Repair a very old vertical drilling machine

[a smile]

Some time ago, I was exhausted by Amazon, and finally began to normal. Now I began to return to the status of iron filings flying.

A drill machine acquired about 3 years ago, finally had time to start renovating. Edge to repair the process on the edge, I don't know whether can perfect repair, also hope to get experienced support, thank you for the first -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

This is the original look

The workbench was badly damaged

The motor was tested to be serviceable, but the gearbox was apparently broken

I hope it can be restored, and it must be beautiful. So dismantling it is a necessary process.

The lifting arm is apparently out of service, temporary repairs will allow it to complete the lifting function - May 14, 2023

Let's break it down into some big parts

Clean and polish the base

The process of dismantling the gearbox in between

Buy putty, paint, and airbrush in advance,
Clean and clean the gear box after disassembling (it will be updated continuously as of today)

 

[140mower]

Glad to see you back posting again....
Looks like a good start on what appears to be a pretty stout drill press. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

 

[Susquatch]

Welcome back @a smile! Glad to hear you survived Amazon! Please do tell us about your experience there!

I think a drill press was one of the first rebuilds I ever did some 55 odd years ago. It's a floor stand belt drive model and I still use it. In fact, I just added wixie laser cross hairs!

But I don't paint. I hate painting. So nothing I do ever gets painted. In most cases, that means it still looks original, which is often an advantage too.

 

[Ironman]

I have the exact same Nider NI64 drill. It is a wonderful drill. I have cut a gear after the lowest speed gear lost 3 teeth. When I had the head apart for the gear cutting I found I could understand the Swede's logic with the dry gearbox but all the bearings were open as well. I replaced the bearing with new sealed ball bearings. I have more info and parts schematic also.
Is it 3 phase?

 

[Tom Kitta]

Looks like a Taiwan copy of Swedish drill press - two speed motor is the main thing to worry about as it is next to impossible to replace.

Good job fixing it up!

 

[a smile]

Glad to see you back posting again....
Looks like a good start on what appears to be a pretty stout drill press. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

I will continue to finish it because I have been short of drill press. I use the DECKEL-FP3 when I need to punch a hole. It's easier to use a drill press.

 

[a smile]

Welcome back @a smile! Glad to hear you survived Amazon! Please do tell us about your experience there!

I think a drill press was one of the first rebuilds I ever did some 55 odd years ago. It's a floor stand belt drive model and I still use it. In fact, I just added wixie laser cross hairs!

But I don't paint. I hate painting. So nothing I do ever gets painted. In most cases, that means it still looks original, which is often an advantage too.

I'm sorry to tell you that I just solved some rules of Amazon and some brand trademark problems, but the product still hasn't been sold. Although I reduced the price, there is still no sales record. I doubt that Amazon is in the bidding advertising ranking. I will not compete for advertising. I hope to accumulate customers by relying on reliable design and good reputation. Let it go for a while. I still care about my hobby.

The drill press is geared. I am not sure if the gear change system can still be used. I will try my best to restore its main function and make it more convenient to use. The cross 3 cursor is a very useful feature that I would love to add.

In my understanding, the drilling machine mainly carries out some drilling operations with low requirements, and cannot complete high-precision positioning drilling, and the drilling machine with relatively high requirements on the aperture cannot be expected.

Now I rely on SW software, which can help complete some data calculation. Manual drawing is a test of skills and experience -----

 

[a smile]

I have the exact same Nider NI64 drill. It is a wonderful drill. I have cut a gear after the lowest speed gear lost 3 teeth. When I had the head apart for the gear cutting I found I could understand the Swede's logic with the dry gearbox but all the bearings were open as well. I replaced the bearing with new sealed ball bearings. I have more info and parts schematic also.
Is it 3 phase?

Your drawings are exactly what I desperately need ----- I would appreciate your generosity if you could share them.

I was worried that I would have to spend more time trying to put it together in order in the post-assembly, which is a frustrating process, thank you in advance

 

[a smile]

Glad to see you back posting again....
Looks like a good start on what appears to be a pretty stout drill press. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

This is my home （https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com）---- I may travel from time to time, but I'll come back to a place I can count on. During this period, the wooden flooring was also laid on the ground of the yard. The green grass you see is the result of the work half a month ago.

I like green, trees, lawns, even if it is overgrown ----

 

[a smile]

 

[a smile]

All parts of transmission

I would like to know what is the main function of the broken thread part of the spline rod?

 

[Ironman]

for a smile, Here you are.
Boise Crane and Wilton Strand are two companies that marketed the Nider in the US. The mashed up threaded end of the splined shaft would have been to attach the MT3 taper socket.

 

[a smile]

for a smile, Here you are.
Boise Crane and Wilton Strand are two companies that marketed the Nider in the US. The mashed up threaded end of the splined shaft would have been to attach the MT3 taper socket.

Here. Thank you so much for your generosity

 

[a smile]

Today, it was found that the spindle core has been very badly damaged. After inquiry found very expensive (unreasonable), or own repair it!

Welded flat tail limit

Lathe correction

result

 

[a smile]

Clamp the table into the lathe with a flat cut

Clean the bottom of the pit with a drill

It ended in a way I didn't expect, and the damage was so bad, I was going to faint with tears

 

[Bandit]

Glad to see you back also.
Have others been hammering on the end of the one shaft to remove the morse tapers? Are you ment to snap the quill back up to remove them? I always liked the slot for the wedge myself.
Wow on the table! Never seen one that bad! ( I know, sheltered life). Not sure if I would heat the whole thing and fill with brazing rod or bolt another piece of plate on it and machine flat, would machine flat after brazing anyway.

 

[Tom O]

Maybe machine it down a bit and braze some plate to it?

 

[Susquatch]

It ended in a way I didn't expect, and the damage was so bad, I was going to faint with tears

I'd just fill the holes with epoxy resurface again on the lathe, and then add a new plate on top of the old one, cut the slots from the back, resurface one more time, and call it done.

 

[a smile]

I'd just fill the holes with epoxy resurface again on the lathe, and then add a new plate on top of the old one, cut the slots from the back, resurface one more time, and call it done.

The plan is to use cast glue to repair the damage, and then lathe it to maintain its color and strength. But I still want to see a picture of your restored workbench, okay?

 

[a smile]

Glad to see you back also.
Have others been hammering on the end of the one shaft to remove the morse tapers? Are you ment to snap the quill back up to remove them? I always liked the slot for the wedge myself.
Wow on the table! Never seen one that bad! ( I know, sheltered life). Not sure if I would heat the whole thing and fill with brazing rod or bolt another piece of plate on it and machine flat, would machine flat after brazing anyway.

I have never used this kind of drill press before and do not know the principle of its up and down bit, but I have a preliminary scheme; Now the tail end of the spline rod is seriously damaged, ready to be cut off, re-welded, processed thread, and then increase the spring to suspend it, need to remove the taper handle to press down to exit, do not know whether it is feasible, need to be tested after installation