 2 aluminum handles turned to match existing handles on a vintage table soccer game.
I do have handles that can be used as a template/pattern.

Generally, the handles are 10cm long and 3.5cm wide at max point. They are center drilled to fit on reverse threaded, 15cm rods.
I've attached a pic of the handle profile:
file-4-1.jpeg
I don't have access to a lathe am hoping that someone local in Calgary is willing to assist or offer any suggestions.

Thanks for any assistance!

Jules
 
That handle looks more like a casting project than a machining project. Once a casting was made it could be drilled and threaded with a left hand tap. There are a few members on this forum that dabble in sand casting aluminium.
 
Could be cast in Zink rather than aluminium. Only 420 C (788 F) required v.s. 660 C (1220 F) for aluminium.
 
Last edited:
I took your screen image, roughly scaled, drew an outline & made 3D CAD solid model. Its not exact of course but just gives an idea of reverse engineering. If someone has CNC lathe capability, guessing they could do something similar. Whether that met your price expectations would have to be discussed obviously. I would turn it so the thread end was pointing out from the chuck so the hole could be drilled & tapped. If its a funky metric thread a tap may have to be sourced.

The part could also be made on manual machine but would involve some time. The contour would probably have to be cut in x,y steps from pre-dimensioned drawing & blended with file. The semi-rounds would probably be best turned with a ground form tool. Aluminum can be clear anodized but more $ and may not have the matching look.

Another option since you have an original is to make a female mold from the original using a semi flexible molding rubber. Then cast a replicate from a pour-in hard urethane. Its not metal but they have all kinds of fine metal fillers these days or you could do a decent job with paint & even give it a weathered antique appearance. This link shows some of the typical products & methodology but there are other vendors.
https://www.smooth-on.com/
 

Attachments

  • SNAG-9-19-2019 0003.jpg
    SNAG-9-19-2019 0003.jpg
    61.4 KB · Views: 0
  • SNAG-9-19-2019 0004.jpg
    SNAG-9-19-2019 0004.jpg
    14.5 KB · Views: 0
  • SNAG-9-19-2019 0005.jpg
    SNAG-9-19-2019 0005.jpg
    18.1 KB · Views: 0
  • SNAG-9-19-2019 0007.jpg
    SNAG-9-19-2019 0007.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 0
  • SNAG-9-19-2019 0006.jpg
    SNAG-9-19-2019 0006.jpg
    15.1 KB · Views: 0
  • SNAG-9-19-2019 0008.jpg
    SNAG-9-19-2019 0008.jpg
    17 KB · Views: 0
Is there a place in Calgary to get some zinc ingots or melting scraps?
I picked up this melting pot at Protospace the other day it needs the temp controller and power source to pull in the contactor .

A435C10D-C880-432E-BA60-4F7A95985E20.jpeg
4677D434-22EB-4F05-9F1F-F58891E16914.jpeg


It says 1000 degrees f so it should be good for lead, zinc, and Babbitt or that’s what I’m hoping I need to find a plug for the separate control unit to connect the 120 v.

8EA8F37F-D60C-4351-AC8C-E2FFA28F575A.jpeg


That plug there, strange looking beast! The other is where the plug for the thermal couple goes.

B1E730C1-7385-4C1A-8179-AD78AD71C125.jpeg


Here it is jury rigged and the contact pulls in as it should. So first test I shut it down at 520 degrees f till I can build a temp control unit. I have a pid and the ss switch the k type thermalcouple is in it but I am not sure what wire to use for it resistance wise to go to the pid control.
 
Last edited:
Tom O said:
Is there a place in Calgar

I have a pid and the ss switch the k type thermalcouple is in it but I am not sure what wire to use for it resistance wise to go to the pid control.
Click to expand...

I don’t understand what you’re asking. What resistance?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Zinc is about $1.20/lb when bought by the ton.
I did manage to talk the foundry in Delbourne into selling me a couple of 20lb ingots at $1.50/lb but that was about 15 years ago.
Apparently old carburetor bodies are zinc, but they are getting hard to find.
 
I’ve never played with thermalcouples before but If it gets the + or - signal by resistance of the sender at the heat source then the wire will add to the reading I would think. I have some telephone wire I’m going to try. I was just wondering if it was a specialty type wire.
 
Most wheel weights are zink these days. Can probable get a bucket load from your local tire shop for free or the price of a coffee.
 
You are supposed to run the thermocouple wire all the way to the controller. Using some copper wire to extend it will sort of work. The reading you will get is the temperature difference between the hot and cold ends of the thermocouple wire. A long as the junction with the copper wire is at the same temperature as the controller I think is should be ok.

Thermocouples create a small voltage that your controller measures. There is very little current so the resistance of the wires really has no impact.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Back
Top