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Removing a Mt1 taper from a No3 jacobs chuck

C

calgaryguy

Chris
Picked up a 17/32 Jacobs chuck (seller scammed me into thinking it was a 3/4") for $50.

It has what I think is an mt1 taper in it right now. I've tried heating the chuck with map gas torch and then trying to twist/pull the taper out, but havent gone very far as I dont want to damage the chuck.

There is no place to use chuck removal wedges.

Thoughts on how I might get this Mt1 taper out?

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YYCHM said:
I just checked my Jacobs chuck and the taper hole is blind. Wedges are required to remove the taper.
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I guess, there are quite a few variations. I switched arbors on my ball bearing Jacobs a couple days ago. Removed the old one with the wedges, and noticed that the chuck had a through hole.
 
This method shows a hydraulic press pushing on the end with a pin. Maybe some penetrating miracle juice in the joint would help.

How To: Remove a Jacobs chuck arbor

I recently bought a Jacobs #18N 3/4" chuck with a #4 Morse Taper arbor. For my application I'll need to use the chuck with both the existing #4 Morse Taper arbor and a 3/4" straight shank arbor. Here's the chuck when I bought it with a #4 Morse Taper arbor installed. The smaller chuck to the...
www.garagejournal.com www.garagejournal.com
 
Mounted and dismounted many a chucks, all I have seen or serviced was pressed out from the center, There should be a hole to slip in a small dowel or shoulder bolt or pin or what ever, Press away.
 
Proxule said:
Mounted and dismounted many a chucks, all I have seen or serviced was pressed out from the center, There should be a hole to slip in a small dowel or shoulder bolt or pin or what ever, Press away.
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There was no hole. I had to drill one. I'll post pics of the 'after' once the chuck comes out of its evaporust bath tomorrow

This is a 'old' Jacobs No3 chuck I think, marked 'made in Sheffield England' - maybe its age makes it different.
 
calgaryguy said:
@RobinHood I drilled a 5/16" hole in the bottom of the chuck and the taper popped out with a couple of hits with a hammer and a brass punch after 30 seconds of map gas pre-heat. Thanks!

I'll post a pic later as I immediately put the chuck in an evaporust bath.
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Consider electrolysis next time. Its amazing!
 
Proxule said:
Consider electrolysis next time. Its amazing!
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I've been pretty happy with Evaporust tbh. Its simple, I dont worry about gas in the shop, no charger plugged in, etc. Warming the evaporust a bit really makes it work well.

I have considered electrolysis for larger parts/projects. I havent had a need yet however.
 
calgaryguy said:
I've been pretty happy with Evaporust tbh. Its simple, I dont worry about gas in the shop, no charger plugged in, etc. Warming the evaporust a bit really makes it work well.

I have considered electrolysis for larger parts/projects. I havent had a need yet however.
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Fair enough, It is indeed more work. But the result and speed is not comparable. 25L pail of water takes about half a cup more or less of washing soda, And a sacrificial anode. ( steel ). The real beauty is the speed it does the cleaning at. And that the slightly caustic solution strips grease oil paint etc etc.

If you need to buy the charger and other supporting equipment, Evaporust is the way to go. Especially if its small.

Just my 2 cents.
gluck
 
calgaryguy said:
I've been pretty happy with Evaporust tbh. Its simple, I dont worry about gas in the shop, no charger plugged in, etc. Warming the evaporust a bit really makes it work well.

I have considered electrolysis for larger parts/projects. I havent had a need yet however.
Click to expand...
I bought a 20 litre pail. I expect to be dead before I need to replace it and I can just drop a part in the pail as opposed to finding a tub the right size, covering the part and then funneling it back into the container when done. 200 bucks at Tenaquip with free Canada Post shipping. About the same price as buying 4 litre jugs at PA but much handier.
 
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